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Too high plate voltage on preamp tube

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  • #16
    Depends on how exactly you are making that conversion and where you are puting things. The difference between the channels on a 5f6a amounts to one .0001uf coupling cap on the bright channel. Each channel uses half a triode and they share two halves of a triode after joining. I'd have to see a schematic of how you are wiring things up to tell you how what was posted would affect things. What you want to do is make sure that .0001 cap on your bright channel occurs before you combine the channels; i.e. before the wire that is added in the mission mod or moved in the Torres mod.

    As for using a solid state rectifier, a few things are going to happen. Your b+ will go up all through the amp. Since 6v6s are already over spec in a DR, I'd definitely NOT do that with 6v6s, it may be ok with 6L6s but then you are hitting that impedance mismatch in the primary of the OT again...... Also, your b+ will come on FAST and spike when it comes on, which can be a problem if you have any weak components, its likely to stress them and may cause failure, maybe catastrophic failure. This is especially true on a DR if you are using the stock filter cap configuration (even with brand new caps) because they wire 2 16uf caps in PARALLEL, which gives you 32uf BUT DOESNT double the voltage handling capacity. If you are using 500v caps, and even moreso with lower voltage caps, this can definitely over stress the caps and cause catastrophic failure, taking tubes and output transformer along for the ride. If you MUST install a solid state recto in a DR, change the wiring on the first two filter caps to the standard higher wattage two-caps-in-series with 220k resistors across both to even up the voltage handling. If you use two 80uf or 100uf caps, this gives you 40uf or 50uf but the voltage handling of both caps adds, so you would get 800v handling capacity out of two 400v caps, which should be more than enough.

    A GZ34 ramps up slow, which protects components, and many prefer the sound (softer, more 'bloom') of the tube rectifier. If you change your filter cap circuit to two 100uf caps in series, you can still switch back to the GZ34 (you'll have to rebias). You want to be careful how much capacitance you have in the first section after a tube rectifier, but 50uf is fine for a GZ34 (though it might be too much for other rectifier tubes).

    Overall, my recommedation would be to NOT put a solid state recto in a DR, but if you just have to have one, you should definitely do the change I mentioned above or you are asking for trouble.

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    • #17
      Again on ss rectifier + 6L6's

      Thanks wizard,
      I have often read about this "ss recto + 6L6 mod" in DR's, but this is the first time that I read such caveats.

      One more (last?) question:
      since I'll want to try ss recto + 6L6 a little once in a while, what should I do when revert back to stock 5U4GB + 6V6's?
      May I leave the first two filters in series, or should I rewire them in parallel?
      Carlo Pipitone

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      • #18
        If you wire them in series, leave them that way its better all the way around. Thats assuming you replace the little stock 16uf caps with 80uf or 100uf caps. Dont even try parallel with the stock caps.

        The stock rectifier tube is a GZ34 I'd use that. If you use another rectifier tube, it may 1) Not be able to handle the first stage capacitance 2) Draw too much current from the heater circuit (5U4 draws more current than a GZ34, your transformer may not like that, it also cant handle as high of a first stage capacitance as a GZ34) 3) ramp up differently than the GZ34.

        Rectifier tubes may or may NOT be interchangable depending on the amp (first stage capacitance, whether the heater can supply the current required). A GZ34 tube is a good tube for that amp, stick with it. If for whatever reason you want to lower the B+, do it with a bigger resistor.

        Again, I'd recommend against a solid state rectifier in that amp. People may do it, but some people also can't seem to live if they dont overclock the crap out of their computers, which makes them unstable and can cause major issues, including catastrophic failure that takes expensive components to the graveyard. I much prefer stability and maintenance free performance to a money pit experiment.

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        • #19
          wizard,
          the stock rectifier in my pull-boost SF Deluxe Reverb is a 5U4GB.
          Does this affect in any aspect your comment above?
          Carlo Pipitone

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          • #20
            If its stock (i.e. the tube chart lists that) then use it, the tranny will be able to supply the required heater current. What year is it? Early 70's and before were GZ34s, not sure what year they changed.

            Also in that case, I would go with 80uf caps in series in the first filter stage; 2x100uf may be a bit much for that rectifier tube.

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            • #21
              It's a '77 SFDR. Currently it has a Sovtek recto, but I also have a couple NOS.
              Thanks for all the advice.
              Carlo Pipitone

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              • #22
                A rectifier tube is a rectifier tube, your signal doesnt pass through it I dont think I'd throw down for NoS but if you already have them by all means use them. I've heard Mullard rectifiers last basically forever, but I've never owned one.

                Is your '77 an ultra-linear version? Not sure when/if they went that way with DRs but it would be interesting. What is the rated wattage listed on the back panel?

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                • #23
                  SF Deluxe Reverbs did not went ultralinear. The rated wattage is 20W (but I believe it is 22W actually).
                  Carlo Pipitone

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