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Bass Master XM100 Type:100B

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  • redkurn
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dude View Post
    Yes. I saw that page, too. Sadly, all of the crosses are also discontinued.

    If you end up having to buy the eBay ones and they are legit, you can use one and put the other 4 back on eBay for 10 bucks each. Or, contact the seller and see if he will sell you just one.
    So this one is a no go?
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...SBPZK7Bg%3D%3D

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dude
    replied
    Yes. I saw that page, too. Sadly, all of the crosses are also discontinued.

    If you end up having to buy the eBay ones and they are legit, you can use one and put the other 4 back on eBay for 10 bucks each. Or, contact the seller and see if he will sell you just one.

    Leave a comment:


  • redkurn
    replied
    I might not have a choice and almost $30 ouch!
    Found this...
    https://alltransistors.com/transisto...ansistor=40962
    https://alltransistors.com/crsearch....400&caps=TO218

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...SBPZK7Bg%3D%3D

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dude
    replied
    I've done a bit of searching and came up with nothing. Darlingtons are a bit tougher to cross. I did find this, and they look like the real deal, are sold by a US seller, and say "old stock". Anything that says "new" is likely fake since the part is discontinued. But, buy at your own risk. I don't usually recommend buying parts from eBay, but you may not have a choice.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorola-MJ...MAAOSwyhVfVSfF

    Leave a comment:


  • redkurn
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dude View Post
    No! One is a PNP and the other is a NPN. They cannot be interchanged. You can't use 2 of the same part. There will be smoke.
    I completely missed that... doh!
    That's the one I was having a hard time finding a sub for, yorkville doesn';t list it and the local auth dealer isn't auth anymore.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dude
    replied
    No! One is a PNP and the other is a NPN. They cannot be interchanged. You can't use 2 of the same part. There will be smoke.

    Leave a comment:


  • redkurn
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dude View Post
    I only had time for a quick onceover, so I could have missed it. I don't see a sub for the MJH11018.
    I couldn't find one other that the MJH11017G, they are on the datasheet and appear to be the same.
    https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mjh11017-d.pdf

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dude
    replied
    I only had time for a quick onceover, so I could have missed it. I don't see a sub for the MJH11018.

    Leave a comment:


  • redkurn
    replied
    I think the one here is pushing the LED more, but I think I have seen some there.
    How does my parts list look? I can't order until I know they are right. XD

    Leave a comment:


  • Enzo
    replied
    REgular old screw in 100 watt bulbs for your table lamp seem to be gone, but the other incandescents I mentioned are still around. And some specialty lamps, like the large globe 40 or 60 watts like for over a bathroom vanity are out there.

    Leave a comment:


  • Randall
    replied
    Does Home Depot even sell incandescent bulbs these days? I thought they were phased out a while ago. I bought a coated 100 watt industrial bulb on line when I built my light bulb limiter years ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • Enzo
    replied
    Remember the purpose of the bulb limiter. it isn't for operating the amp, it is for troubleshooting fuse-blowing amps. I'd recommend a 60 watt bulb for general work. Others may have other ideas. A 100 watt tube amp probably draws less than 50 watts at idle.

    Your amp might produce a certain power and you might calculate what the mains drw might be, but the bulb is used when the amp is to be idling, not when it is driving speakers.

    Leave a comment:


  • redkurn
    replied
    Originally posted by Enzo View Post
    REmember to use an incandescent bulb. Regular bulbs are harder to find, but a "special duty" bulb is good also, Liek "Appliance" bulbs or "rough service" bulbs. Hell, even heat lamps.
    Will do, I'll make sure to have a clerk help find a proper bulb.
    Since this is a 100w amp, I figure a 120w+ bulb should be safe and good for almost any use, some people say match it to the input watts and others say make sure it's more... It doesn't show how many watts it uses, I'm sure I could math it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Enzo
    replied
    REmember to use an incandescent bulb. Regular bulbs are harder to find, but a "special duty" bulb is good also, Liek "Appliance" bulbs or "rough service" bulbs. Hell, even heat lamps.

    Leave a comment:


  • redkurn
    replied
    Thanks to you guys helping, I may have found the parts that will substitute, I'm basing this on the spec sheet and one part Yorkville actually had as a sub on their website.
    Please take a look before I order and let me know if I have made a mistake or if I am good to go, next thing is a trip to Home Depot to get parts for a Dim Bulb Tester.

    https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=b7a77ef8c9

    Leave a comment:

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