Due to environmental laws, lead content now matters for manufacturers. G on the end of a part number usually just means "green" for lead free. SOme use "PBF. Pb means lead and F for free. An MJ15024 and an MJ15024G are the same part, at least as far as you are concerned.
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Bass Master XM100 Type:100B
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If it ends up you can't find generic, those parts are all still available through Yorkville dealers. Do you have one local that is regularly shipping product from yorkville? Prices are not bad.
You can look in the service manual for the yorkville part #'s and check pricing here: https://www.yorkville.com/support/parts_searchOriginally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostTry this source: https://www.findchips.com/
It queries all of the big parts houses.
Originally posted by Enzo View PostDue to environmental laws, lead content now matters for manufacturers. G on the end of a part number usually just means "green" for lead free. SOme use "PBF. Pb means lead and F for free. An MJ15024 and an MJ15024G are the same part, at least as far as you are concerned.
Originally posted by g1 View PostIf it ends up you can't find generic, those parts are all still available through Yorkville dealers. Do you have one local that is regularly shipping product from yorkville? Prices are not bad.
You can look in the service manual for the yorkville part #'s and check pricing here: https://www.yorkville.com/support/parts_search
Using a Joyo Zombie through a 8 ohm (mono) / 16 Ohm (stereo) cab I built from a set of old stereo speakers at the moment.
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Thanks to you guys helping, I may have found the parts that will substitute, I'm basing this on the spec sheet and one part Yorkville actually had as a sub on their website.
Please take a look before I order and let me know if I have made a mistake or if I am good to go, next thing is a trip to Home Depot to get parts for a Dim Bulb Tester.
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=b7a77ef8c9
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REmember to use an incandescent bulb. Regular bulbs are harder to find, but a "special duty" bulb is good also, Liek "Appliance" bulbs or "rough service" bulbs. Hell, even heat lamps.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostREmember to use an incandescent bulb. Regular bulbs are harder to find, but a "special duty" bulb is good also, Liek "Appliance" bulbs or "rough service" bulbs. Hell, even heat lamps.
Since this is a 100w amp, I figure a 120w+ bulb should be safe and good for almost any use, some people say match it to the input watts and others say make sure it's more... It doesn't show how many watts it uses, I'm sure I could math it.
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Remember the purpose of the bulb limiter. it isn't for operating the amp, it is for troubleshooting fuse-blowing amps. I'd recommend a 60 watt bulb for general work. Others may have other ideas. A 100 watt tube amp probably draws less than 50 watts at idle.
Your amp might produce a certain power and you might calculate what the mains drw might be, but the bulb is used when the amp is to be idling, not when it is driving speakers.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Does Home Depot even sell incandescent bulbs these days? I thought they were phased out a while ago. I bought a coated 100 watt industrial bulb on line when I built my light bulb limiter years ago.It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....
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REgular old screw in 100 watt bulbs for your table lamp seem to be gone, but the other incandescents I mentioned are still around. And some specialty lamps, like the large globe 40 or 60 watts like for over a bathroom vanity are out there.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostI only had time for a quick onceover, so I could have missed it. I don't see a sub for the MJH11018.
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mjh11017-d.pdf
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostNo! One is a PNP and the other is a NPN. They cannot be interchanged. You can't use 2 of the same part. There will be smoke.
That's the one I was having a hard time finding a sub for, yorkville doesn';t list it and the local auth dealer isn't auth anymore.
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I've done a bit of searching and came up with nothing. Darlingtons are a bit tougher to cross. I did find this, and they look like the real deal, are sold by a US seller, and say "old stock". Anything that says "new" is likely fake since the part is discontinued. But, buy at your own risk. I don't usually recommend buying parts from eBay, but you may not have a choice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorola-MJ...MAAOSwyhVfVSfF"I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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