Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

chassis solder

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • chassis solder

    What is a good inexpensive heavier gauge solder to use for chassis soldering so I don't have to use 16" of my nice thin Kester spool every time I make a ground?
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

  • #2
    Originally posted by Randall View Post
    What is a good inexpensive heavier gauge solder to use for chassis soldering so I don't have to use 16" of my nice thin Kester spool every time I make a ground?
    I've used 0.062" dia solder for that. If I need it, I'll break out a 100W American Beauty iron, or if really needing heat, a 300W American Beauty iron. I have been able to solder with my 3/16" wide chiesl tip on my Pace PS80 iron, turned up to 850 or 900 deg.
    Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

    Comment


    • #3
      I always just used my regular. When I buy solder it comes by the pound anyway. Used to be you could buy cheap crappy solder at Radio Shack, but frankly the flux inside was far less effective than the Kester and the solder didn't wet as well. The thin solder melts a little easier, so my poor iron can concentrate on heating the chassis.
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

      Comment


      • #4
        Why are you soldering to chassis? For old times' sake?
        --
        I build and repair guitar amps
        http://amps.monkeymatic.com

        Comment


        • #5
          1.2 mm solder and 100/150W old style soldering iron.
          Big heavy pinky finger sized pure copper tip, the kind which gets cavities if used forn too long, but perfectly acceptable for infrequent use.
          Forget ceramic/long life tips, a large copper mass is your friend.
          Juan Manuel Fahey

          Comment


          • #6
            Solder gun with a piece of #12 guage wire Probably only 2in worth of wire. I keep it short to get the most effect. Works very quickly.
            nosaj
            soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by xtian View Post
              Why are you soldering to chassis? For old times' sake?
              I agree, everybody uses lugs and nut & bolt now. Unless you are talking about re-work of existing solder connections. But 'make a ground' sounds like new builds.
              Originally posted by Enzo
              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


              Comment


              • #8
                I use a 80 watt Weller iron, which works just fine. I just get annoyed when I have feed so much of my thin solder to make a pool. Not "everybody" uses nut and bolt grounds now. I am a solder to chassis type still. Nuts and bolts come loose. Plus, if I am replacing a two prong AC cord on a vintage amp, I am not going to drill a hole or use a transformer lug. But, that's just me.
                It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

                Comment


                • #9
                  And don't forget this is what the famous brass sheet is for in the old Fenders. You can easily solder to the thin brass sheet, which is grounded to the chassis by all the pot nuts.
                  Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Randall View Post
                    Not "everybody" uses nut and bolt grounds now.
                    Sorry if I wasn't clear. I was meaning in manufacturing and what is code. That's why I said 'unless you mean re-work of existing'.

                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X