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Rivera Thirty Twelve (R30) super Hum!

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  • Helmholtz
    replied
    Originally posted by Indyryder02 View Post
    Removed all tubes but V1 and V2 to stay focused.
    With C111, C114 R28 removed. I still have noise on pin 1 of V2. This noise is switched on with Ch 1 and effected by volume of Ch1 .
    If R113 is lifted. The noise goes away. Yet persists in the output audibly. Maybe there’s more than one source?
    the smallest ripple is seen from c111 to R130 but nothing like what’s seen at V2 pin 1 with R113 in place. It’s also not affected by ch 1 controls.
    Maybe I'm misinterpreting but most of your tests don't seem to make sense.
    E.g.:
    - With V3 removed V2B is not heated, so will be dead.
    - Lifting any components after V2B ( e.g. C111) cannot change the hum on V2B pin 1.
    - Lifting R113 disconnects V2B from the power supply.
    But as this makes the noise go away, even though the triode doesn't work anyway, the noise must be coming through R113 i.e. from the B+ on C101.
    Check if you can see the hum on TP4.
    Last edited by Helmholtz; 03-24-2022, 02:39 PM.

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  • Indyryder02
    replied
    Removed all tubes but V1 and V2 to stay focused.
    With C111, C114 R28 removed. I still have noise on pin 1 of V2. This noise is switched on with Ch 1 and affected by volume of Ch1 .
    If R113 is lifted. The noise goes away. Yet persists in the output audibly. Maybe there’s more than one source?
    the smallest ripple is seen from c111 to R130 but nothing like what’s seen at V2 pin 1 with R113 in place. It’s also not affected by ch 1 controls. This one really has me stumped.
    mostly because I’ve been on it too long now and wish I could just Chuck it! Haha
    Last edited by Indyryder02; 03-23-2022, 09:22 PM.

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  • Indyryder02
    replied
    Think I’m in the weeds again. Going to back and retest for noise up front again. Getting different results.

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  • Indyryder02
    replied
    Ok. Lifted the above components and checked ground of C118 (ok).
    no change when probing pin 1 of V2 until finally lifting R113.
    Still have major hum though. Mostly seems affected by channel 1 master volume. Unplugging the connection to the patch loop causes constant hum with no control via master.
    probing from output section back again.. I’m finding noise now all around V4.. very strange. I’m sure this will wind up being something dumb after all this!
    attached a highlighted area of noise currently with R113 removed. Losing my mind. Need to take a break from it for a few. Ugh! Kicking my butt!

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  • Jon Snell
    replied
    Try this;
    Lift C111, has the hum gone? If yes now you know which area it is coming from. If not, lift C114 result?
    If not remove R128, hum gone?
    That would be the simplest way to isolate the problem.

    Check the ground on C118, it connects the signal ground to actual ground. Adding links will not improve but may worsen your symptoms.

    Leave a comment:


  • Enzo
    replied
    It is indeed from 120Hz ripple currents in the filter network, but doesn't have to be a bad cap. I don't know how you tested for ground issues, but certainly a poor ground path can cause this. Do we know that ALL of this model don't have this hum? I lose confidence in the design when I see things like the heater supply simply grounded on one side.

    But they did do the same thing PV does in the preamp, they wired the three 12AX7 in series as 12v, and the three in a string are powered from +/-18v rails, so 36v for three 12v tubes. So if you pull V1 or V2 or V3, all three of them go dark. Well, no, the other two go dark. Actually while it is across all 36v, they do ground the pin 9 of V2, so they are really on two separate 18v rails.

    When you pull V2, you are killing all three tubes. When you pull V1, you kill V1 but only half of V2. I suspect that explains the difference in how fast it fades.

    Heater hum on an AC heated tube would be 60Hz, but it is conceivable if the +18 rail has lost filtration (which would then pass 120Hz ripple) we MIGHT get some heater hum. Not my favorite theory of the crime, but...

    I note the ground (common) for V1 and V2 is isolated and gets connection to system ground through a connection to the input jack board. It appears to get grounded via the input jack sleeve connection to chassis.

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  • g1
    replied
    Maybe. I was thinking about the thing he said about the hum slowly going away after V1 is pulled.

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  • Helmholtz
    replied
    Originally posted by g1 View Post
    Looks like at least the first preamp heaters are DC.
    So you suspect a bad heater filter? Might be a possibility.

    Leave a comment:


  • g1
    replied
    Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post

    Tube or heater hum would not be 120Hz.
    Looks like at least the first preamp heaters are DC.

    Leave a comment:


  • Helmholtz
    replied
    Check especially C101 and C123. Not every new cap is a good cap (might have been stored too long). You can try paralling a good cap of similar value across the existing ones.

    Tube or heater hum would not be 120Hz.

    Leave a comment:


  • Indyryder02
    replied
    That’s what I would have guessed as well.
    C118 along with all other electrolytic replaced with same type and brand Nichicon. No change in hum.
    have swapped all tubes. (Which were all new, checking for cathode to Heater shorts etc. ) nothing found so far.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dude
    replied
    A defective tube can sometimes cause hum. Have you tried swapping out V1 and/or V2?

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  • Jon Snell
    replied
    120HZ or in the UK 100HZ hum is poor smoothing of the DC high voltage supply.
    I would check/change C118 and the rest of them in the circuit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Indyryder02
    replied
    Yes. Probing V2 pin 1. The noise goes away when pulling either V1 or V2. A possible hint. It goes away immediately when pulling V2. But slowly fades away when pulling V1

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  • Helmholtz
    replied
    Does the hum stop when you pull V2 or V1?

    Leave a comment:

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