Pyle blade 6800 amp in protect mode

[shandev]

Good day my Pyleblade amplifier is in protect mode, it's disconnected from everything also I tested all the transistors an they seems to be good with multimeter but u do see that a sm capacitors burned and also a bulge on one cubodial capacitor but it tested good with the multimeter don't know I'd I should take it out and the ic runnin 2 channels looks good but they are small sm capacity that are givin a 0 reqdin in the resistance mode when i test them below are some pics any help please the choke looks burnt but it's not the problem and it isn't burnt out it tested good with the mm and it's not shorting as the coating didn't burnt out just get heated and when I put the probes on continuity qt the output speakers leads no speakers is attached I get a short at 3 leads idk if thay is Nirmal as how the amp us wired out th output is shorted. Thank

lonk to images https://ibb.co/album/4w1pWN

[Enzo]

Bulgimng cap not good.

As to testing, measuring for value is not much of a test, it tells you nothing about leakage or ability to withstand voltage

WHY is it in protect? Is ther DC on the output bus? Is a thermal sensor being tripped? A power up timer not timing out

DO you have the schematic?

[The Dude]

There's a good chance that amplifier IC nearest the burnt components is bad. Since it's unlikely you'll find a schematic for the unit, here's a link to the datasheet for the chip. At least you can see if there are any shorted pins (rails, outputs, etc.)

https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TDA8954.pdf

This is a car audio amp, and you can likely replace it for around a hundred bucks, so I wouldn't waste too much time on it. The IC, if it's bad, other surrounding obviously burnt parts, and your labor on an SMD board (if time is worth anything to you) will rapidly exceed the cost of just replacing the thing.

[shandev]

Bulgimng cap not good.

As to testing, measuring for value is not much of a test, it tells you nothing about leakage or ability to withstand voltage

WHY is it in protect? Is ther DC on the output bus? Is a thermal sensor being tripped? A power up timer not timing out

DO you have the schematic?

do not have a schematic but what happened to it i believe is someone wired like 3 speakers to one channel and obviously the resistance dropped cassue its wired in parallel and the large current possibly burnt out the channel so maybe u cand say what mabe at flat there better I am thinking to remove the dead sm caps an resistors

[shandev]

[QUOTE=The Dude;n960036]There's a good chance that amplifier IC nearest the burnt components is bad. Since it's unlikely you'll find a schematic for the unit, here's a link to the datasheet for the chip. At least you can see if there are any shorted pins (rails, outputs, etc.)

https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TDA8954.pdf

This is a car audio amp, and you can likely replace it for around a hundred bucks, so I wouldn't waste too much time on it. The IC, if it's bad, other surrounding obviously burnt parts, and your labor on an SMD board (if time is worth anything to you) will rapidly exceed the cost of just replacing the thing. [/QUOTE correct thanks

[Jon Snell]

Check to see if pin 1 of the TDA is oscillating. You will need your oscilloscope to check it.