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Older Traynor YCV40 Master Mod.....again

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  • Older Traynor YCV40 Master Mod.....again

    For any of you that want to know and others searching the boards in the future..... Some people complain about how the reverb control and master volume (Presence) react to each other after the mod is done. There is a way to fix this. It requires to jumpers (wires), 2 trace cuts on the board and a .1uf 63v capacitor. The mod moves the reverb signal from going through the master (presence) pot and sends it through the Power Amp in, OP amp (IC) input to blend correctly? with the amp signal. It also changes the feed signal to be reverberated, by coming from the Pre Amp out, OP amp (IC) output. This mod is for the older YCV40's 2000 to 2005? The reverb now sounds very lush and Fen**ry and is no longer tied to the master volume. WARNING ! I am not an expert, just a hobbist sharing my experiences. If someone can explain better than me, please chime in. I am not responsible for what may happen to your amp ! I have made these changes to my amp and have logged several hours playing time on it with no ill effects, not syaing these changes are risky...I just don't know what you may do to your amp....they have worked fine for me. Attached are the scehmatics and layouts. Also adding a .22uf cap to the .33uf cap already there @ C27 made the OD channel a home run for me....very British sounding !



    In the layout drawing, the portion circled is the regular master volume mod changes, made by most. The rest is the reverb control mod. The red circles with red lines in them indicate where to cut the traces on the circuit board. On the schematic these are indicated with a red " X". Instead of a 10k resistor in the master mod, you can use a pot instead, to retain the Presence control....if desired.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Originally posted by cejay825 View Post
    It requires... ...a .1uf 63v capacitor.
    Hi can you clarify which side is the positive for the cap I'm assuming it's an electrolytic cos of the 64v. on the layout and schematic?
    Last edited by Boss; 09-13-2019, 08:38 AM. Reason: No need for giant bold text. No need to quote the entire OP.

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    • #3
      It's used as a coupling cap, so just use a film, ceramic, whatever. No reason to use an electrolytic.
      "Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man."

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      • #4
        You mean the cap he has added, .1uF 63V ?
        It is not electrolytic. Any .1uF of 63V or higher voltage rating will do.
        "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

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        • #5
          Thanks guys good helps a lot.

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          • #6
            Yes, it was a general film cap...run of the mill small, square, yellow Kemet .1uf 63v

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            • #7
              How would I wire the pot for presence pins 1&3 or 1&2 and in which order does it matter? I assume it's a 10k pot right?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cejay825 View Post
                Also adding a .22uf cap to the .33uf cap already there @ C27 made the OD channel a home run for me....very British sounding.
                Hi is that series or parallel?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Danny1m View Post
                  Hi is that series or parallel?
                  Could I add the c27 cap on a switch to get both styles of preamp or will that not work for hot switching i.e. damage my tubes? Any help would be much appreciated guys I'm pretty good with an iron made a few pedals and such been wiring guitars for years but this is my first go at modding an amp got my parts on order arriving tomorrow in think so just making sure I know everything I need to to make sure I don't brick my amp sorry should have quoted cejay835

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by cejay825 View Post
                    Also adding a .22uf cap to the .33uf cap already there @ C27 made the OD channel a home run for me....very British sounding !


                    .

                    Could I add the c27 cap on a switch to get both styles of preamp or will that not work for hot switching i.e. damage my tubes? Any help would be much appreciated guys I'm pretty good with an iron made a few pedals and such been wiring guitars for years but this is my first go at modding an amp got my parts on order arriving tomorrow in think so just making sure I know everything I need to to make sure I don't brick my amp

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Danny1m View Post
                      Could I add the c27 cap on a switch to get both styles of preamp or will that not work for hot switching i.e. damage my tubes? Any help would be much appreciated guys I'm pretty good with an iron made a few pedals and such been wiring guitars for years but this is my first go at modding an amp got my parts on order arriving tomorrow in think so just making sure I know everything I need to to make sure I don't brick my amp
                      I did it it went ok no problems so far. Going to give it a proper outing on Friday see what happens.
                      The master conversation is very smooth on the master knob you get alot more reverb on offer too just wondering if I can make the reverb switchable too as that would be great for the gain channel maybe I could add it to the boost switch and cut that from the switcher as I don't use the boost in the amp for anything it's too much of a jump in volume for me. Can anyone show me how to do this.

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