Where would be the best place to insert a reverb circuit into a tweed tremolux 5G9?

[Dandrix]

Tell what you think? I could add the extra filter cap to the dog house? It looks like I could squeeze them all in there seeing the F&T’s are so small. Maybe, locate the One 5.1k/3watt resister at B3 Cap and the 5.1k top side on the board ( maybe next to biasing section)?

[Chuck H]

I know you are well along with this, but have you ever used a stand alone Fender tube reverb unit (6G15) into the amp input? With these older amp designs most players prefer that configuration and it also gives you a little boost.

Agree! But it's definitely more of a "host amp is run clean" kind of thing.?. Dandrix has indicated that he's a rocker and so I assume he's crunching it up. On board is a little better for that. And, of course, my recommendation of a dedicated post distortion reverb amp is best But that's bee's knees. I built one for a customer and "I" don't even have one. But I used it with my own rig (because that what I have, right?) before putting my stamp on it and sending it out. Always best to incorporate reverb as late in the circuit as possible if you intend to clip anything. JM2C

[olddawg]

I know you are well along with this, but have you ever used a stand alone Fender tube reverb unit (6G15) into the amp input? With these older amp designs most players prefer that configuration and it also gives you a little boost.

[Chuck H]

all right chuck, i am all in. were do you need them located? did you also need the preamp tubes rewired?

Even worse But it's not going to be nearly as bad as it could be There's going to be some board components that need to be shifted in order to accommodate a layout I have confidence in. But seeing how you're wired now I think it'll be easy enough once you see what I'm putting together. The up side is that I've done this a few times (understatement) and you shouldn't have much (if any) troubleshooting to do. And fewer compromises like HF bleed caps to mitigate instabilities, etc. You'll see what's up before the end of tomorrow as far as locations and what needs to be moved. It's all about having the signal chain go in one direction without being in close proximity to later in phase circuits or having to cross over itself too much with a lot of back and forth lead dress making signal leads redundantly long (and therefor sensitive to proximity). I've got most of it worked out now. Keeping in mind that there's work involved on your end. Your patience will be rewarded...

He said

I don't walk on water but I HAVE made several fully custom requests and have already worked out what I can get away with compared to what's most convenient. And I've seen what absolutely won't work without problems and had to solve for it. Trust me. I'll make it as easy as it can be to get to the good results you want. That said, nothing is guaranteed. But if there are any problems I'm setting up to be in the best position to fix them easily. Like I said, I've done this.

And thanks for playing along. Before you get too thankful, this is actually fun for me.

[Dandrix]

all right chuck, i am all in. were do you need them located? did you also need the preamp tubes rewired?

[Chuck H]

I'm working on the layout now. Though I don't expect to finish in this round I will get it finished before the weekend is over... He said.

To keep the amp as stable as it would be without any modification will require some changes to the layout you had planned to use. Wiring it with things layed out as they are is really asking for stability problems. No one want to get that far in and then find out they have a boat anchor without a major rework. So let's get it right the first time That said... I'm going to need you to relocate those reverb tank jacks.

That's going to leave two unnecessary holes in the chassis. Is going to burn your toast?

[Tubenit]

There is an abundance of good information on how to do this here: http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=7957.0

With respect, Tubenit

[Dandrix]

Is this more helpful?

[Dandrix]

I could rewire the sockets. Take me about an hour?

[Chuck H]

No, just like the fender 5g9, left to right: 5u4gb> 6v6> 6v6> speakers jack on top, tremo. Pedal jack below> (reverb section) first rca jack out>
Recovery 12ax7> rca input jack> driver 12at7 > Trem. Tube 12ax7> PI 12ax7 tube > v1 preamp tube 12ay7

I might suggest that you lay it out like the amended picture I posted. Putting the reverb tubes at the end of everything poses several problems. It shouldn't be too difficult unless you're averse to rewiring the sockets.

[Dandrix]

Ok. Great. Is this your tube function layout?

No, just like the fender 5g9, left to right: 5u4gb> 6v6> 6v6> speakers jack on top, tremo. Pedal jack below> (reverb section) first rca jack out>
Recovery 12ax7> rca input jack> driver 12at7 > Trem. Tube 12ax7> PI 12ax7 tube > v1 preamp tube 12ay7

[Chuck H]

Ok. Great. Is this your tube function layout?

[Dandrix]

Here’s a couple more:

[Dandrix]

I'll need to see everything in situ. That is, as it will actually be with the board and pots in place in the chassis. Layout, lead dress and where things are grounded can be critical for stability and low noise. I can't develop and/or put my stamp on anything without a very clear picture of these things. Maybe just set the board in the chassis so I can see where existing components are in relation to existing pots, etc. I need to know what end of the space we're working with has the .02 cap feeding the PI and other things. Thank you.

[Chuck H]

I'll need to see everything in situ. That is, as it will actually be with the board and pots in place in the chassis. Layout, lead dress and where things are grounded can be critical for stability and low noise. I can't develop and/or put my stamp on anything without a very clear picture of these things. Maybe just set the board in the chassis so I can see where existing components are in relation to existing pots, etc. I need to know what end of the space we're working with has the .02 cap feeding the PI and other things. Thank you.