I just replaced a raspy sounding tweeter in a Fender AcoustaSonic. The new one is a direct replacement part. When I put my Fluke on it, it reads open, yet it works. Why is this? I think I got lucky this time, because the bad sounding one read open as well, and I assumed that was proof it needed to be replaced. Actually, I did get some erratic readings if I pressed the cone a bit.
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Originally posted by Randall View PostI just replaced a raspy sounding tweeter in a Fender AcoustaSonic. The new one is a direct replacement part. When I put my Fluke on it, it reads open, yet it works. Why is this? I think I got lucky this time, because the bad sounding one read open as well, and I assumed that was proof it needed to be replaced. Actually, I did get some erratic readings if I pressed the cone a bit.
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Originally posted by Mike Sulzer View PostI think it is piezoelectric: looks sort of like a capacitor rather than a resistor.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Also, some piezo tweeters will have internal resistors which can be either in series or parallel.
So there is no real rule about how they should measure with a meter.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostAlso, some piezo tweeters will have internal resistors which can be either in series or parallel.
So there is no real rule about how they should measure with a meter.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View PostSeries, definitely. I've dissected a couple of Motorola piezo drivers and found 30 ohm 1 or 2 watt series carbon comp resistor. I'm guessing that resistor is there to try and maintain power amp stability. The capacitance of a regular piezo iirc is about 0.1 uF. Without that resistor, the piezo driver would look like a near short circuit at high frequencies, say 5 KHz on up. Amps are bound to not like that, especially if there a number of piezo drivers in parallel.
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