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Is the twin reverb backface 80s all by hand wired?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Justin Thomas View Post
    But how many nitwits you know are dumb enough to crank a TR anyway...
    What's an amp for if not to crank it up?

    For something like a TWIN you need to either be: far enough, crazy enough or deaf enough to do it

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    • #17
      I've read this is known as "The little deaf girl" ad in Fender collector circles.

      Attached Files
      "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

      "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

      "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
      You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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      • #18
        Originally posted by TelRay View Post
        As far as I know from experience with my 1974 TWIN REVERB, TURRET BOARD is the right term to describe it. There is a base paper fiber board with eyelets to which components are soldered.
        The vintage Fender style is actually 'eyelet board', so an addition to the types you mentioned. Turret board would be typical vintage Hi-watt, where you have metal studs instead of eyelets, on a board more rigid than fibre-board is. The component leads are wrapped around the studs.
        Originally posted by Enzo
        I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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        • #19
          Originally posted by g1 View Post
          The vintage Fender style is actually 'eyelet board', so an addition to the types you mentioned. Turret board would be typical vintage Hi-watt, where you have metal studs instead of eyelets, on a board more rigid than fibre-board is. The component leads are wrapped around the studs.
          ahhh... one more to add to the list, then

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          • #20
            There's also perf board, wood, whatever... I've seen printed turret board (Sovtek).

            I personally do true PTP with the occasional use of a tiny turret board or homemade terminal strip. Usually it's harder to lay out cuz the organ chassis I'm recycling never had the greatest ground schemes, and I'm trying to not use can caps anymore due to pain-in-the-assery & expense.

            If I had any chassis with the tubes in a line I'd make a board.

            Justin
            "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
            "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
            "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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            • #21
              Thx guys again.
              So Silver twins vs 80-81 twins, which you guys prefer ?

              all and all I guess the pre-cbs is the best version of twin ?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by chunli1900 View Post
                Thx guys again.
                So Silver twins vs 80-81 twins, which you guys prefer ?

                all and all I guess the pre-cbs is the best version of twin ?
                IMHO they can all sound great. The most important factor is the person holding the guitar at the far end of the cable plugged into the amp, and what they're sending down that cable. An extra word on the master volume twins - although I fail to get any kind of tone that pleases me out of these by turning the master low and preamp volume high, I have run across those who manage to do this and get an acceptable tone. For my own purposes, and perhaps many others, dialing the master down to about 7 can suppress a fair amount of his & hum while still allowing all the clean headroom you would ever hope to get.
                This isn't the future I signed up for.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by chunli1900 View Post
                  Thx guys again.
                  So Silver twins vs 80-81 twins, which you guys prefer ?

                  all and all I guess the pre-cbs is the best version of twin ?
                  Like Leo said. They're all good. They're each a bit different from on another. The amp in question IS like a silver face twin. The 135W UL model. It's LOUD! And therefor most useful for clean guitar work or distortion pedals. But even a BF TR is generally too loud cranked up. For collectors the BF is, of course, the most desirable. For players, Sure, them too. But only because it's a coveted model. They all get the job done. And many more great recordings have been made using SF Fender amps than BF Fender amps. That's something the common information never includes. So here's the bottom line...

                  It's already been established that this is a quality amp. If you are considering buying this amp based on it's street cred then now you know that it doesn't have much because it's a rare model and poorly known. But the only thing that makes it different from the 135W UL TR is the black face plate. So look up THAT model and see what other players think of them. It's the same amp. AND...

                  If you're considering purchasing this amp based on it's models provenance rather than it's tone that's a mistake. Especially if you're buying sight unseen (or sound unheard as it were). Most amps have a sweet spot. This is a very loud amp. Are you sure it is what you need or something you can use? There's no better way to know than to play through it. If you can't do that and you don't know about these amp models then you might be setting yourself up for buyers remorse.
                  "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                  "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                  "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                  You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by chunli1900 View Post
                    Thx guys again.
                    So Silver twins vs 80-81 twins, which you guys prefer ?
                    68 to 82 are all considered 'silver face' design even though they made the 80-82 front panels black. It makes things confusing for sure.
                    'blackface' refers to the series before the silver face. Most people prefer the old black face design, but there are people that like the silver-faces more. The real 'blackface' amps are always worth more than equivalent silver-face.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                    • #25
                      I love most classic Fender amps, but I always hated it when I was forced to use a SF (135W, UL, JBLs) twin. Probably the stiffest and most piercing amp I know. But that's not related to point-to-point wiring.
                      Last edited by Helmholtz; 04-17-2020, 09:41 PM.
                      - Own Opinions Only -

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                      • #26
                        Agreed. IMO, "SF (135W, UL, JBLs) twin" amps sound horrible. They'd probably work well to amplify a warning siren, but that's about it.
                        Last edited by The Dude; 04-17-2020, 10:26 PM.
                        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                        • #27
                          IME, with modern tubes, the 135W models are lucky to put out 100W, and with the basic, original (somewhat inefficient ) speakers, they don’t seem super loud.
                          The hardwired bright cap on the master vol isn’t helpful in getting a good sound. So I can well imagine the tone with JBLs being ‘piercing’
                          My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

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                          • #28
                            Then,...... imagine the weight.
                            "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by pdf64 View Post
                              IME, with modern tubes, the 135W models are lucky to put out 100W, and with the basic, original (somewhat inefficient ) speakers, they don’t seem super loud.
                              The hardwired bright cap on the master vol isn’t helpful in getting a good sound. So I can well imagine the tone with JBLs being ‘piercing’
                              Believe me, those JBLs were super efficient (101dB/W to 103dB/W depending on magnet type). And their aluminum dustcaps further increased on-axis pierciness.
                              Last edited by Helmholtz; 04-17-2020, 10:59 PM.
                              - Own Opinions Only -

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                              • #30
                                Recipe for disaster:

                                1) Amp that amplifies primarily in the upper midrange - check.
                                2) Heavy efficient speakers with aluminum dust caps - check.
                                3) Speakers butted right next to each other for maximum mid-range coupling - check.
                                "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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