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Silvertone 1484 Twin Twelve

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  • #16
    maybe the masonite board is the secret behind the Silver tone

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    • #17
      Originally posted by shortcircuit View Post
      maybe the masonite board is the secret behind the Silver tone
      Is that possible? I always thought a flimsy baffel was a sign of low quality and frowned upon. Same with particle board cabinets.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by tigerzilly View Post
        What makes them a pain to work on?
        The fact that they can fall apart on you just taking the chassis out for one!.

        nosaj
        Binkie McFartnuggets‏:If we really wanted to know the meaning of life we would have fed Stephen Hawking shrooms a long time ago.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tigerzilly View Post
          Is that possible? I always thought a flimsy baffel was a sign of low quality and frowned upon. Same with particle board cabinets.
          i think there was some sarcasm there.
          nosaj
          Binkie McFartnuggets‏:If we really wanted to know the meaning of life we would have fed Stephen Hawking shrooms a long time ago.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by nosaj View Post
            i think there was some sarcasm there.
            nosaj
            Ok. I'm taking note. Mice urine and flimsy baffels good for tone!

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            • #21
              Do you make him a offer on the 58' LP?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by mozz View Post
                Do you make him a offer on the 58' LP?
                He said he had already moved all the guitars. Maybe that meant sold. Maybe he gave them away to people he knew. Not sure. Didn't seem like he could play much anymore. The LP and the amp were given to him by his friend's daughter after his friend passed away.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by soundmasterg View Post
                  You will need to come up with a mod to replace the can cap as they are not available anymore in those values, so you can cut a bigger hole and put in a dual cap, then add others under the chassis with terminal strips, or you can leave the stock can in place but disconnect it electrically and use discrete caps in the chassis with terminal strips.

                  Greg
                  That's where I'm at now. Seems like it's always a problem replacing the can caps. There isn't much room in the chassis to bring all the caps to the underside.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by tigerzilly View Post
                    It was free! Now I have a Silvertone 1484 Twin Twelve amp.
                    I would be very happy If I could find one like that for under $300. The ones I've seen have gone for $600 - $800 with the cabinet, and in roughly the same condition. It's a great amp for that era, and there's a lot of information out about them, as in schematics ! So you won't be flying blind with a no-name amp...

                    https://www.silvertoneworld.net/ampl...schematic.html

                    All for free ! that would make me happy for several months, perhaps a year !
                    Last edited by HaroldBrooks; 11-01-2019, 05:08 AM.
                    " Things change, not always for the better. " - Leo_Gnardo

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by tigerzilly View Post
                      That's where I'm at now. Seems like it's always a problem replacing the can caps. There isn't much room in the chassis to bring all the caps to the underside.
                      I've never done it, but you could "Gut" the can cap and put smaller modern ones in place. It's been done by many, and it doesn't have to look perfect from the underside, IMHO.

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkZYkSLEit0

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBSYCaosk_k

                      Also, I've found some the caps from China are small for the microfarad capacitance. A 20uf Atom is 3 times the size of a Chinese cap. I'm sure the Atom is a better cap, but If you use the amp and keep your eye on it, I'm also sure the Chinese caps will last a decade. The big thing is using the amp periodically, and keeping A/C off the caps. Since I believe this amp has a diode rectifier, there's less chance of a short that would blow up caps.
                      Last edited by HaroldBrooks; 11-01-2019, 05:15 AM.
                      " Things change, not always for the better. " - Leo_Gnardo

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by HaroldBrooks View Post
                        I've never done it, but you could "Gut" the can cap and put smaller modern ones in place. It's been done by many, and it doesn't have to look perfect from the underside, IMHO.

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkZYkSLEit0

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBSYCaosk_k

                        Also, I've found some the caps from China are small for the microfarad capacitance. A 20uf Atom is 3 times the size of a Chinese cap. I'm sure the Atom is a better cap, but If you use the amp and keep your eye on it, I'm also sure the Chinese caps will last a decade. The big thing is using the amp periodically, and keeping A/C off the caps. Since I believe this amp has a diode rectifier, there's less chance of a short that would blow up caps.
                        I found a can cap that is 20/10/10/10. The original is 20/10/5.

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                        • #27
                          There you go. Connect two of the 10s together and you get your 5!

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by tigerzilly View Post
                            I found a can cap that is 20/10/10/10. The original is 20/10/5.
                            Ask these guys https://hayseedhamfest.com/
                            nosaj
                            Binkie McFartnuggets‏:If we really wanted to know the meaning of life we would have fed Stephen Hawking shrooms a long time ago.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Also, I've found some the caps from China are small for the microfarad capacitance. A 20uf Atom is 3 times the size of a Chinese cap. I'm sure the Atom is a better cap, but If you use the amp and keep your eye on it, I'm also sure the Chinese caps will last a decade.
                              Not sure which chinese brands you mean. But for decades the best, most advanced ecap technology has been coming from Japan (no matter where the production sites actually are), think Rubicon, Chemicon, Nichicon, Matsushita/Panasonic etc. as well as Europe (Evox/Rifa, Philips/BC now Vishay, Siemens/Epcos).
                              The ecap technology of Sprague (Atoms) and ILC must be considered inferior and outdated by today's standards.
                              - Own Opinions Only -

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post
                                Not sure which chinese brands you mean. But for decades the best, most advanced ecap technology has been coming from Japan (no matter where the production sites actually are), think Rubicon, Chemicon, Nichicon, Matsushita/Panasonic etc. as well as Europe (Evox/Rifa, Philips/BC now Vishay, Siemens/Epcos).
                                The ecap technology of Sprague (Atoms) and ILC must be considered inferior and outdated by today's standards.
                                Atoms are definitely not the best caps out there. They are some of the most expensive, but use old technology and a much larger case size than what is necessary. A guy on Hoffman's site took one apart and posted some pics some years back and it was a smaller cap inside the large case. All the brands Helmholtz mentioned are better than the Atoms, and are cheaper and much smaller. I like the Panasonics myself. I usually prefer to go with discrete caps too instead of a cap can, but in space limited applications like the 1484 it might make sense to use a cap can. The CE caps are somewhat expensive and in some cases not the best quality too. You might get better performance from a dual can and use a discrete cap under the chassis on a terminal strip. That approach would certainly be cheaper than using the can cap.

                                I am pretty sure the speaker cabinet is particle board all around. The head box is too, though that isn't under any strain. The 1484 that I have currently is stock bit I never had a speaker cabinet for it....just the head. My brother's that I modded the piss out of is the same deal, and we ended up making a new head box for his and adding a Fender reverb circuit to it among many other changes. I made the thing sound really good but I hate working on it due to the lack of space and poor layout. BTW, these amps were only ever about 25 watts RMS. With the small original output transformer and some mods to the screen supply you can get it up to 30-35 watts RMS and that is about it.

                                @Haroldbrooks - this amp does use solid state diodes in the power supply. It has two half wave two diode doublers stacked on top of each other for a total of 4 solid state diodes, four caps, and somewhat poor regulation, so it sort of emulates the sag of a tube rectifier.

                                Also, there are two errors on the schematic. It shows a ground between R35 and R36 that should not be there, and on the trem tube it has pins 6 and 8 reversed on the schematic....or at least the numbers are reversed from where they actually are.

                                Greg

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