Asbestos alert!

[Chuck H]

asbestos actually contains the TONE, mesothelioma is a small price to pay!
Kidding seal that shit up and dont disturb!

Risky joke. But "I" (at least) thought it was funny. Along the lines of anything authentic and vintage being paramount even to ignoring things like safety. Which we've seen with other things like chassis grounding on vintage amps, death caps, etc.

There was a guy (is a guy? I don't know if he's still around) here on Whidbey players were calling "Wild Bill" doing amp service for working players with vintage amps. Every now and then I would see a band at an event or bar here with a vintage amp that sounded like ass and I'd offer to fix it for them. On more than one occasion the response was that Wild Bill had just looked it over and given it the thumbs up. As far as I could tell Willy's MO was to keep things original no matter what. Two prong AC cords, NOS filter caps, leaky old film caps and drifted carbon comp resistors left in place and things like that. And the cut of his jib must have been pretty good because he had his "clients" singing the praises of keeping the amps as original as possible. They all thought their amps sounded great even when I could literally hear problems. These players were always offended that I would suggest their amps needed service.

[J M Fahey]

Same here, lots of customers get ANGRY at my actually repairing their Old amps.

Emphasis on old, not vintage.

And even if they were anything special ., broken is broken anywhere anytime.

As of the mystery mat,I guess itīs asbestos.

And it might very well be original.

Not a direct flame, but a Mace is a powerful amp, and those tubes radiate **a lot** of heat.

I have used asbestos myself, in fact still do i9n a limited way, strictly for oven use

And I would definitely NOT spry it with anything with a lower tempertaure rating than asbestos itself (hint, NO sprayable paint or lacquer) which will eventually toast or burn; if anything remove it and use a sheet of brass or aluminum or even a nailed piece of iron sheet.

Kitchen rated aluminum is too thin.

[Chuck H]

And I would definitely NOT spary it with anything with a lower temperature rating than asbestos itself (hint, NO sprayable paint or lacquer) which will eventually toast or burn...

Thank you for covering this. I had intended to but slipped.

...if anything remove it and use a sheet of brass or aluminum or even a nailed piece of iron sheet.

Kitchen rated aluminum is too thin.

Yes. Plain ol' aluminum foil won't do. I've used aluminum roof flashing material as a heat shield on rear panels many times. You can buy it in a roll at many hardware stores. It cuts well with ordinary full size scissors. And it's been handy stuff to have around for various odd things too. I've even bent and formed it for more structural integrity and used it for small chassis.

[Axtman]

I took the panel outside and put on a mask. I wetted down the panel, pulled the staples and pulled off the asbestos material. Then I double bagged it and put it in the trash. Problem solved!

[Tom Phillips]

...Plain ol' aluminum foil won't do...

Agree. However, I don't feel that the rear panels we are discussing need a heat shield. After all, the asbestos was placed over the electronics inside the chassis rather than adjacent to the tubes. It's actually a bit of added insulation that raises the internal chassis temperature an insignificant amount. I find that heavy duty aluminum foil works well as a sealing surface when contact cemented over the top of potential asbestos residue. I would never use it in a location where a chassis needs to slide over it during installation or removal.

...I've used aluminum roof flashing material as a heat shield on rear panels many times. You can buy it in a roll at many hardware stores. It cuts well with ordinary full size scissors. And it's been handy stuff to have around for various odd things too...

Thanks for that tip. I'll put it on my shopping list.

[Chuck H]

Agree. However, I don't feel that the rear panels we are discussing need a heat shield. After all, the asbestos was placed over the electronics inside the chassis rather than adjacent to the tubes. It's actually a bit of added insulation that raises the internal chassis temperature an insignificant amount. I find that heavy duty aluminum foil works well as a sealing surface when contact cemented over the top of potential asbestos residue. I would never use it in a location where a chassis needs to slide over it during installation or removal.

Thanks for that tip. I'll put it on my shopping list.

I use HD aluminum foil all the time for the electronics shield for the open chassis side. Regarding the flashing as a heat shield, I was considering the amp being discussed in the thread. Where it does seem that the asbestos sheet was being used as a heat shield for the tubes.

[Tom Phillips]

...Regarding the flashing as a heat shield, I was considering the amp being discussed in the thread. Where it does seem that the asbestos sheet was being used as a heat shield for the tubes...

Aha! I see that now. I was fixated on the 1950's Fender application.

[Helmholtz]

Isn't this the SS section?

[Chuck H]

Isn't this the SS section?

I read "Solid State & Hybrid" for the sub forum. The Peavey Artist combos were mostly SS preamps and tube power amps. The photos I posted above are the OP picture and then the back of a Peavey Artist VT combo.

[Helmholtz]

Thanks, didn't consider the hybrid could mean tubes + SS.
To me it always meant a mixture of discrete and integrated circuits.

[Chuck H]

Thanks, didn't consider the hybrid could mean tubes + SS.
To me it always meant a mixture of discrete and integrated circuits.

I get that. The term "hybrid" with respect to guitar amps has meant 'SS preamp tube power' or 'tube preamp SS power' for a long time here in the US. No regard for technical correlations was ever given.