I bought a pair of Ruby 6V6GT new in 1997 but never even use them. It was in a shed in the back yard for years. I put it in my amp few days ago and it did not sound good. It's look it was farting when cranked. As I experiment with it more and more, it seemed to sound better and better. Someone told me that if a tube has been sitting around for a long time, it takes time to burn in and sound better after that. Is there any truth about that?
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Just used a 16 years old new tubes.
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Originally posted by Alan0354 View PostI bought a pair of Ruby 6V6GT new in 1997 but never even use them. It was in a shed in the back yard for years. I put it in my amp few days ago and it did not sound good. It's look it was farting when cranked. As I experiment with it more and more, it seemed to sound better and better. Someone told me that if a tube has been sitting around for a long time, it takes time to burn in and sound better after that. Is there any truth about that?
I think you are hearing crossover distortion. That's the farting noise.
Heat up the bias setting and I think the sound will clean up.
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Originally posted by Alan0354 View PostI bought a pair of Ruby 6V6GT new in 1997 but never even use them. It was in a shed in the back yard for years. I put it in my amp few days ago and it did not sound good. It's look it was farting when cranked. As I experiment with it more and more, it seemed to sound better and better. Someone told me that if a tube has been sitting around for a long time, it takes time to burn in and sound better after that. Is there any truth about that?
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Originally posted by soundguruman View PostI think your bias is set too cold for the tubes.
I think you are hearing crossover distortion. That's the farting noise.
Heat up the bias setting and I think the sound will clean up.
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Originally posted by jbltwin1 View PostDid you clean the tube pins before you put them in? That's a LONG time to sit and NOT have some form of corrosion on them.
Alan: you need to measure current rather than grid voltage when speaking of bias. The negative voltage on the grid does not give an accurate assessment of idle dissipation. You could put different tubes in there with the same grid voltage and they may end up biased differently.
To accurately see how your tubes are biased you need to measure the idle current and at the same time measure the plate voltage.
Multiply those 2 numbers and you will have the idle dissipation in watts.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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I did not clean the pins. I did take them out just now and looked under magnifying glass and the pins looked shinny. I don't believe the contact is the problem. But since I have been removing and plugging many times, there is no way to tell whether there is any oxidization at the beginning anymore.
I just ordered a bias probe. Before, I have no easy way to measure the idle current. But DRRI was designed for -37V, biased at -33V cannot be cold biasd.
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But DRRI was designed for -37V, biased at -33V cannot be cold biasd.
-37v is an average figure, and how hot that makes a tube run is a matter of not only the bias voltage, but also the B+ voltage, not to mention the tubes themselves. Tubes exhibit a wide range of natural current, so -37v on the grid might make one set run pretty hot and another set pretty cool. That is why it is adjustable.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Oxidation can cause problems with low potential connections like grids in a common cathode circuit with as little as 6 molecules thickness, far thinner than visual inspection would reveal. You probably resolved it by unplugging and re-inserting the tubes.
What did the distortion look like on the scope?
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Originally posted by kg View Post16 is a blink of an eye for a vacuum tube.
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