fender bridge ouch!

[David Schwab]

They are viable fixes, but shimming the neck to me isn't fixing the problem. The problem is with sharp screws projecting - so fix the screws.

Sure it is, because the saddles will be higher and the ends of the set screws won't be sticking out.

But I would go with new shorter screws. But it also sounds like there isn't enough neck angle either.

[Paleo Pete]

New Fender Original Stratocaster Bridge Height Screws | eBay

Guitar Parts Resource :: Bridge Height  & Intonation Screws

Bridge Saddle Height Screws | Allparts.com

Stainless Steel Bridge Saddle Height Adjustment Set Screws For Fender Stratocaster

Music stores might have them, the last link says 4-40 screws, if that's true many hardware stores should carry set screws that size cheaper than you can get them online.

[Chuck H]

Maybe this is one time that SGM is correct, maybe not. He does seem to be a bit like a stopped clock most of the time. But I've personally never had much luck getting anything like screws for an instrument at a hardware store. The screws are usually nickel or chrome plated brass with unusual dimensions. Deranged or not, the method I suggested will resolve the problem quickly and effectively and will not look. "messed with" from the top.

To my knowledge the allen screws in the standard Fender trem aren't plated brass like most hrdwr. Too small I think. I've seen surface rust on them many times and they strip/damage without revealing anything like plating. I think they're just plain screws. But I'll wager that the size or thread pattern isn't compatible with what you'll find at a hardware store. And while Fender may offer short screws, I'll bet they'll need to be ordered. And good luck getting a counter jockey to actually locate the part number and get the ball rolling.

Do look at the hardware and music stores for shorter screws. If/when they can't be found:

Buy the normal screws and cut them down. If your guitar isn't a collectible you could just cut down the screws you have too. Or:

Shim the neck. This isn't my first go to because it can take a couple of tries to get it just right and requires additional adjustments. It also, obviously, adds neck tilt in relation to the guitar body and MAY change the feel of the instrument a tad. Usually for the better IMO, YMMV.

[Rick Turner]

Are we allowed to be real here?

Old-school Fender hardware is crap...cheap stamped steel with nominal plating. Leo's favorite tools in his whole factory must have been the punch presses. Kachung! another cheap part... Kachung! another cheap part... Leo's genius was in being the Henry Ford of the electric guitar biz. He didn't invent it...whatever it was...he just figured out the cheapest way to make something that did the job pretty well.

Have you ever seen an old Fender that didn't have totally rusted screws? And were more than likely so rusted that A) the screws wouldn't turn and B) had the Allen sockets stripped out or so full of rust that you couldn't get a wrench into them.

So, yes, stainless steel screws...at least it's a start in the right direction.

Whatever tonal qualities we ascribe to how Fenders were and are made, it's not because of some sort of master-mind intent in that direction. It's that Leo got lucky and we became adjusted to that sound as being iconic.

And don't forget that Leo did not have Jimi Hendrix in mind when he designed the Strat!

And Bill Monroe hated rock'n'roll, but Elvis was just fine...nothing like royalties on Blue Moon of Kentucky to make a mandolin player a happy good ol' boy!

[eschertron]

I would make 6 depth gauges out of tooth picks or something, then I would screw the Allen head screws flush and grind the screws to the proper length from the back with the bridge disassembled. Leave a little extra! But it back together and set it up. No one the wiser.

if you do shorten the [new or old] [stainless or mild steel] screws, then this gets my vote. The screws are 'jigged up' and you can hold the bridge pieces better than the screws by themselves (and way better than holding them in vise-grips, which is how I'd probably do it before realizing the error of my ways). And if there's any 'mojo' to be had by thread contact between the screws and the bridge pieces, this will maximize that, too.

[big_teee]

Check the Shimming, it may need more or less shims.
It may have been shimmed, and may need some removed.
When I shim a guitar not only trying to get a nice action, I look at screw length.
Or you can buy screws.
You can hone the tops of the screws if they are sharp or jagged.
GL,
T

[Mark Hammer]

Not disputing, but stainless steel because....?

[Rick Turner]

McMaster-Carr....new screws....replace with stainless steel.

[Mick Bailey]

They are viable fixes, but shimming the neck to me isn't fixing the problem. The problem is with sharp screws projecting - so fix the screws. If your hat was too big, you could get a smaller hat. Or you could have collagen injected under your scalp to make your head bigger. Either way would be a viable fix for a loose hat.

I'm always wary of carrying out work that may affect something else, particularly if it's a customer's guitar. Take off the neck and shim it; the screws could be rusted solid, or a head break off, or when reassembling you find out it's the final straw in the thread stripping out of the neck. Or the neck is so tight in the pocket it pulls away some paint off the body as its removed. Then the pickups may need adjusting..........

Sharp screws seem to be more of a problem with chromed hex-heads. It's that final thread that produces a wire-edge. I just put them in a drill chuck and round them over/smooth them off with a fine swiss file. They still project, but don't cut your hand.

[olddawg]

You people are deranged. There is no need to grind the screws down.
Go to the hardware store and buy some shorter screws.
Probably any Fender dealer has short screws too.
I mean, really?

Maybe this is one time that SGM is correct, maybe not. He does seem to be a bit like a stopped clock most of the time. But I've personally never had much luck getting anything like screws for an instrument at a hardware store. The screws are usually nickel or chrome plated brass with unusual dimensions. Deranged or not, the method I suggested will resolve the problem quickly and effectively and will not look. "messed with" from the top.

[Justin Thomas]

Not that I think anyone in this thread is deranged, because they're all viable fixes... I vote for getting new screws, length irrrelevant, and cut the NEW ones if you have to. Cut/grind them from the underside, not the adjustment part. If you have a small saw or file & a vise, make your own! Machine screws are dirt cheap, cut off the heads, cut a slot, cut to length, grind the bottoms nice. Leave the originals alone. One of my pairs of wire cutters has a built-in small screw/bolt cutter.

The issue with buying the screws from a Fender dealer is, usually the set will have 4 short ones for the E strings, and the rest will be longer, for the neck radius. I had to get a few sets before I had enough. Another thing - is this a vintage style trem with the bent sheet metal saddles, or a newer style with block-style saddles? If the vintage style, you have a lot less room for error. With a newer style, you can have them a bit short, because there's a lot more thread area in the saddle itself - more wiggle room.

Justin

[popoahi]

weren't u looking for just a quick fix like during a gig?
simple is best.

[soundguruman]

I would make 6 depth gauges out of tooth picks or something, then I would screw the Allen head screws flush and grind the screws to the proper length from the back did with the bridge disassemble. Leave a little extra! But it back together and set it up. No one the wiser.

You people are deranged. There is no need to grind the screws down.
Go to the hardware store and buy some shorter screws.
Probably any Fender dealer has short screws too.
I mean, really?

[olddawg]

I would make 6 depth gauges out of tooth picks or something, then I would screw the Allen head screws flush and grind the screws to the proper length from the back with the bridge disassembled. Leave a little extra! But it back together and set it up. No one the wiser.

[potatofarmer]

If it were mine, I'd shim the pocket. You definitely do want to create an angle here. Just cut a strip off of a business card and put it deep in the pocket.

I have an Epi Les Paul 100 with the opposite problem, it set up perfectly with the bridge roughly a mile in the air. Opened up the neck pocket to find a veneer shim already present! Thanks, factory. Tried it without the shim, but ultimately it needed the shim on the outside end of the pocket to get the bridge a reasonable height over the body.