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For those.......would I need to get these heat treated? The manifacturer asked. I would think not.....But I need reassurance.....(poor baby). The manifacturer also mentioned C1008/1010steel. Whats the story with this?
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What heat treatment do you need?
You need to heat the steel to a point where it is no longer magnetic. then quench it in oil. Engine oil is just fine. This make the crystaline structure very short. the steel at this point is very hard but brittle. Now you must temper the steel by heating it to at least 350 F and air cool it.
Steels with differing carbon content will respond differently. Wrought iron which has no carbon can only be hardened by working it.sigpic Dyed in the wool -
So.... The screws don't need heat treated. If you want them to trasfer the magnetic properties well. The manifacturer mentioned C1008/1010 steel WTF is this ?Originally posted by Spence View PostComment
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Never mind what he's suggesting. What you need is Electrical iron. Here's the
Nominal Analysis
0.02 max. C, 0.12 Mn, 0.12 Si, 0.010 P, 0.010 S, 0.20 Cr, 0.08 Ni, 0.05 V, Bal. Fe
Low-carbon iron with good direct current soft magnetic properties after heat treatment. Has been used in electro-mechanical relays, solenoids, magnetic pole and other flux-carrying components.
If the manufacturer cannot provide this, look elsewhere.sigpic Dyed in the woolComment
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Well air cooling on such small parts might be too fast, oven or bath cooling something like eight hours going down from 250/300C° to 20/30C°Comment
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He just said that c1008/1010steel has the same magnetic properties? You know where Im going with this Spence!! There is no substitute.....Originally posted by Spence View PostComment
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HUmmm....Spence
the C1008/1010 steel will be just as magnetic as C1018 and they are in stock and do not have to be manufactured, which will save you a ton of money. I just have to figure out the nickel plating charges and I will get back to you in the morning with pricing. (replyed email from manifacturer)
Whats your thought on this? 10,000 screws.........Nickle plated is extra I am assuming. Im wonderin what the real carbon point is in Electrical Iron. I got your formula Spence, and am going to spit that at him, which is gonna make his hairpiece burn.Comment
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But this is the tempering stage after the hardening stage.Originally posted by Satamax View Postsigpic Dyed in the woolComment
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He'll probably bullshit you. There's no substitute for the right stuff. I don't think they'll need hardening after.Originally posted by NightWinder View Postsigpic Dyed in the woolComment
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I don't think the manufacturer understands what you need the screws for. If he is familiar with guitar pickups and the role screws play in them, then he will realize that hardening is not needed.Comment
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True, but steel alloys below 1035 or so cannot be hardened by heating and quenching. The hardening one gets in 1008 to 1018 is work hardening from the cold-forming of the head and the rolling of the threads, and this is can be reversed by annealing (raising the temperature to a near red heat (fast) or long tempering at say 700 F).Originally posted by Spence View Post
The classic way to heat small items without burning is to heat a large piece of metal to the desired temperature, and put the small items on the large piece.
One could also put a bunch of screws into a small section of iron pipe with iron caps at either end, almost filling the pipe, and heat the whole affair, then let it cool slowly on a firebrick. Put a piece of paper in with the screws to use up all the oxygen, so the screws won't turn black from oxidization.Comment
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