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Magnet insulation
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Lacquer is plenty hard but it just takes a month to dry especially after multiple coats. How long are you waiting before winding?.
Instrument grade lacquer is a little softer than the furniture grade as it's designed to be flexible and move with the wood as the wood absorbs and give up moisture.
If you want harder -more wear resistant finish you need a floor flat or semi-gloss that has a high mineral content. Traffic® is one very tough coating for commercial floors (if you can get a sample).
Any acid catalyzed conversion varnish will hold up really well and isn't too harsh to use casually at home.
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Originally posted by Possum View PostI wonder what kind of lacquer he is using??????? Its not glossy, its super hard stuff, I've tried 4 differrent lacquers so far. The varithane diamond stuff gives a better tougher coat, I'm going to try that, I did a second coat I know that will work but thats too much effort really.
The lacquers I've tried are the musical instrument grade which is too thin. Minwax, which just plain doesn't want to DRY out, and Deft which is real thick but failed to work when wound is super glossy with puddles etc.
One coat of Varithane is invisible and pretty hard. I haven't tried winding this but it just might work....
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Originally posted by kevinT View PostDid he give any indication whether its a specialty lacquer for a certain purpose (wood floors, marine applications, etc..) or something that comes right off the shelf at home depot?
what about mixing lacquers? Did he indicate whether he mixes them or has his own receipe?
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I suggested to Possum tonight to try some conversion varnish. I just refinished my 1989 Rickenbacker 230 using this stuff, which is similar to the finish RIC uses. It allows their finishes to be very thin yet very resistant to wear, and is the same stuff used for painting cars mostly. The brand I used was PPG, and it is a 2 part poly type finish. I'll see if I can try to dip some steel in some of this stuff this weekend and see how it holds up to the DMM test, and I'll let you all know what I find out.
Greg
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varathane.....
Its Flecto brand from Lowe's, Diamond outdoor wood, satin finish. I haven't actually tried a wind with it yet but two dips really coats the magnets good. Maybe one coat and sitting in a toaster oven for a couple hours might make it hard enough. I'm resistant to using two part mixes, to dip you create alot of waste with an expenisve product, it seems to me that stuff is thick too which isn't great to dip a bobbin into. Maybe the spray lacquers are harder. Maybe baking the stuff helps harden it? Maybe I'm getting burned out on buying cans of stuff that doesn't work :-)http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
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Possum, I've told you that I use Fiddes Bone hard nitro cellulose. Never ever had a problem. Now I'm imagining you will not get Fiddes but Fender just used the same nitro cellulose they used on guitar bodies. The reference about a whitish color maybe can be explained. Generally when I use my Fiddes lacquer, I leave the bobbins to dry out over night. That's not always possible so sometimes I'll bake them off in my oven at 86 deg F or 30 deg C.
This dries it out in minutes but leaves a white bloom on the lacquer surface. This can easily be rubbed out with a dry cloth.sigpic Dyed in the wool
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I've used Sherwin-Williams catalyzed lacquer on instruments. You just add a little hardener to it, it can be thinned like regular lacquer. It dries really hard, but that takes about a week...
Speaking of insulating magnets... ironically I wound three pickups the other day and forgot to tape off the cores, and all of them shorted to it! Dammit! Don't know what I was thinking...It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
http://coneyislandguitars.com
www.soundcloud.com/davidravenmoon
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Fiddes...
well yeah we can't get it here.....there must be something similar. I'm going to get a can of spray lacquer to try and add to my collection of toxic chemicals that don't work :-)http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
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Originally posted by Possum View Postwell yeah we can't get it here.....there must be something similar. I'm going to get a can of spray lacquer to try and add to my collection of toxic chemicals that don't work :-)
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ha...
I got two different brands of spray laquer tonite, one for each nostril. snort snort.......http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
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Originally posted by EtLa View Postanybody here tried GLYPTAL 1202 varnish?
http://www.glyptal.com/1202Tech.pdf
Dielectric Strength – Dry (ASTM D115-55) 2500 vpm Dielectric Strength – 24 hours in water 600 vpm
GLYPTAL 1202 is suggested as a general-purpose insulating and finishing varnish for form and random-wound coils, stators, armatures, and most other types of electrical apparatuses. It is excellent for giving and oil-resistant finish coating over inexpensive asphalt varnishes.
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Just as an update, my nitro lacqueer cured in an hour under a 150Watt halogen worklamp. Awesome; no shorts.sigpic Dyed in the wool
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