Installing lead wires: How critical is wire gauge?

[big_teee]

I only solder on top of the eyelet on some Fender type bass pickups.
On fender type guitar pickups, most everyone does it like David S. Says.
You fill the eyelet hole with solder making a good connection with the 4x gauge wire.
Then heat and push the pre-tinned wire through from the flatwork inside, being careful not to hit the 4x gauge wire.
Hold steady and let cool, then push and feed the wire through the big hole exiting the bottom.
Dress the wires.
I put a little right hand twist in my white and black wires, or it may be yellow and black for middle pickups.
It's been done that way for many many years, and it works fine.
Fender still does their custom shop pickups that way.
T

[ScottA]

I was using solid core wire for awhile, and I had no problem with the "push the wire through a hot blob of solder" method.

When I went to stranded wire, I noticed that the wire didn't seem to wet as well. I've gone to sucking the solder out of the plated through holes (I fill them while stuff is in process so they don't get a bunch of crap in them), sticking the wire through the empty hole with a kink in it so it stays in place, then soldering with the wire in place. This way you can clearly see when the solder wets the wire. I have more confidence in my connections this way. My flatwork is non standard (a circuit board, actually), and I don't have to worry about having the magnet wire in the same plated hole as the hook-up wire.

[big_teee]

I was using solid core wire for awhile, and I had no problem with the "push the wire through a hot blob of solder" method.

When I went to stranded wire, I noticed that the wire didn't seem to wet as well. I've gone to sucking the solder out of the plated through holes (I fill them while stuff is in process so they don't get a bunch of crap in them), sticking the wire through the empty hole with a kink in it so it stays in place, then soldering with the wire in place. This way you can clearly see when the solder wets the wire. I have more confidence in my connections this way. My flatwork is non standard (a circuit board, actually), and I don't have to worry about having the magnet wire in the same plated hole as the hook-up wire.

Whatever works for you.
Before I tin the push back wire, I twist it with my fingers.
That makes the end of the fine stranded wire tighter and smaller, before I tin it.
Not sure what methods guys do before winding.
I actually wrap the wire in the start eyelet and solder it before I start winding.
make sure there is no solder sticking through the inside to snag the wire while winding.
Also make sure the guide stop is adjusted so the wire doesn't grap the wire.
I have done hundreds that way with no problems.
Others I think, tape the wire to the backside, and install it later.
Like I said, whatever method works for you is the right one!
T

[David Schwab]

Before I tin the push back wire, I twist it with my fingers.

I always twist my wires before I tin them (even though it's tinned wire), but I don't use the pushback stuff. I use 26 gauge insulated wire.

That cloth covered stuff is too thick IMO, and you end up with a crowded control cavity.

[Joe Gwinn]

Holding things by hand while the solder cools is a good way to create cold solder joints, especially with traditional 60-40 (Tin-Lead) radio solder. Better is eutectic 63-37 (Tin-Lead) solder, which solidifies without going through a pasty phase. In any case, the wire should be mechanically secured, so the solder joint can cool in peace.

I would pre-tin the eyelets, so the thin magnet wire doesn't dissolve in the hot solder while the eyelets are accepting the solder.

And, the iron tip must be clean, hot, and well tinned before starting. Temperature-controlled irons are very useful here.

Steps: Pre-tin the eyelets. Put thin wire through the eyelet a few times, but don't pull it very tight, so slight changes in bobbin size don't break the wire. In one fluid motion, heat the pre-tinned eyelet and fill with solder. The wire will take care of itself. The soldering step cannot take more than a second or two. Literally. If it takes longer, something is wrong. Allow bobbin to cool undisturbed.

If the magnet wire enamel was removed before soldering, the temperature of the iron isn't too critical, so long as the iron has the thermal oomph to get the eyelet up to temperature immediately.

If using solderable magnet wire, the tip must be at 750 F, or it will take forever to strip the enamel.

All this isn't hard, but a little practice before doing anything critical is very helpful.

Solder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[David Schwab]

Holding things by hand while the solder cools is a good way to create cold solder joints, especially with traditional 60-40 (Tin-Lead) radio solder.

I meant to comment on that too. I use one of those third hand things.