Dearmond / Rowe rewind suggestions

[StarryNight]

Got myself a Rowe pickup to rewind and not having done this particular model before I thought I would ask if anyone has, and any tips for disassembly and reassembly. My first issue is that the height adjust screws seem to have solder or caps on the end to prevent the screw from being removed from the baseplate. I managed to heat up one cap and use the baseplate to strip it from the screw as I unscrewed it. Before I remove the other height adjust screw I'm thinking I should puzzle through how to deal with the 3 rivets holding the baseplate to the cover. Any thoughts? What's the likelihood of finding replacement rivets like this? Any advice is welcome!

[rjb]

I'm thinking I should puzzle through how to deal with the 3 rivets holding the baseplate to the cover. Any thoughts? What's the likelihood of finding replacement rivets like this? Any advice is welcome!

When I had the same issue with a different model DeArmond, Spence and Jonson advised to pry up the swedged end with a sharp tool so the rivets could be reused. Jason said its easy to make rivets from copper tubing. Some jewelers use an acetylene torch to make rivets from wire. All these suggestions were beyond my skill set, so I just drilled them out from the back. I found one eBay vendor who specifically stated his rivets fit DeArmond pickups, but his price was more than I wanted to pay.

IIRC, I just glued the rivets in for show & held the pickup together with potting wax.
Since its for my own use, I've received no customer complaints.

[SonnyW]

This is the secret of the ages I am giving you here. You can find rivets that sort of match the originals at Jay-Cee Rivets (Buy Rivets | Rivet tools - Rivet Nuts & Other Specialty Fasteners). You need the semitubular brass ones, probably 3/32 diameter. You will need to determine what length you need from the four or so available lengths. Not all the Rowe/DeArmond pickups use the same length. Also, these are plain brass, not plated. I nickel plate the heads, to make them to look right. I have never been able to find exact duplicates of the originals. For example sometimes you might need to adapt a longer rivet by either using a flatwasher under the riveted end or drilling and filing the riveting end to get the right length. It is possible to set them with a centerpunch that has a fairly shallow angle, using an aluminum block to back up the head end. I used to do it that way but I now use the correct rivetset tool for them, which I got from Jay-Cee. I had to modify my arbor press to fit it. Also, I'm not sure about that particular model you have but sometimes there is also an eyelet inside which is used as a bushing and spacer.

The last I saw, that guy on ebay is selling the aluminum ones which will kind of work but they aren't authentic. I have tried the stainless ones also and I wouldn't recommend those unless in a big jam. They are just too stiff. Any way you go about this it is likely going to be costly unless you rewind a lot of DeArmonds.

[StarryNight]

Hey guys, thanks for the pearls! Not having a chroming kit I'm at the mercy of what's available. I managed to hammer/pry the back flange of the rivets with a small flat head screwdriver and they are pretty much in tact but not long enough to reuse. I'm thinking of trying to heat rivets and rolling the shank between two pieces of flat steel. I might get a mm or two if I'm lucky. Otherwise I found these https://www.ebay.ca/itm/291610384341

The dimensions are right but the head is slightly bigger. 4.2mm and mine are 3.7mm

TBC...

[rjb]

Otherwise I found these https://www.ebay.ca/itm/291610384341

Item location: Hong Kong.
"This item does not ship to the United States."
I don't think I've seen that before.
(I have seen "This item does not ship to Italy.")

[SonnyW]

Those are shown to be made of steel but it looks like they would work fine, depending on the length you need. After all that's what the rest of the metal parts probably are made of. I usually need 13/32 length for many of the DeArmonds, and 7/16 would often be ideal. I have at one time sourced a few of that length in raw brass from a jewelry place, but that supply has dried up. I don't see a problem with the shipping for you StarryNight from the source you found since you are in Canada. By the way I don't think I've ever seen the "Does not ship to United States" on ebay either.

For others in the US or other countries, there is another vendor on ebay with the same item here :
200 Pcs 3 32" x 15 32" Nickel Plated Fasteners Oval Head Semi Tubular Rivets | eBay

Incidentally, the "Plug and Plate" either nickel brush plating kit or the copy chrome kit (which is really mostly just an extra bright nickel also - it has no chrome in it) is only about $37 from Caswell Plating. Everything you really need is included. That's what I started with. I found enough uses for it in restoring pickups and restoring other guitar parts, (for example tuning keys, bridges, screw heads etc.) that now I use a much more advanced (more controllable) power supply and have acquired a kit of many various plating solutions and wands. With a little practice the plating comes out fine, if it looks a bit dark you can use a dab of the Peek metal polish on it that Caswell has for sale and it will shine up great.