How to disassemble dual rails

[Mark Hammer]

I was given a Seymour Duncan dual rails Telecaster bridge pickup, and the coils got torn. Prior to their tearing, I seem to recall the functioning pickup having a DCR of around 13k. Visually, it does not correspond to their current catalog items (the two pieces of flatwork form a perfect oval at the ends, rather than two visually separate bobbins), and the DCR seems different from current catalog items.
I would like to rewind the pickup to something note quite so devastatingly hot, however, I am unsure about how to disassemble it to be able to rewind the coils. I get the sense that some part are possibly glued in place.

This pic very closely resembles the underside of the pickup.
Are the blades secured to the magnet with any adhesive?
Are the blades adhered to the sides of the bottom flatwork?
How would I go about separating the individual coil bobbins from the rest of the structure? I'm concerned that if I force anything that is glued in place, it might break. Any advice?

[big_teee]

Here's a couple threads on tele & strat blades.
http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33517/
http://music-electronics-forum.com/t27783/
This looks similar to mojo blade flatwork.
The two bobbins and blades may be super glued together, and to the flatwork.
That is how I build them.
You may want to start by warming them up good with the hair dryer.
That should help soften everything.
GL,
T

[Mark Hammer]

Thanks a batch. I owe you and David a big thanks. That answers the questions I had, especially the shape of the cutout on the bottom flatwork. I couldn't tell from the outside whether it was two slits for the blades and the magnetwas added after the blade bobbins were inserted, or whether the whole assembly could be pushed through, once softened.

Those pics answer it for me.

[Mark Hammer]

Well, got it apart. Now the hard part begins. Unfortunately, unlike the pictures linked to in that other thread, Duncan didn't use bobbin. Rather, the blade is the core of the coil and the top and bottom are simply flatwork. So none of my usual approaches to winding are going to work here. I'm going to have to figure out some way of grabbing the bottom of the blade and spining it around.

I'll get back to you onthat.

[big_teee]

If you have no winder?
There are several temporary ways to make a simple winder with a drill.
Use double sided carpet tape to hold the bobbin against the bobbin plate.
You can use the estimator, & make adjustments to the bardan blade data, for turns info.
GL,
T

[Mark Hammer]

I normally use a hand drill. I like old-school manual, because it is easier to feel a snag and stop turning instantly, than might be the case with a power drill. If I was making pickups for a living or doing rewinds in a repair shop, I'd opt for something more sophisticated, but this is just single digits in any given year for my own amusement, so the added time is negligible.

The trouble is that most chucks, whether manual or electric, consist of three segments to grip what's in the chuck. That works great for gripping round or hexagonal things, but poorly for straight things. I'm going to have to fabricate something that will grip the blade, but be grippable by the chuck. I suspect the simplest would be to take a small piece of hardwood dowelling (to fit in the chuck), cut a slot at one end (to fit the blade) and drill a little hole to insert a set screw to tighten the grip of the blade by the dowel.

[big_teee]

If you have a spindle that you chuck in your drill with an atttached bobbin plate?
Make a spacer with a slot in it to account for the depth of the blade sticking out the bottom of the flatwork bobbin.
Then use double sided tape to hold it together while winding.
A normal day of winding, with unusual bobbins.
We all do these things from time to time.
GL,
T