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51 split coil P Bass pickup

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  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by LtKojak View Post
    On the contrary, you got a ton of excellent info, given by several different experienced professionals that happen to be members, that obviously went way over your head.

    Ok. Like what? Give me one example to think about.
    Why are you giving info that goes over my head? To prove something?
    I know a bit for example repairing or making tube amps, bass playing as a pro, watches...
    If someone is asking, I try to be as helpful as I could.
    I learned that from people that really know their stuff like late Peter Stevens (WAL basses), Ruokangas guitars, Tom Stenback, Johan Lundgren, Aiken amps, Finnish Watchmaker school teachers...

    Leave a comment:


  • LtKojak
    replied
    Originally posted by okabass View Post
    To my original question I get very, very little information.
    On the contrary, you got a ton of excellent info, given by several different experienced professionals that happen to be members, that obviously went way over your head.

    " There are known knowns. These are things we know that we know.
    There are known unknowns. That is to say, there are things that we know we don't know.
    But there are also unknown unknowns. There are things we don't know we don't know. "

    - Donald Rumsfeld

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunnin...3Kruger_effect

    FYI.

    NOW you can throw your usual temper tantrum.

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by big_teee View Post
    Here's a Split J pickup with large magnets I made one time.
    You might get some Ideas from it.
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...highlight=bass
    Another pickup you might try in your bass is a Blade Bucker.
    You could use the blade data for a Telecaster Bridge blade pickup.
    In my experimenting I liked about everything better than a stacked pickkup, but that's just me.
    T
    Ok. Nice clean PU.
    Perhaps split works on JB. And of course post '57 P Bass.
    I try to get dirty and brutal sounding PU to a Pre '57 Precision Bass. The magnets are big part of that sound (one per string and small diameter).
    I've made now two split coils to '51 style P Bass. I found them kind of too nice. But one bass player liked and bought one (7,6 kΩ). The latter with 8,5 kΩ is better.
    I've tried some guitar rail humbuckers on my bass. Kind of ok, but too far from original single coil.
    The stack is now in, and I found it best up to now.

    Leave a comment:


  • big_teee
    replied
    Here's a Split J pickup with large magnets I made one time.
    You might get some Ideas from it.
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...highlight=bass
    Data in post 5.
    Another pickup you might try in your bass is a Blade Bucker.
    You could use the blade data for a Telecaster Bridge blade pickup.
    In my experimenting I liked about everything better than a stacked pickkup, but that's just me.
    T
    Last edited by big_teee; 07-06-2018, 10:47 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by big_teee View Post
    So what is the exact question?
    You're making a split coil?
    What can the membership do to help?
    This pickup forum is mainly commercial builders, and guys in business don't give away a lot of particulars.
    So keep that in mind with your questions!
    GL,
    T
    "So what is the exact question? What can the membership do to help?"
    My questions were: "Like to hear your opinions how hot to wind it?" "Now I going to try more turns. What would be max turns ? My first intention is 8-9 kΩ. Is over 10 kΩ too muddy? "

    I have got from Antigua and Hemholtz, and perhaps a few others, 99 % of all the useful information. Thanks them all.

    I made a split coil already, not what I like.

    Stack type PU with two ca. 14 kΩ coils (Seym. Duncan clone) works much better to me.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/nl5rv0rkhe...52.42.jpg?dl=0

    I understand if someone doesn't like to give information.That is totally ok. But what I don't understand is that why then bother "answer" something off the point. And a style like thinking that the person who is asking is an idiot.
    Last edited by okabass; 07-06-2018, 09:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post
    As advised before: If possible measure inductance and forget the rest (apart from magnet size and strength).
    Ok. Thank you for the right direction. I have that kind of speculations, that the inductance is one of the most important factors.

    Leave a comment:


  • big_teee
    replied
    Originally posted by okabass View Post
    Ok.

    "Wire size... which makes a huge difference" "Size" means exactly what? Gauge? Diameter?

    ps. I'm gettin tired that certain dismissive style some "answer" here. To my original question I get very, very little information. Good advice is if you don't know the matter, you don't 'have' to nitpick something "wise". It seems that excluding some very informative nice members, some are just hair splitting. That's not what I expected to happen on this forum. Sorry. I'm used to give knowledge, and get knowledge.
    So what is the exact question?
    You're making a split coil?
    What can the membership do to help?
    This pickup forum is mainly commercial builders, and guys in business don't give away a lot of particulars.
    So keep that in mind with your questions!
    GL,
    T

    Leave a comment:


  • Helmholtz
    replied
    As advised before: If possible measure inductance and forget the rest (apart from magnet size and strength).

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by big_teee View Post
    Wire size can make a huge difference.
    If you're not particular, why are you bothering to custom wind?
    Just buy a Joe Blow pickup.
    I've said before things that make a big difference.
    Bobbin height
    magnet strength and type
    wire size
    Wire insulation thickness
    TPL
    Turns Count
    Inductance
    etc.
    To name a few.
    T
    Ok.

    "Wire size... which makes a huge difference" "Size" means exactly what? Gauge? Diameter?

    ps. I'm gettin tired that certain dismissive style some "answer" here. To my original question I get very, very little information. Good advice is if you don't know the matter, you don't 'have' to nitpick something "wise". It seems that excluding some very informative nice members, some are just hair splitting. That's not what I expected to happen on this forum. Sorry. I'm used to give knowledge, and get knowledge.

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by LtKojak View Post
    Good luck, then.
    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • big_teee
    replied
    Wire size can make a huge difference.
    If you're not particular, why are you bothering to custom wind?
    Just buy a Joe Blow pickup.
    I've said before things that make a big difference.
    Bobbin height
    magnet strength and type
    wire size
    Wire insulation thickness
    TPL
    Turns Count
    Inductance
    etc.
    To name a few.
    T

    Leave a comment:


  • LtKojak
    replied
    Originally posted by okabass View Post
    If 10 to 20 % is good for 7ender then it is good for me
    Good luck, then.

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    Originally posted by Jim Shine View Post
    Today, it is not huge. The 50's and 60's wire, there was a much, much larger tolerance than todays wire. Just the nature of the beast back in those days. It is part of the reason the old pickups were so inconsistent readings wise. Partially the sloppy counters, partially the wide variances in the coil wire. The tolerances were so loose back in those days. some manufacturers that required a tight tolerance would measure samples and remove out of spec wire before it hit the stockroom. A lot of NOS coil wire we find today is NOS because it was ridiculously out of spec. Fender didn't care. They used everything they got.
    Ok. Thanks.

    There seems to be a tendency to look some point with a microscope, and at the same time some points with a bare eye. The order of magnitude is good to keep in mind. Usually music-electronics 10 % precision is ok.

    That's what is presume with the tolerances at that time.
    On 7ender amp schematics voltages are ±20 %. Precision resistor was 5 %, normal was 20% carbon comp.. Now normal is 1-2 % metalfilm . One rocket engineer (really) wrote, that in the 50s they had to file the carbon composite resistors to get more precision value.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim Shine
    replied
    Originally posted by okabass View Post
    Variation between different AWG 42 wire can not be very big.
    Today, it is not huge. The 50's and 60's wire, there was a much, much larger tolerance than todays wire. Just the nature of the beast back in those days. It is part of the reason the old pickups were so inconsistent readings wise. Partially the sloppy counters, partially the wide variances in the coil wire. The tolerances were so loose back in those days. some manufacturers that required a tight tolerance would measure samples and remove out of spec wire before it hit the stockroom. A lot of NOS coil wire we find today is NOS because it was ridiculously out of spec. Fender didn't care. They used everything they got.

    Leave a comment:


  • okabass
    replied
    To Ltkojak

    DCR difference?


    If 10 to 20 % is good for 7ender then it is good for me.

    Apparently you don't think you know. Then tell us.
    Last edited by okabass; 07-06-2018, 05:19 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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