B/H Round Table & Misc

[big_teee]

On the silicone, if everything is wax potted and taped?
Just want something to fill in a void.
I'm going to test some of the black in one of my piddle projects.
I bet it will work fine.
T

[Joe Gwinn]

On the silicone, if everything is wax potted and taped?
Just want something to fill in a void.
I'm going to test some of the black in one of my piddle projects.
I bet it will work fine.

With wax protecting the fine wire, could be. As for the piddle experiment, test in high humidity.

By the way, the classic use for silicone potting of fine-wire coils is low-power high-voltage transformers, like ignition coils and flyback transformers. Flyback transformers used the red RTV stuff, if I recall, but I bet is was specifically made for the purpose, if only to support high production.

[big_teee]

Instead of Silicone, how about hot Glue.
I could really make a mess with that.
Hot glue, like that used in the craft section at walmart is Cheap!
T
I Bought a tube of the permatex black RTV.

[Rodent]

Terry - I'm still not sure I understand what problem you're wanting to resolve with the silicone or hot glue. I see you have a plastic pickup cover for your bobbins, and that your bobbins are potted in wax.

Is the issue that you want to secure the bobbin to the plastic cover? If so, I never (with very rare exception) see this done on any of the various styles of bass pickups I've received from manufacturers over the past +10 years. Maybe it's something that is done for those thin-stringed geetars, but us keepers of the manly strings aren't subjected to this kind of bondage.

Take a look at most any Jbass/Pbass/soapbar/boutique pickup set that utilizes a molded plastic cover, and you'll see that it is loose from the bobbin. If mounted even remotely correct, there's never any issues with micro-phonics due to the frequency spectrum involved.

[big_teee]

Sure soapbars are built in covers all the time.
When you get away from Js and Ps the cover is the pickup.
There doesn't have to be a problem, to have a discussion, and to try to find an easy solution to fill a void.
Trying to come up with a way to fill a space without using expensive 2 part electronic grade epoxy.
I try to find cheap and easy everday things to use, instead of specialized electronic components.
There are cheap tubes of Silicone everywhere, I want to use some of it!
Remember, this section is hobby, not professional business.
T

[big_teee]

Here are some deals on some B-stock import basses!
These are great if you want something to rout, or use for pickup test Axes.
SX Ursa 4 JR RN VWH Short Scale B Stock - RondoMusic.com
SX Ursa 4 JR RN 3TS Short Scale B Stock - RondoMusic.com
SX Ursa 1 RN PK EB B Stock (Guitar and bag Only) - RondoMusic.com

[Rodent]

Terry - I think you got some bad info somewhere. most bass pickups that utilize a plastic cover over the coil do not have any kind of fill material. If a coil is encapsulated with epoxy in a mold, then the molded epoxy becomes the cover. But this is not the case where a coil is simply covered with a plastic shell

here's an image of a Nordstrand Fat Stack 6-string pickup in a Bart P4 sized cover.



I opened one half of the OEM packaging so I could gently lift the cover from the coil as demonstration to the point of there being no filler. It's not just P and Jbass pickups that are done this way. It has been this way since before I installed my first soapbar shaped pickup back in 2004, and it is exactly how I receive soapbar shaped pickups that utilize a plastic cover today

Bart and Lane Poor (and I believe EMG) pickups are encapsulated into epoxy, and that epoxy is the cover. Same for the Armstrong pickups Ken Smith used to use. But note that these pickups do not have a separate plastic cover.

Not wanting to be a kidney stone or argumentative here, but I believe it's important to clarify what is standard for those who might get the wrong idea reading this thread and thinking that they need to fill the void between the coil and the plastic cover.


It appears you have your mind set on the extra time and cost of adding a filler around the coil, so I'm not going to try to sway you from doing that. I will say that it is an unusual thing to do, and I don't see the benefit to it ... but it does open the door for you to give epoxy potting a consideration since you'll eliminate the potential to rewind one of those bass pickups once you fill the void around them with all that goo

[big_teee]

I'm just looking for alternatives, for a project I have coming up.
Gee Guys, can't we think outside the box now and then.
Or, do we always have to use the same old tired ways every time?
Cover, pickup, it means the same thing, if it is all one piece.
I'm always looking for a easier cheaper way to do things.
By the way we don't argue here, we just throw our ideas out.
If someone wants to accept them then great, if not do what you like!
T

[big_teee]

The addition of the 5/16, and 3/8 by 3/4 magnets has been great to have available.
I would also like to see Shea stock a 3/8x5/8 (.375"x.630").
There are places the 3/4" length is too long.
Would anyone else like to see a 5/8" length?
They would work better in MusicMan Pickups, and P-bass applications to name a few.
T

http://music-electronics-forum.com/a...price-list.pdf

[Rodent]

.75" long is perfect for my winding needs, even for a Pbass configuration. I've had great sounding Pbass sets even when using a .375"x1.0" long rod. sure they're not the same physical size as the split-coil Pbass design that's been made the last 50 years ... but sometimes it's good to be different and think outside the box now and then

[big_teee]

I like the 3/4" length and that is a good all around size.
Don't see where I would ever need the 1 inch long.
The 5/8 would be a better fit for some of my applications.
I do like tall pickups for bass, they seem to be clearer and wider range.
much over .5-.54" between the flats however, is more than I like.
T

[Rodent]

nothing says you can't have rod length sticking out past the bottom of the bobbin. keep the coil height to what you prefer and let any extra length hang out in the basement. this way you can keep cost down by using the same rods, but have a different/optimized coil depth for neck and bridge

[rjb]

Back to the 1-part silicone, would Dow Corning 737 be safe?
http://www.firstpowergroupllc.com/DC...orning_737.pdf

Excerpts from the TDS:

Oxime cure; cures at room temperature upon exposure to moisture in the air

Does not react with or corrode most metals or plastics (see Limitations)

In confined cure conditions, Dow Corning 737 Neutral Cure Sealant may:
• Discolor brass, copper or other sensitive metals

But no warning about corroding metals.

Prices from online sources aren't too bad- don't know where you can get it locally.
Dow Corning 737 Neutral Cure RTV Sealant, Clear, 3 oz. Tube - Stanley Supply & Services
Dow Corning 737 Neutral Cure Sealant Silicone Clear 300 mL Cartridge

[big_teee]

nothing says you can't have rod length sticking out past the bottom of the bobbin. keep the coil height to what you prefer and let any extra length hang out in the basement. this way you can keep cost down by using the same rods, but have a different/optimized coil depth for neck and bridge

I do that some.
I like variety, and options.
I'm getting by with the 3/4, but .630 would really be handy too.
I figure if the 5/16, and 3/8 x 3/4 sell pretty good, shea would up to the 5/8?
I won't spring it on him too quick.
This one pickup I'm working on, shorter would be better.
Same with the .187 or .195s?
Trying to use just .710s, or .781s for all guitar and bass pickups just wouldn't be practical.
One long size does not always fit all, but I'm getting by for now.
T

[big_teee]

On the silicone, dow corning makes some good stuff.
I wonder if they have that in a black.
When I get back on that project, I'll try the permatex, I already have that, but in the future I could try the OC.
T