SPN vs PE - solderability differences

[SonnyW]

I don't have any of those problems.
But, then again I haven't used any PE or HFV on Single Coils in a couple of years!
Just poking fun, Sonny!
T

Heck Teee, I don't think those are problems anyway. I don't mind sanding the wire and sometimes I get so OCD about it that I sand the poly too on starts if I am burying the solder joint. I would rather do that than have to find out I didn't get a good connection when it is too late. For example like on the mini blade humbuckers where I use a 30 gauge lead wire, both the lead wire and the magnet wire are solderable poly but I still sand them both. I have had it happen that if I didn't sand them the connection wasn't good enough and I had to rewind. I would rather have the half a minute "problem" of sanding than the 20 minute problem of stripping off the wire.

[big_teee]

Heck Teee, I don't think those are problems anyway. I don't mind sanding the wire and sometimes I get so OCD about it that I sand the poly too on starts if I am burying the solder joint. I would rather do that than have to find out I didn't get a good connection when it is too late. For example like on the mini blade humbuckers where I use a 30 gauge lead wire, both the lead wire and the magnet wire are solderable poly but I still sand them both. I have had it happen that if I didn't sand them the connection wasn't good enough and I had to rewind. I would rather have the half a minute "problem" of sanding than the 20 minute problem of stripping off the wire.

I actually had more trouble soldering the last 42 HFV I had than the PE.
Some of the HFV can be pretty stubborn, I had a roll that was pretty hard to sand off too.
All the Poly I have now solders real easy.
Guys do it different, but on SCs I actually solder the Start wire first thing.
Then when I get it wound, I wrap and solder the finish eyelet.
I heat up and stick the wires in right before we go in the wax pot.
I still get into some weird Scenarios now and then.
Most of my problems are getting the wire wound around holding bar, or get the wire stuck to the tape, when I start.
You name it, I've probably done it!
It reminds me of deer hunting!
Show me a guy that has never missed, and I'll show you someone that hasn't Shot much! lol
T

[SonnyW]

I actually had more trouble soldering the last 42 HFV I had than the PE.
Some of the HFV can be pretty stubborn, I had a roll that was pretty hard to sand off too.
All the Poly I have now solders real easy.
Guys do it different, but on SCs I actually solder the Start wire first thing.
Then when I get it wound, I wrap and solder the finish eyelet.
I heat up and stick the wires in right before we go in the wax pot.
I still get into some weird Scenarios now and then.
Most of my problems are getting the wire wound around holding bar, or get the wire stuck to the tape, when I start.
You name it, I've probably done it!
It reminds me of deer hunting!
Show me a guy that has never missed, and I'll show you someone that hasn't Shot much! lol
T

For the way I think you wind, by DCR, soldering the start right away makes a lot of sense. For the way I wind, by turns count, I just think it is easier to wait. No biggy to me either way. Horses for courses and all that. I have also had the same experiences with the HFV as you mention.

[Lyrebird Steve]

I always sand the PE, then wrap it through the eyelet without soldering quite a few times, then wind a few turns on by hand before starting to wind the coil.

Wow ... how dumb do I feel right now ...

... never occurred to me to do this beforehand. I wind a bunch of PUps then fire up the soldering iron and wire them all up as a batch ... this is all in a separate area of my workshop. I might move a piece of sandpaper over to the other workbench LOL

[SonnyW]

Wow ... how dumb do I feel right now ...

... never occurred to me to do this beforehand. I wind a bunch of PUps then fire up the soldering iron and wire them all up as a batch ... this is all in a separate area of my workshop. I might move a piece of sandpaper over to the other workbench LOL

I keep a plastic cup (like the lid off an aerosol can) with several pre-cut little folded strips of the sandpaper handy at each of my winders and also at my bench where the soldering station is. Don't feel too dumb about it, sometimes a revelation like that happens to me and to all of us - maybe that is a reason why we should discuss this stuff.

[David Schwab]

Is PE solderable like SPN, or should you sand off the insulation prior to soldering PE?

I just solder both of them. I never sand or scrape the insulation off. You need a hot iron. I use a digital controlled soldering station set to about 600°F.

[big_teee]

I just solder both of them. I never sand or scrape the insulation off. You need a hot iron. I use a digital controlled soldering station set to about 600°F.

I've done that too.
I think the wire whatever they call it now solders easier than some of the old stuff.
I tried to repair an old pickup, and that wire had to be scraped, or sanded, it was tough to get the solder to stick.
I ended up having to rewind it, cause there wasn't enough to get a hold of to splice.
The HP, and SP is the easiest though.
Enjoy the PE, and HFV, the days coming when it will all be gone!
T

[kayakerca]

I just solder both of them. I never sand or scrape the insulation off. You need a hot iron. I use a digital controlled soldering station set to about 600°F.

I set my iron to 750°F for soldering SPN to the eyelets on my forbon S/C bobbins. I always go at the wire loops around the eyelets scrapping back and forth with the soldering iron until I'm sure the solder has penetrated fully. The solder bonds to the eyelets very quickly but it takes a little longer for the solder to stop building around the wire loops through the eyelet and sink right into them. I guess I'll give it a try with and without and see how it goes.

Thanks all.

[big_teee]

I set my iron to 750°F for soldering SPN to the eyelets on my forbon S/C bobbins. I always go at the wire loops around the eyelets scrapping back and forth with the soldering iron until I'm sure the solder has penetrated fully. The solder bonds to the eyelets very quickly but it takes a little longer for the solder to stop building around the wire loops through the eyelet and sink right into them. I guess I'll give it a try with and without and see how it goes.

Thanks all.

My station uses calibrated temperature tips.
For general purpose soldering on pickups and stuff, I use 700 degree tips.
for soldering the Pickup covers, I use a chisel tip that is an 800 degree tip, it really gets hot.
The 700 degree screwdriver tip does a great job for soldering eyelets.
For circuit board stuff I have some smaller 600 degree tips, I use.
T

[kayakerca]

My station uses calibrated temperature tips.
For general purpose soldering on pickups and stuff, I use 700 degree tips.
for soldering the Pickup covers, I use a chisel tip that is an 800 degree tip, it really gets hot.
The 700 degree screwdriver tip does a great job for soldering eyelets.
For circuit board stuff I have some smaller 600 degree tips, I use.
T

I use a Hakko 936 style soldering station with the small chisel tips (1.2mm) I think. I find the small chisel tip gives good surface coverage over an eyelet when heating soldering the magnetic wire compared to the ~ .5mm pointed tip which didn't work as well at transferring the heat on that job for me.

[big_teee]

I use a Hakko 936 style soldering station with the small chisel tips (1.2mm) I think. I find the small chisel tip gives good surface coverage over an eyelet when heating soldering the magnetic wire compared to the ~ .5mm pointed tip which didn't work as well at transferring the heat on that job for me.

Get the right tip and heat combo is important.
Like David Said, you want enough heat to do the job quickly.
Also don't forget the importance of good Quality Solder, that adheres well.
I still like the Kester 44. I like the standard 60/40 blend.
With the Lead Solder, if you haven't already, you need to Stock up.
It is going to get to be harder to find, and more expensive.
T

[David Schwab]

I tried to repair an old pickup, and that wire had to be scraped, or sanded, it was tough to get the solder to stick.

That means you did not burn off the old insulation. There are high temperature insulations, but even those are rated far below 600°F.

I find that scraping and sanding the wire makes it weak. It never worked well for me. I used to use a butane lighter to burn it off before I got these soldering stations.

[David Schwab]

I set my iron to 750°F for soldering SPN to the eyelets on my forbon S/C bobbins. I always go at the wire loops around the eyelets scrapping back and forth with the soldering iron until I'm sure the solder has penetrated fully. The solder bonds to the eyelets very quickly but it takes a little longer for the solder to stop building around the wire loops through the eyelet and sink right into them. I guess I'll give it a try with and without and see how it goes.

Thanks all.

If you have to scrape you aren't flowing the solder in right. I heat up the loop/eyelet, and then while holding the tip on it, flow the solder it. Lots of smoke comes out, and the flatwork starts to smell like maple syrup, and then the eyelet/wire is fully filled with solder. Takes about 4 seconds.

Don't scrape, hold the tip against the eyelet and flow the solder in.