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Silvertone 69A console power supply advice

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  • Silvertone 69A console power supply advice

    So I rebuilt this console for a client but what is bothering me is the main power supply is a 2 prong cheater cord without a fuse. It has a power transformer and adding a grounded power cord would be simple electrically but I am unsure how to do this with the cheater cord setup. How do you all get around this? Should I just disconnect the cheater and run a separate 3 wire and then add a fuse underneath the chassis?

  • #2
    I have attached the power amp schematic.
    Attached Files


    • #3
      Thanks Jazz. Here is a different version that is a little better match.,


      • #4
        It is a two wire unit and you want it to be three wire. Remove the two conductor cord, and install a three wire. Bond the ground conductor to the chassis.

        You are not going to do this and keep the little two prong connector involved.

        You could remove the two pronger, enlarge the hole and mount an IEC male on the chassis, then just use a common power cord.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.


        • #5
          Yeah this is what I was thinking. I want it to be safe.. this is my only reasoning for doing this since it will not belong to me and will likely stay plugged in all the time. I just didn't know if there was a 3 wire version of a cheater cord that I could slip on to keep the originality of it. I haven't dealt with a lot of cheater cord setups.


          • #6
            They don't make a three wire cheater cord, because there are not three pins to plug it onto.

            In the old days, the common two wire cord was attached to the rear panel - usually Masonite - pressboard. If you took the rear panel off, it automatically unplugged the power. Most repairmen carried a similar power cord not attached to a panel. So he could remove the panel then use his cord to "cheat" and power up the set. SO technically the cord on the panel was not the cheater, the one the technician used was a "cheater". Over time people lost the distinction and started calling all power cords of that type "cheaters".

            They haven't made those in MANY years. The modern equivalent is pretty much the common IEC connector and detachable power cord, although that does not unplug itself when the covers are removed.
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.