Not UJN but NJU
Type: Posts; User: g1; Keyword(s):
Not UJN but NJU
At this point I'm thinking your stove elements may not be acting the same with signal as without.
Have you tried swapping them around to see if the imbalance moves to the other side?
To be honest, we're much more electronics focused here than a amp user type forum would be.
There are 2 of the most simple op amp types (with small tanks) on pg.7 of attached pdf.
Personally I like the ones that drive the tank a little harder using 4 paralleled sections of a quad op amp...
I always start with tone controls on amp set half-way up. Volume start from zero and bring up to comfortable loudness. Adjust tone to what you like as far as how much treble. (guitar volume around...
Post E,B, & C voltages for Q6,7, & 8
When you are comparing, you have the master set full up?
I think I now know of a little trick that will make me sound twice as good. ;)
Do you have your scope ground disconnected when you measure with your DVM from neg to pos ?
'battery cover separating forcefully' means explode, right?
I think what Jazz was getting at, if those transistors are obsolete, and you got ebay replacements that came from China, they may be fakes.
What did you mean by " 'match' to the originals", same...
Make sure the pin spacing is same and you are good.
When diameter matches, the pin spacing is usually right, but it's worth checking.
Those are impedance specs.
Corresponding DC resistance numbers would be around 35ohms at the input, and around 200ohms at the output.
So the numbers he gave in post #3 indicate that the transducers...
If you want to compare to other amps you need to also look at the rectifier type, and the standby switch arrangement.
In this case, the schematic I saw shows the standby switch connecting the HT...
Sure, that would be fine. The voltages should come up pretty much instantly when power is turned on.
Quick check would be to run it into a 2 ohm load if you have one. Power out should increase.
Monitor your +15V during warmup, then do same for -15V.
Let it cool between, so you have the same delay before the click.
Maybe a bad relay? Sounds like they are engaging the supply rails and one of them is not doing it's job?
Compare the voltages on the relay coils between the bad ch. and the good one.
If the coil...
Are those the only transistors that don't use the mica insulators? If so, I wonder if it has something to do with that. Seems to me the clear stuff is a bit thinner and less prone to drying out....
Zeppelin is a member here. You could send a PM and ask for it. :D
You can follow it right to one of the relay 'switch' pins. So it has to be the output.
Have you scoped the ripple on B+ at full power and at clipping?
Earlier he had mentioned there was a B+ connection to that side of coil, so 390K not in series.
Updated version of 'output.jpg':
The coil still needs a current path to energize. The bases of T1 and T2 can not provide that. Is it possible the pinout is mixed up?
Anything you can stick in series with that one to test?
Have you tried it with a 250 ohm instead of the 150 ?
I'd suggest you follow through the ends of the relay coil again (output.jpg). Current must flow through the coil. Transistor bases can not flow any appreciable current.
Yes. Neutral direct to xfrmr, hot to fuse in that drawing.