Looks like it from here.
Type: Posts; User: Enzo; Keyword(s):
Looks like it from here.
How many times have we spent an hour debating whether a 1 minute phone call would be successful?
Of course it would. But does the power scaler normally go "all the way up"? I mean is the max setting just the basic B+? If so couldn't we just bypass the scaler for now and apply full voltage to...
I think Yamaha only bought the Ampeg line, not Crate.
What voltage drops across it at idle? If you don't know, tack your 10-watter in there for test purposes and find out. That will let you calculate the dissipation. Then at least triple the wattage...
As anyone in theater will tell you, those are lamps, not bulbs.
Google "Ampeg crossover lamps" and they will come up.
I suspect the four rectifiers are really OK, but they are cheap, and if it gives you comfort, go ahead and change them too.
Those resistors are open. Otherwise you would get your 22 or 11 ohms. (A pair of 22 in parallel makes 11)
They are the same, SLM didn't make special Ampeg parts like pots.
I sold all my SLM pots as a bloc a couple years ago.
Looks like a stock SLM pot to me, and that is a normal looking part number for them. Would also be used in Crate amps, if that helps your search.
I suspected a bad power tube, so if they are still there... C9 can be left out during tests if you like, but since it gets hot, we know it is bad.
I mentioned R69 only to point out I suspect it...
Well, replace C9 for sure.
Those four tubes are wired in series in 12v mode across +24 and -24 supplies. SO 48v of supply to feed 48v of tube heater.
Any element goes open and they all go...
The IC is right across the 30v, remember. It could be shorted.
Lift one end of the zener from the circuit and then measure it. If it still measures 36 ohms, then yes it is bad.
They DID just say that. they offered the 220v alternative in case
I don't know the brand of the original part, but these should be equivalent:
You would never run the mains current for the whole amp THROUGH a light. Think about it, that describes the circuit of the "light bulb limiter" gadget we use.
The light goes ACROSS the mains...
At your leisure. Unlike many other things in my storage units, I know exactly where they are and I can reach them.
0.75A each? I thought 12AX7 6v wired drew 0.3A.
I just entered the part number into google - 2kj102j
DO that. I see Mouser sells them, and you can see data sheets and etc.
But when PV has the exact thing - I assume they are still in stock -...
Oh... A quick look and I see the D supply (what R306 powers) is to a 30v zener 5 watt D108 over lower left. That 30v supply is for the IC and various LED circuits. I'd probably feel OK with 1.5K...
Part numbers are all you need to get the parts, CALL parts at Peavey. #70240215
SO snip the braid off and blob some silicone on the resistors.
I had an early MIG30, I thin serial number was 00045.
It was well made, but the knobs. They were brown bakelite-sorta stuff, with a sorta three lobe vaguely floral shape. Looked like a knob on a...
Let us be more practical. I'd bet my lunch money that that loop was originally tied around the three power resistors to hold them to one another, it was never intended to be electrically involved. ...
A convenient place to measure power supplies is the cases of the big power transistors. Half of them should be about 75v and the other half about -75v. Measured to ground they ought to be close to...
I believe I have a pair of those power modules, removed from working equipment. PM if you have any interest or need for such.
Adaptors rated 12v will always read high until the current drawn from it is the rated current. In other words, if you darg 2A out of it, it ought to drop to around 12v. They are not regulated.
I bought a Big Muff Pi when they came out. It came in this nice birch ply box with sliding lid.
I tend to doubt the Russians had military fuzz tone boxes, but I will believe they used military...