PCB Trace Repairs

[Steve Conner]

I agree with Enzo! Where a pad terminating a wire on the board has ripped away, you should drill two small holes side by side with a Dremel, and pass the wire through them for strain relief. Then use a jumper wire to replace the busted pad.

Or if you're really diligent, replace the wire with a longer one that can bypass the busted trace and go all the way to the nearest component leg.

What potential buyer is going to open the amp up and look at the PCBs?! If they ask, just say no. Spend the time and effort pimping up the outside of the thing where it'll show, instead. It's only an Acoustic 370 anyway.

[Phostenix]

It's only an Acoustic 370 anyway.

Says the anti-SS, anti-PCB crowd.

There seems to be a very loyal following for these amps. And, just like most vintage gear lovers, they're very concerned about originality (right or wrong).

[Steve Conner]

Sure, they have a loyal following, but the loyal followers could all be broke. What did the last Acoustic 370 sell for on Ebay?

[J M Fahey]

Old Acoustic amps from the early 80's had "plug in board" edge connector pads or fingers along the edges, but always were soldered. Maybe for neatness.
I *draw* my boards with connectors, but never use them, just solder the wires straight into the holes and after assembly run a contact cement line on both sides, to protect wires from vibration o flexing damage.
Speaking of a possible new, cloned board, you don't need to know any software at all, if you hand trace it as I suggested earlier.
Of course, that works on relatively simple boards as this one, which was not drawn with any PC at all, but with good old hand laid black crepe tape and donuts.

[Phostenix]

What did the last Acoustic 370 sell for on Ebay?

$400

[Steve Conner]

OK, so if they sell for about $400, how much effort do you think is worth putting into restoring one? How much is your time worth, and how much profit do you think you'll make on the sale? In that context, is it a priority to have a perfectly repaired PCB that you couldn't tell apart from a new one?

These are good amps, but in a workhorse way, not some boutique plexi pooch that might change hands for ten times that amount.

[Enzo]

SO it compares in value to a new Crate 2x12 something.

[Alex/Tubewonder]

Conductive paint could be worth testing.

[Phostenix]

The conductive pen trails always seem to look messy to me.

I wouldn't mind making another board by hand, but I figure if I'm going to take the time to make a board, I might as well learn how to use board layout software so I can have that skill.

I approach this stuff as a hobbyist, not as a professional repair shop. It's puzzle solving for me, I guess. So, part of the fun is learning new things, not just using the most cost-effective solution. Ideally, I'd like the repair job to look as good as the original. If someone DOES open it up, I don't want them to say, "what hack did all this?". Even if the repairs are solid, if they don't look good, people will see them as sub standard. We've all experienced that (or done it ourselves).

Circuit Specialists here in the Phoenix area told me a couple of weeks ago (on the phone) that they didn't have any repair kits, but their website lists this:
CIRCUIT-FIX SYSTEM Complete

I'll call them again next week & see if I can get a different person....

[bnwitt]

Here is the page for all of their pcb repair stuff. I use their pens, foil stick ons, epoxy etc:

Printed Circuit Board Accessory Items