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Identify this cap?

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  • Identify this cap?



    Hi guys

    can someone identify this cap for me

    It says .75p 1.5kv

    But when I look on Mouser to order it I cant find it. I dont know what the .75p means or what type cap it is.

    thanks

  • #2
    Looks to me like a 0.75pf 1.5Kv ceramic cap. Unless you've got an amp with over 1kv across this cap, I'd use this one as a replacement:
    http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta...OtS9kLgnIbA%3d
    -Mike

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    • #3
      Thanks

      anyone know what that double triangle symbol means on the board where this cap is.

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      • #4
        It is not a cap.

        Seriously, .75pf would be the capacitance of the traces running to it.

        It is a transient suppressor, a spark gap if you will.

        If you had identified the amp or circuit it was in we could look the thing up for you.

        What is the component designation silk screened on the board by it? I bet it isn't "C" something.

        Is it shorted? is it actually bad? or do you just want to replace it because you don;t know what it is?
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #5
          Whatever it is--there are 2 of them next to the main Filter caps of a CTR Monitor

          They both have cracks on top--you can see the split in the pic. I'll look on the board to see if it says a C.

          thanks

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          • #6
            It is not a crack, it is a slit. it is part of the item.

            What is CTR?
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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            • #7
              My first thought also was a spark gap but the symbol more closely represents a Gunn diode. I'd guess he meant CRT but that's only a guess. And if it is a CRT monitor, that would lean more towards a spark gap than a Gunn diode as I don't believe anything in there should be running at 10GHz or so...
              Last edited by icefloe01; 03-03-2009, 11:31 AM.

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              • #8
                dollars to donuts it's in the flyback circuit of a CRT monitor. They are sometimes used as a high voltage bleed off...if the voltage gets above a predetermined level set by the size of the gap on the top, it arcs to ground and discharges off the excess voltage in the flyback circuit...

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                  It is not a crack, it is a slit. it is part of the item.

                  What is CTR?
                  A CTR is a Certified Total Retard..which would be Me

                  Its funny because in many monitor forums they did not know what this part was but I thought since I got great help fixing my amp here I'd post here for identification. Those dingbats had me spinning in circles. Finally I did a crash course in CRT's and found my problem must be the vertical IC or its surrounding caps. I replaced the caps and my picture filled the screen again with no distortion on the bottom.

                  But a few hours later I could see the problem coming back a bit. So I changed the V IC and a cap and it was norm again. Next day it started again--so it seems something is shorting out the vertical section from outside. I replaced the main filter cap(the pic was not the flyvback but the main FC).

                  Anyway I though the part was a cracked cap--but now I know better

                  thanks guys
                  Last edited by alien; 03-04-2009, 01:11 AM.

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                  • #10
                    I have also worked in the arcade business for many years, and all those arcade games have video monitors runnning 16 hours a day. Big old CRT based monitors. BY FAR most problems are dreid out electrolytic caps. In fact a couple companies sell "Cap Kits" for monitor models. Each is just a collection of the various values used int he circuit. Basically replacing all of them. it solves 90% of the p-roblems.

                    Look at your board. ANy caps with the plastic cover on the cap shrinking back? Replacce them. You replaced as couple caps in the circuit, replace the rest. Don;t forget that little 1uf/50v one behind the V driver heatsink (or whatever). You may have vertical caps spread around too, not all right together. Watch part number series for example.

                    And if it takes warming up to show the symptom, get a can of freeze spray and selectively cool areas to look for a sensitive part. If you freeze a part and the picture snaps back to normal, there you go.
                    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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