Help finding screw - 10-32 thread, half thread, set screw

[belwar]

Apparently we don't like leaded steel for pickups? So says Mr Possum.
You can have any grade annealed and then burn some of the carbon out of it for good measure.

Ooh that looks pretty, I'd take a small pile of those off your hands if you decide to go big.
You should try posting that on RFQWork.com- Online Quotes from Machine Shops, Fabricators, Molders, Stampers, Casters Forgers and more! - Powered by vBulletin and see what sorts of bids you get.

Troll.

:>

I'll count you in for screws! It took me FOREVER to figure out how to draw threads... Then I found a clip on youtube.

[Possum]

....

Yes you have to be careful in buying stock parts, the set screws I looked at are hardened, if you want shrill treble thats the way to go, not me.

[Bruce Johnson]

Matt;

One possibility for making up the part that you have drawn up is to start with a button head socket head cap screw. This will have the small size Allen hex socket, that is smaller than the diameter of the shank. You'd have the OD of the head ground or turned off, bringing it down to the shank diameter. It would also leave the slight dome on the tip that you have shown.

You'd also start with a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" long screw, and trim off the end to leave the amount of threads that you want. It varies with manufacturer, but generally socket head series machine screws have a maximum of 1" of threads. So, a 1 5/8" screw would typically have 5/8" of straight shank and 1" of threads.

[David Schwab]

David S,

You know I think I might go to the work of having those screws made. I'm going to have a couple of people quote it out and see what I come up with. I actually like the idea of using that small 1/16th allen screw.. It gives you lots of mass at the head, and eliminate cover scratching from a flat head. I'd split and order with you if you want some. I'd probably do a small run like 10-20k.

I'm in!

Slot head screws are evil! I use phillips heads on the few humbuckers I make.

Whats strange is the pickup is all metric, but the screw is imperial!

If I do have a batch made, id want to have the screw analysed to find out the alloy. Could hurt, though its probably standard low carbon steel, possible quick machining steel.

I noticed that. I bounce between the two so often these days that I guess I didn't think it was odd. I just switch my caliper between the two and see what's closest to a whole number!

Millimeters are very handy.

[David Schwab]

I spend a few minutes tonight drawing the screw.. I imagine this doesnt exist.

David S - Does it look pretty accurate to you? am I missing any details?

Matt

That looks good to me!

[belwar]

im going to pull one of the screw out of the mk iii later today. I dont think they are the sam screw. I think they taper down at the button to something like 1/8

[David King]

Bel, a photo of that MKIII and/or the screw would be great.

Knowing the alloy and then finding the same alloy could be a longer term proposition.

I like Bruce's dome head screw idea for short term testing without having to commit to 10,000 pcs. The 10-32 dome heads I have here use a 1/8" key which is probably too big a hole for this unfortunately.

[belwar]

Bel, a photo of that MKIII and/or the screw would be great.

Knowing the alloy and then finding the same alloy could be a longer term proposition.

No problem. What do you want photos of? Give me a very specific list.

As for the alloy, and locating it.. why do you say that?

The alloy will be analysed in a week & a half, and if its common material, ANY good screw maker will have it. The keepers i'll make my self from whatever steel they are.

[belwar]

Here's the keeper bar. What a pain i nthe ass to draw the threads.

[David King]

Bel,
I have no idea what a "mark III" is so I'll let it go at that.

[Bruce Johnson]

Another dumb question:

What's the reason that you need the straight unthreaded section on the screws? Is it just for looks, or is it something else?

How about taking a standard 10-32 Allen head setscrew, turning down the upper portion a bit, and then pressing on a piece of steel tubing?

[Joe Gwinn]

Yes you have to be careful in buying stock parts, the set screws I looked at are hardened, if you want shrill treble that's the way to go, not me.

Set screws are always hardened, by definition. But they are cheap if you buy by the hundred, and anneal them in an oxygen-free atmosphere. The standard trick is to fill a length of black iron pipe with pipe caps at both ends with screws, plus some paper to burn and use all the oxygen. Put the assembly in the furnace until it glows red for a while, allow to cool slowly. The annealed setscrews will be dead soft, and useless as set screws, but perfectly good as polepieces.

[David Schwab]

The annealed setscrews will be dead soft, and useless as set screws, but perfectly good as polepieces.

Would you still be able to adjust them?

[Joe Gwinn]

Would you still be able to adjust them?

Yes, the threads will survive undamaged (unless too much oxygen manages to avoid the burning paper). The threads will be softer than 1018 steel, but for height adjustment will be plenty strong enough.

[Bruce Johnson]

Hardening the setscrew changes the tone of the pickup??? How is that possible? It's the same piece of metal, with the same dimensions and same chemical composition. Are you saying that annealing it will change its magnetic properties?

If you're seeing a difference, it's got to be because you're comparing a hardened screw of one alloy with an unhardened screw of a different alloy.