Baffle screws

[RudeBoy]

How does one secure a rear-mounted loudspeaker's mounting screws to the baffle? The only thing I could think of (which is too much work so I don't want to do it), is T-nuts from the front into which studs are epoxied from the rear.

What's the easy way?

-- Bradley

[Chuck H]

The only thing I could think of (which is too much work so I don't want to do it), is T-nuts from the front

That sounds right to me

into which studs are epoxied from the rear.

I don't get this. What's being epoxied, and why???

What's the easy way?

I've done it two ways. One is with T-nuts in the front. You just drill the right size hole and stick in the T-nut and bolt in the speaker. The other is to just use a screw and a nut/washer for the mounting.

I actually prefere T-nuts for the long haul because it's easier to service the amp. But the easiest way is to just use a screw w/ nut/washer. The reason is that with the T-nuts I sometimes have to cut the mounting screws so they don't hit the grill cloth.

Chuck

[RudeBoy]

(much snippage of unclear original posting)

The only thing I could think of (which is too much work so I don't want to do it), is T-nuts from the front into which studs are epoxied from the rear.

I don't get this. What's being epoxied, and why???

I want the baffle to have threaded studs extending into the cab interior. The driver would be mounted with the threaded studs extending through the mounting holes in the driver frame and the frame would be attached with nuts and washers. I was hoping there might be some hardware I don't know about to do this. If not, perhaps I'll go with T-nuts in the front side and machine screws from the rear.

-- Bradley

[J M Fahey]

I guess what you want is the old Fender speaker mounting style, as in old Twins and others.
They had screws permanently mounted to the speaker baffle, front-to-back, the studs extended ito the interior of the baffle, they had conical points to "ease" the speaker mounting and generally made me nervous because it was easy to puncture the speaker cone.
If you speak about that, they were specially made screws, with a somewhat thinner stud end, conical pointed tip, "normal" thread to take a regular nut to mount the speaker, and a "base" section, towards the head, slightly thicker, with "reverse thread", so the more you tighten the nut, the more the screw bites the wood.
I don't know whether the body was held into the wood just by friction, or if they had an extra drop of glue to help.
I have used regular screws, mounted front to back into somewhat tight holes so they bite the wood, applying a little epoxy to the threads on the outside, between wood and head, before they are fully seated .
I ground their tips somewhat conical, obviously before mounting.
*Maybe* somebody sells the original Fender type screws, don't know.

[Tom Phillips]

Adding to JMs post I'll add...

The original Fender method did not use any glue on the screws. They were 8-32 flat head machine screws. (no reverse thread on the base) I have never found a source for screws with he conical point but I have been successful using regular screws. I found some black ones at a local supplier. Friction fit into a slightly under size hole works fine. I don't use backing nuts.

If the screws have become loose on old Fender amps then I repair them by adding a little epoxy glue.

For custom builds I favor t-nuts. As previously mentioned you then need to be careful with the final screw length. Note that t-nuts can be a problem with thin baffle boards. The original Fender method was adequate and satisfied their need for a low cost construction. You do have to be careful not to punch holes in the cone when mounting the speaker.

[Tom Phillips]

Bradley,

I just looked through my photo files of old Fender amps and at some old damaged Fender baffle board screws that I saved. None of them had conical points. I have seen the pointed screws but I think the regular tipped machine screws were more commonly used.

To answer your original question just drill and undersized hole, countersink the front side and screw in an 8-32 machine screw. Experiment on some scrap wood to get the feel.

Regards,
Tom

[J M Fahey]

Hi. Thanks for the clarification.
I got that info from *somebody* who was offering them on the net, impossible to find that link now.
Anyway I asked a screw manufacturer if something like that could be made, and he said "sure, no problem at all", only I had to pay a setup fee and order at least 5000 of them.
Personally, as stated, just used regular screws, with a drop of epoxy to play it safe.
I distinctly remember pointed screw tips and even more distinctly (ooops!) punching some cone, which was promptly repaired with a drop of carpenter's glue
Thanks.

[RudeBoy]

Thanks. I'll try the 8-32 flat head machine screws with epoxy to set them.

-- Bradley

[Mark Black]

Are these the "original style" screws you are looking for?

This is an enlargement of a picture found here:

Amplifier Hardware@Vibroworld.com The Source for Discount Tube Guitar Amp parts, Worldwide Shipping, News and Information.

About 3/4 down the page. Has the combination 8-32 machine threads combined with a short section of apparently reverse wood-screw threading.

A Google search for "Fender speaker mounting screws" brought up that site and quite a few more...

[RudeBoy]

Angela Instruments has two kinds on ebay. Couldn't find them on their web site through. There are the ones discussed earlier with the reverse wood threads by head. The second type are intended to be installed by hammering them in from the front (I'm guessing).

[Bill Moore]

I saw this source a while back. Speaker Builder's Supply Home Page They have the old style with the vertical flat.

[Glass Snuff]

I guess what you want is the old Fender speaker mounting style, as in old Twins and others.
They had screws permanently mounted to the speaker baffle, front-to-back, the studs extended ito the interior of the baffle, they had conical points to "ease" the speaker mounting and generally made me nervous because it was easy to puncture the speaker cone.

*nod*

My vote would be for t-nuts and machine screws. The only reason I can think of for using studs is if you want to install a speaker with the cab in a vertical position, which might have been the case on the assembly line.

[Tinkerer]

On my speaker installations, I use 1 1/2" X 3/16" NC taper head machine screws which I screw through a 1/8" hole in the baffle board. They snug up good and tight, then mount the speakers on the 'studs', held on with flat washers and nylock nuts. I then paint the screws when I paint the baffle.
Alternatively, if you want them already black.
Mojo Screws Fender Style Speaker Mounting Screws

Hope this helps,
Tinkerer