Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Repairing Carvin x100b, have a few questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Repairing Carvin x100b, have a few questions

    Hello everyone. I was recently given a pretty much trashed Carvin x100b by the guy I fix amps for. He said if I could fix it I could keep it, and I really want to fix it because I love the working ones that I've played. I don't know what year it is, but it's a 6l6gc model with 470 ohm screen resistors and no bias pot. It is a "pull high lead" version before the "hot rod" mod was put it. I have a few questions about it since I'm not very familiar with its innards and haven't fixed an amp this damaged before. By the looks of it, one of the power tubes cooked when it was last used and left a bunch of black char all around that socket and burnt some solder traces. I've fixed up the burnt traces and replaced the failed screen resistor for that tube. So here's my questions:

    1. I don't own a variac or any kind of adjustable power supply, so is there a safe way I can test and make sure all the proper voltages are showing up in the right places? Would it be safe to just plug in and turn it on without tubes and make sure all the tube pins show proper voltages?

    2. I know that sometimes when a power tube blows, it can take the output transformer with it. There's no visible damage to the OT or any charred wires near it, and all the windings show continuity, but is there a way I can be 100% sure?

    3. From what I've read, all I need to do to add a bias control is to replace R127 (see schematic link at bottom) with a 100k or 250k trim pot? Correct?

    4. How do I bias this amp? Where do I take readings from? I've never owned or had to bias a push-pull tube amp before so this is new to me.

    5. Assuming everything else checks out, I have some used tubes here I can test with (they still measure as "good" on my tube tester). My question arises because I only have 2 6l6gc's, and they are from different manufacturers (randall and bugera). If I get it up and running I will probably run it with 2 tubes in a 50watt mode to avoid using the charred (outer) power tube socket just to be safe either way. With the added bias control, is it safe to use 2 unmatched tubes so long as I bias them to behave the same? To do the 2-tube 50watt mode properly, I set the output impedance to half of the actual impedance correct? Ie: set it to 4 ohm if I'm using an 8 ohm cab, or is it the other way around? Also, how about the adjustable power selector? Is it safe to leave it set at 100watt or should it be set at 50/25 watt?


    Please forgive me for asking so many questions, I just want to double check with some experts before I go doing random stuff and potentially blowing things up. Any help is greatly appreciated!

    Here's a link to the schematic: http://www.carvinmuseum.com/pdf/amps..._schematic.pdf

  • #2
    That amp isn't old enough to require a variac for power up.....don't worry about it.

    Now you have charring on the socket itself or the board where the socket solders down? Either way you have a problem. If its the socket that got flamed out, pull it out and replace it. Don't try to clean it and re-use it. If its the board, yer kinda hosed. That charring is carbon and conductive....high voltage will fly right thru it. Since the whole amp is built on 1 big PCB, there's no option to replace the output tube pcb or hardwire and eliminate the pcb altogether. To make the amp useable you'd have to cut that burned part of the board out (be sure to jumper any traces that don't go to that tube socket). If that won't work... its a carcass. The option is there to have it rebuilt using turret or eyelet boards into any amp you want.

    So...I guess I'm saying don't worry about any of the other stuff until you get *everything* burned good'n outta there. Then attack other areas. To bias should be in the ball park as it sits.

    Got a pc board revision? Its printed on the board....should say "PCB1011c" or something like that.
    The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....

    Comment


    • #3
      Well, here's some pics I just took so that you can see for yourself. The flash certainly illuminated a lot more char and problems than I thought there were...

      Imageshack - dsc01781p.jpg

      Imageshack - dsc01780h.jpg

      Imageshack - dsc01782j.jpg

      Imageshack - dsc01779y.jpg

      I don't suppose a damp cloth would do any good in wiping off some of that blackness eh? The only identifier I could find on the board as to the revision is "30-X100-4B"

      I guess I probably would be better off just salvaging the chassis + xformers and as many parts as I can and rebuilding it into something else. Damn, I really like the x100b :/
      Last edited by jaywalker512; 05-20-2010, 12:21 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Damn...thats pretty ugly. Without having it in front of me and doing some grinding of the fiberglas to see how bad the charring is I'd be hesitant to do much with it. I see 2 burned screen resistors just in the pix of that immediate area.

        You can't "clean" the burned areas.....it'll just arc again and in no time. You have to remove any trace of burned material and then some for safety. Its always a crapshoot.

        I gig a X amp and have for 15 years....but its not stock. I hate the way they sound stock, so I make several changes to make them sound "normal". But this head I gig out has never let me down....not once. So something was drastically wrong with that one.
        The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....

        Comment


        • #5
          I did one of those recently, the board was not quite as bad though. I think that a Fender socket will fit right into the board.

          I'd start by cleaning off whatever I could with cotton swabs and alcohol. A lot of what you see there is smoke damage and under it there will probably be clean circuit board. After cleaning assess how bad the board is burned. Dremel out any carbonized areas.

          If the damage is real bad, where you have to cut out a section of the board, you can patch in a new piece of board, kind of like patching drywall.

          A definite upgrade would be a set of all new ceramic sockets.

          Comment

          Working...
          X