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Single Ended 6V6/EL34/KT66/6550/KT88 Amp

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  • #16
    ¿ Output ?

    Originally posted by priesty View Post
    Hurricane - I havn't been able to borrow a scope to check output, but it was so loud when trying it through a Marshall 4x10" cab that you couldn't be heard when shouting to the guitarist! Amp runs with B+ of 440V at anode load of 5K and withEL34, about 30mA idle current.

    =======================

    Looks like a really ball buster of an amp and you made it rip up on a 4X12 cab - - I am interested

    Hope you can scope it even if its' only academic at this point

    easy man :

    Hurricane Ramon

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    • #17
      I like the adjustable cathode bias , i bet its sweet , you've put your own stamp on the looks too , well done mate .
      BTW , I put the hammond 125fse in a 600 champ at the end of changing to a weber alnico speaker and various cap make tries and changes . That OT really opened the whole amp up , its nice isn't it ?
      My father said " don't let the world change who you are" i was surprised as i felt it was probably a very good idea

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      • #18
        priesty, one question please, if I may, about the decal work.

        The decal paper is opaque on the back. How do you align the decal over the chassis so it's perfectly aligned horizontally and with the pots, etc? If you don't mind sharing that little secret, of course.
        Valvulados

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        • #19
          Thanks for sharing, overtone. I'll try some experiments, hopefully soon if my day job allows me, and will share the results as well.
          Valvulados

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          • #20
            Originally posted by jmaf View Post
            priesty, one question please, if I may, about the decal work.

            The decal paper is opaque on the back. How do you align the decal over the chassis so it's perfectly aligned horizontally and with the pots, etc? If you don't mind sharing that little secret, of course.
            Jmaf - I call it my "Laser Eye"! Seriously though, the beauty of water slide decals is they don't stick instantly, and so can be repositioned (literally slid about) until you are happy with the positioning.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by spark_right View Post
              I like the adjustable cathode bias , i bet its sweet , you've put your own stamp on the looks too , well done mate .
              BTW , I put the hammond 125fse in a 600 champ at the end of changing to a weber alnico speaker and various cap make tries and changes . That OT really opened the whole amp up , its nice isn't it ?
              Spark_right, you are right, the 125FSE is a great unit, I'd use it again. It goes to show that Big Iron = Big Tone!

              Comment


              • #22
                Hi priesty, you can slide them around after you've removed the backing paper? I've never used decals and would like to try it, I'm sorry for the newbie questions.
                Valvulados

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by jmaf View Post
                  Hi priesty, you can slide them around after you've removed the backing paper? I've never used decals and would like to try it, I'm sorry for the newbie questions.
                  Yes, slide off the backing paper onto the surface you want to put them onto and then slide around to get precise location. You might need to leave it a coupel of hours to dry, depending how warm/cold it is. Using tepid water helps too.

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                  • #24
                    Thanks for all the useful info and great pics - really interesting.

                    Could I ask where you sourced the 1K 3W bias pot? I have been looking around and all I see are very expensive ($30 and up) choices.

                    I like how you made the bias meter switchable, too.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by RWood View Post
                      Thanks for all the useful info and great pics - really interesting.

                      Could I ask where you sourced the 1K 3W bias pot? I have been looking around and all I see are very expensive ($30 and up) choices.

                      I like how you made the bias meter switchable, too.
                      I use Farnells for my components, you can use their website to select the exact specs you need for the components. I'm in the UK, but I think they have US stock too. Of the top of my head, the bias pot was about £7 (circa. $10).

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                      • #26
                        Hi all,

                        I've finally got some video footage of the Gazeyfier in action, enjoy!

                        YouTube - gazeyfier

                        Priesty

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I have a couple of comments.. I like the fact you put your fuses on the A/C primary.. If you could find a power switch that was double-pole for both A/C hot and A/C return, that would be spot-on for handling primary power.. Otherwise, looks and sounds very good....

                          -g
                          ______________________________________
                          Gary Moore
                          Moore Amplifiication
                          mooreamps@hotmail.com

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by mooreamps View Post
                            I have a couple of comments.. I like the fact you put your fuses on the A/C primary.
                            ????
                            As opposed to putting them on top of the cabinet or in the volume pot wiper circuit?? Or what?

                            OF COURSE at least one fuse goes in the AC power primary. It's a matter of safe AC power wiring to always use a primary fuse, unless you have tested and type-certified the power transformer to have limited fault currents and heating. Not putting at least one fuse in the primary is a huge safety/fire hazard.

                            Saying "I like the fact that you put your fuses on the A/C primary." is like saying " I like the way that you keep your rifle muzzle pointed away from other people and yourself." This is one of those little IQ tests that Mother Nature sets out for us. The punishment for failing the test is often removal from the gene pool.

                            Two fuses is more problematical. One of these primary fuses will always blow before the other, as there is no good source I can think of for matched fuses. So if and when one blows, you now have to examine both to find out which one blew, and to find out of the second one was damaged by the overcurrent. If you have a line/neutral power line setup, the fuses always go in the hot/line side of the AC power.

                            If one is going to put in more than one fuse, it would be smart to put one fuse in each secondary winding. This protects the power transformer, the single costliest item in most amps, from secondary overloads, as no primary fuse can do. Don't you agree?

                            If you could find a power switch that was double-pole for both A/C hot and A/C return, that would be spot-on for handling primary power.
                            Yes, breaking both line and neutral is a good idea for any power setup, but it's practically mandatory where the AC power line has only floating lines on both side, neither being a neutral. If you have only two wire power, a blown fuse can still leave the amp insides hot to the remaining power wire. It's important to know WHY you do things too.
                            Amazing!! Who would ever have guessed that someone who villified the evil rich people would begin happily accepting their millions in speaking fees!

                            Oh, wait! That sounds familiar, somehow.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by R.G. View Post
                              ????


                              If one is going to put in more than one fuse, it would be smart to put one fuse in each secondary winding. This protects the power transformer, the single costliest item in most amps, from secondary overloads, as no primary fuse can do. Don't you agree?
                              Ahmmmmmm, no.. It's actually a great source of entertainment for my colleges at work ; when they hear things like ; when the short circuit current is higher on the primary winding than the secondary winding, yet some people choose to put fuses on the secondary winding..

                              -g
                              ______________________________________
                              Gary Moore
                              Moore Amplifiication
                              mooreamps@hotmail.com

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                ¡ Some Crunch !

                                Originally posted by priesty View Post
                                Hi all,

                                I've finally got some video footage of the Gazeyfier in action, enjoy!

                                YouTube - gazeyfier

                                Priesty
                                ================================

                                Simply put .........Wow a seriously piece of work with an impressive sound .

                                Lets see and here more

                                HR

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