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RAT Troubleshooting

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  • RAT Troubleshooting

    Hi,

    Recently got my hands on a long neglected RAT distortion pedal which had intermittent sound coming out of it. I found cracks in the solder traces from the small PCB on the 3PDT switch. So to fix I ran jumpers from each pole on the board to its corresponding part on the switch.

    For the most part the problem is solved. She turns on and off and functions properly except for two things. It POPS loud as hell now when it is engaged and the LED is never really off, it always glows slightly.

    I ran some continuity tests with the multi-meter and the switch is not reading what I would expect.

    If I am thinking of each vertical row of 3 poles as its own switch, then I am getting bleed over from Switch A to Switch B but only on one setting. When I hit the switch again then continuity is broken. So it looks to me as if the switch is making 2 connections, the one that should be made vertically but also another horizontally.

    Bad switch or bad wiring is what this whole narrative is about I guess? Should I drop a new switch in there or is there something that I could have overlooked?

    Thanks,
    Mr.

  • #2
    Which model of the RAT is this? I haven't seen every model they ever made, but the ones I have seen all use DPDT switches, not 3PDT. How many terminals does the switch have?
    -tb

    "If you're the only person I irritate with my choice of words today I'll be surprised" Chuck H.

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    • #3
      3PDT Fixed!

      Hi,
      It has 9 terminals which are connected to the main PCB by 6 jumpers and a second, small PCB soldered straight to the switch terminals. I was told it is an early 90's RAT pedal.

      UPDATE:
      I had a new switch installed and all is working properly. Thanks again for taking the time.

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