Hi, the rubber tube mounts are a pain, I usually replace them with small rubber grommets(the ones that allow wires to pass through metal chassi) but the lower tube Ro3 is probably beyond your competence. There is a small eyelet inside the rubber mount through which the retaining screws pass which is required when fitting a replacement grommet.
I remove the screws and eyelet, then pull out all of the rubber mount and fit the grommets using contact glue to keep them in place. The grommets won't be as flexible as the original rubber but I haven't experienced any issues.
The biggest problem that I usually encounter when doing this type of repair is the damage to wiring etc that I cause because of the limited access. So be careful!
The light bulbs are screw type bulbs and their sockets are held in place by a single screw which you can see on either side of the switch bank. The bulbs are a 7 volt variety but can be replaced with a standard 6.3V type.
The motor noise could be caused by a dry bearing on the bottom of the motor. This can be accessed by removing the small white retaining plug after removing the internal circlip. I use graphite or molybdenum grease. Resetting the screws which hold the motor to the chassis may also be beneficial as sometimes these have been un-evenly tightened.
Have just got one of these units on the workbench for a complete overhaul, should be fun!!??
Cheers, Mickey
I remove the screws and eyelet, then pull out all of the rubber mount and fit the grommets using contact glue to keep them in place. The grommets won't be as flexible as the original rubber but I haven't experienced any issues.
The biggest problem that I usually encounter when doing this type of repair is the damage to wiring etc that I cause because of the limited access. So be careful!
The light bulbs are screw type bulbs and their sockets are held in place by a single screw which you can see on either side of the switch bank. The bulbs are a 7 volt variety but can be replaced with a standard 6.3V type.
The motor noise could be caused by a dry bearing on the bottom of the motor. This can be accessed by removing the small white retaining plug after removing the internal circlip. I use graphite or molybdenum grease. Resetting the screws which hold the motor to the chassis may also be beneficial as sometimes these have been un-evenly tightened.
Have just got one of these units on the workbench for a complete overhaul, should be fun!!??
Cheers, Mickey
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