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Fender Hot Rod Deluxe Drive/More Drive switching problem

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  • #31
    Seem to be intact is not the same as proven to be. If in doubt, resolder. I suspect your spray is chilling the board for a moment and affecting this.

    Your LED might be perfectly soldered, but that doesn't mean the LED itself is not defective. It is a dual LED. When you see a green it means red is not working. There is no green indication, green is only there to combine with red to make yellow. SO for gain you see both LEDs on to make yellow. TO go to red for More Drive, they turn the green off, leaving red. If you get green showing up, that means red is not working. And that is enough to cause channel switching problems. I mentioned before the current to operate the relay goes THROUGH the LED. And if the LED doesn't work, then neither does the relay.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #32
      Hi,

      Tried resoldering the LED but still no success. So most probably the LED is defective. Do you know where to buy this Fender part?

      Thanks.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by g3misa View Post
        Hi,

        Tried resoldering the LED but still no success. So most probably the LED is defective. Do you know where to buy this Fender part?

        Thanks.
        If you need one, try a Fender dealer. But I suggest testing it before you assume that it is bad.

        Something that you never explained: Were the drive and more drive functions working before you cleaned the pots? Did cleaning the pots cause this or was this the problem from the beginning?

        Do you own a multimeter with at least voltage and resistance functions?

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        • #34
          Yes the drive and more drive was working before i cleaned the pots. The primary reason i opened it the amp up was to replace the input 1 socket. After replacing input 1 socket, that's when i sprayed the board with that Radioshack contact cleaner. When i tested the amp out, i noticed the more drive switching problem.

          Nope i don't own a multimeter.

          Thanks
          Last edited by g3misa; 07-12-2013, 10:50 PM.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Mick Bailey View Post
            I don't want amps coming back so I install aluminium resistors on the chassis and connect them with flying leads. Permanent fix. Once the resistor has become overheated it weakens the bond between the pad and PCB. Raising it off the board puts more strain on the joint and I think silicone impedes heat dissipation from the resitor body, causing more heat to travel down the legs.

            When they're burned up like this one I fixed a few months ago the tracks become detached as well;

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]23179[/ATTACH]
            Brilliant! I did a similar fix for a WT800 about 6 months ago, although not as beautiful as your work. I don't know why I didn't think of it for these damn 470ohm Fender issues. (yeah, I know I'm answering many ears after you wrote that suggestion Better late then never.

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