Sqiuer strat neck radius and the perils of changing a radius

[Slobrain]

Hey Fellas,

I checked on a couple of Squier strat necks and it looks like maybe they are radiusing the fretboard between a 9.5 to a 10. I checked a affinity neck and it looks like a 10 radius.

Maybe I'm wrong but it looks like the Squier builders (Indo Cortek or Samick) are not that critical on their specs.

Anyway I wanted to ask if anyone has ever changed a radius from a 9.5 to a 10 or 12 or is that too drastic on a squier neck. Also using a sanding beam or a radius block and the best methods that work well for any of you that get into
re-radiusing fretboards?

Reason I'm looking at doing this is I feel a 9.5 radius isn't that good for low string action and lots of string bending without fretouts.

Thanks

Slo

[jrfrond]

Reason I'm looking at doing this is I feel a 9.5 radius isn't that good for low string action and lots of string bending without fretouts.

Thanks

Slo

This is not true at all. Perhaps you'll have trouble down in the 7.25"r area, but 9.5" is entirely workable for low action and minimal fretting-out. Your frets need to be dead level and crowned to perfection, and you can also do a "hollow-grind" when leveling, whereas you work a slight compound radius into the frets themselves, which means that fret height decreases slightly as you go up the fingerboard due to a flatter radius. Or you can do "progressive" leveling, whereas you slope the fret height down slightly in the 12-fret+ area, where the fretting-out problems usually happen. Even if you choose to take the hard way out and re-radius the fingerboard (a lot of work for a Squier neck; I'd just get a Mighty Mite [by Cort] compound radius neck for around $100 off eBay), you STILL need to pay close attention to your fret manicuring after reinstallation.

Most fretting-out issues are NOT caused by fingerboard radius, but rather sloppy fret work. Good fretwork takes time, and THAT is not a commodity afforded in low-end guitars.

[Slobrain]

Hey John,

You’re right, I had to think about what I wrote after I wrote it. LOL....I think I got too accustomed to the Warmoth compound radius over the years. I remember from day’s way back having strat necks that had the 9.5 but not achieving the low action that I wanted. On Warmoth necks I can get the action so low it’s barely off the fretboard if needed. Back when I had the strat with the 9.5 radius I didn't know how to level frets so you make a good point. Surprisingly back years ago buying an American strat and the leveling on the frets wasn’t so good so I couldn't get the lower action I wanted. Actually I have a Squier affinity strat that I got from a pawn shop cheap recently and it has what looks like between a 9.5 to a 10 radius and the string action is a bit low on it. Not a bad neck for a cheapie strat.

I like the Warmoth necks for the compound radius fretboard plus they build in the slight fall away. I also like the Squier strat indo made necks too as they are cheap yet if you get a good one it plays well too plus they make a good candidate to learn and build refret skills on.

Your information is much appreciated John, too bad I'm not in the big apple, I would come by and visit and talk guitar work with you.

Thanks

Slo

[jrfrond]

This is what you need: FENDER LICENSED STRAT COMPOUND RADIUS GUITAR NECK MAPLE | eBay

The Mighty Mite necks are pretty darn good, and the right price too. For less that $100, you can't go wrong. I used one of these on a San Dimas clone that I built and it's straight as an arrow and stable. However, you'll need to upgrade the nut.