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Thread: SEEKING SCHEMATICS/HELP: Electro Harmonix / Sovtek SMALL STONE (Russian)

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    SEEKING SCHEMATICS/HELP: Electro Harmonix / Sovtek SMALL STONE (Russian)

    Does anyone have schematics for the Russian Small Stone?

    It has 4 chips:
    CA3094E
    H9540

    And 1 chip:
    CA3094E
    H9536

    It has been in my project pile for 1.5 years. Time to finish a few projects! LOL

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Old Timer J M Fahey's Avatar
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    I gues itīs just a traditional Small Stone which can be searched and found.
    Those 5 chips are all the same CA3094E , the second line is only a date code (and they are very close, within 4 weeks).

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    Quote Originally Posted by J M Fahey View Post
    I gues itīs just a traditional Small Stone which can be searched and found.
    Those 5 chips are all the same CA3094E , the second line is only a date code (and they are very close, within 4 weeks).
    Here is the genuine schematic
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Are you trying to repair one or build one?

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    Hello Mark!
    I am trying to repair one.
    I am a novice tech, excellent at soldering though, but not at troubleshooting and understanding/reading schematics. Here are some photos:

    Electronics Project Pile pictures by Little_Resistor - Photobucket

    I have added a new housing and LED. There are two wires that need to be soldered in 'somewhere', probably the 9v power input (missing) or the LED or both. I have not plugged it in to an amp yet (been in the pile for AWHILE) Some of the photos have descriptions too. There's also a white ground cable that needs to get attached to something inside... (?) as well as 3 leads that were clipped off the circuit board (hmmm)

    I bought this on eBay as a broken non-working pedal thinking foolishly I could fix it, but here I am tryin' at it again!
    Mary

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    There are some extremely worthwhile mods that can be done to the average Small Stone that will vastly increase its usability. Interested?

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    Definately interested in getting this pedal up and running. I'd like to get it to work before mods though, but let me know... What kind of mods?!?

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    Somethine like these: frankenstone

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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor View Post
    Here is the genuine schematic
    I know this is an old thread but I'm searching for the same schematic. The PDF link posted here was blank. Anyone have one to share?

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    Master Destroyer nosaj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweatyk View Post
    I know this is an old thread but I'm searching for the same schematic. The PDF link posted here was blank. Anyone have one to share?
    Contact EH they will email you what you want.

    Thanks,
    nosaj

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Here is a repost of the file:
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Thanks Jazz. This one has the CA3094E chips in it. Someone has been into this pedal before. 2 wires were disconnected and taped off. One was coming from the LED. When I connected them the LED would stay lit constantly if the cables were plugged in. I guess to keep from draining the battery they did that. It looks like the stomp switch was replaced at one time and they probably have something out of place.

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Sounds like they used the wrong switch.

    It appears to be a 3PDT in the schematic.

    3PDT Stomp Switch | stewmac.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
    Sounds like they used the wrong switch.

    It appears to be a 3PDT in the schematic.

    3PDT Stomp Switch | stewmac.com

    Jazz it is a Fulltone 3pdt switch so it is correct. I believe the last hands in here did not reconnect the LED to the switch. Other than that the pedal functions. Hooking these 2 wires back into the switch should resolve that. It would take me a while if I tried to rewire the entire switch if it needed it. This is the version 1 of the Russian made pedal in which the PCB has no markings on it. Without those markings my schematic skills will be challenged and take me a while to wrap my head around it. Not impossible just time consuming for me. It's just not something I do on a daily basis. I will chime back in after I have had some time to work with it.

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    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
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    The LED is only supposed to be on then the effect is enabled - that is why it connected to the switch. Possibly the switch is partially broken and they is why the disconnected the LED.

    As far as battery drain is concerned, they used a 1.5 Kohm resistor in series with it to give about 5mA current. If you were to put is a high efficiency type you could probably reduce that to 1mA by changing the 1.5K to 7.5k for about the same brightness and a lot less drain on the battery.

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    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
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    Not sure if this is the correct version or not.

    Layout diagram:
    Attached Files Attached Files

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