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Who can bend me a chassis?

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  • Who can bend me a chassis?

    I need some help. I built the cab before I had a chassis and now I need a chassis size I cant find online. Also the sheet metal companies around me have lead times of 3-4 weeks and are expensive. I just need a 24x10x2.5 aluminum chassis. I priced box and pan brakes but I dont have the $550+ money right now. So can anyone on here bend me (2) chassis or link me to a place that can? Much appreciated!

  • #3
    Check the Hammond catalog.
    Or call PENN FABrication!
    Last edited by soundguruman; 02-09-2012, 03:47 PM.

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    • #4
      tedmich you da man! Helping me again. Dirty Dawg Amps hopefully will be the ticket for me. Great pricing also. I searched so long on the internet but couldnt find any custom chassis places. Ampage to the rescue!

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      • #5
        You might also try Penn Fab

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        • #6
          Hamilton metalcraft looks awesome.

          Any other places that might come to anyones mind for metal fab for guitar amp chassis?

          I was buying blank chassis but the price is too high now. I used to get them for like $70 but in the last couple months (tariffs?) it now costs over $100 per blank chassis. I was just getting blanks because it was cheaper and cutting them myself. Uh, now it's not so cheap.

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          • #7
            Are there any manufacturer's guitar amps that are long the lines of what you're looking for that come to mind? If so, you might try and find one that's a wreck, and gut it, clean it up, perhaps have a new front and rear panel cut to fit over the existing on to provide the new hole / connector / pot patterns needed.

            I miss the days of working for an audio manufacturer (BGW Systems), where I had access to the machine shop, having the 10 ft sheer, cut-off saw, press brake, Timesaver, spot welding, Hager Press, and working inventory of 16ga cold roll steel, 16, 14ga, 1/8" and 3/16" aluminum for panels. I sometimes could talk the head of the machine shop into programming the 30 ton punch press to knock out the patterns. But, I've also built chassis' out of cut 16ga aluminum, and drilled/tapped holes using 1/2" square aluminum extrusion to join panels together, built as though I was working with wood, and have made complete chassis' that way. Tedious, but, in one-of projects, it was the thrill of the chase.

            Most repair shops have a bone yard of old stuff that is kept around for.....who knows. Maybe just the right size, needing gutting and new paneling to adapt to your needs. Not quite like having a custom chassis folded up per your imagination. But, might be the right price. Just a thought.
            Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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            • #8
              Try these guys
              http://www.seasidechassisdesign.com/
              "UP here in the Canada we shoot things we don't understand"

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              • #9
                Look very similar, in materials, technique and finish to the ones I make for my own use.
                1.5 or 2mm aluminum , very close to #14 and #12Ga (aluminum) mentioned there, joined by riveting or screwing, no TIG/MIG welded corners (yet) , although that lies in the near future.

                Would have been glad se help sending 1 or 2 but freight and possible Tariff will most definitely turn cost unbearable.
                Only positive aspect is that by some miracle Argentina (and somebody else, was it Brazil???) have been excluded from Trump´s Aluminum Tariff war, go figure.
                Juan Manuel Fahey

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                • #10
                  When attempting something like bending (breaking) your own chassis I've considered that it's probably not necessary to weld the corner joints. A single tab with a screw or rivet would do for stability. Just make sure the seam isn't actually touching to avoid vibration issues. And then goop the fold over tab, also to avoid vibration issues. But if you needed someone to fabricate chassis completely punched then this doesn't work I suppose. Making a chassis, complete with punches is time consuming at the "amp builder guy" level due to equipment limitations. That alone is cost prohibitive because your own time shouldn't actually be free. And no shop will rig up to make one or two chassis, punched, for cheap. You could probably get a good price break at 100 units or something, but that doesn't apply for the small builder or prototyping.

                  I usually design around readily available Hammond boxes and punch/drill my own holes. In 2009 I needed a couple of custom chassis for some prototypes and had them done by a guy named Ron Work that I only learned about at another forum. He was just an email address and a reputation. The chassis were very nice, heavy gauge aluminum, large-ish with a front panel angle and many punches. They only cost me $100 a piece, which I thought was very reasonable. I haven't seen Ron referenced lately and I haven't had reason to contact him since then so I don't know if he's still around.

                  rkwork (at) tisd (dot) net
                  "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                  "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                  "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                  You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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                  • #11
                    Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
                    When attempting something like bending (breaking) your own chassis I've considered that it's probably not necessary to weld the corner joints. A single tab with a screw or rivet would do for stability. Just make sure the seam isn't actually touching to avoid vibration issues. And then goop the fold over tab, also to avoid vibration issues. But if you needed someone to fabricate chassis completely punched then this doesn't work I suppose. Making a chassis, complete with punches is time consuming at the "amp builder guy" level due to equipment limitations. That alone is cost prohibitive because your own time shouldn't actually be free. And no shop will rig up to make one or two chassis, punched, for cheap. You could probably get a good price break at 100 units or something, but that doesn't apply for the small builder or prototyping.

                    I usually design around readily available Hammond boxes and punch/drill my own holes....


                    Thumbs up on that.
                    Last edited by ric; 08-10-2018, 03:35 PM. Reason: shortened quote

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                    • #12
                      I think that the guy at Dirty Dawg went out of business years ago. Think his shop burned and he never started up again..There is a shop in little Rock arkansas that does good work and low cost...ZH Guitar parts..Not sure how to contact them...Has chassis listed on ebay. search for amp chassis and they will come up. Does not show custom chassis but I would bet he does. Also try www.frontpanelexpress.com
                      Last edited by mac dillard; 08-10-2018, 02:00 PM.

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
                        . . .

                        I usually design around readily available Hammond boxes and punch/drill my own holes. In 2009 I needed a couple of custom chassis for some prototypes and had them done by a guy named Ron Work that I only learned about at another forum. He was just an email address and a reputation. The chassis were very nice, heavy gauge aluminum, large-ish with a front panel angle and many punches. They only cost me $100 a piece, which I thought was very reasonable. I haven't seen Ron referenced lately and I haven't had reason to contact him since then so I don't know if he's still around.

                        rkwork (at) tisd (dot) net
                        Wow, 100 bucks for a custom made chassis, that's a steal for what Ive been hunting for. I found non custom made ones for 70-80 range, but you don't have any control over dimensions, it's whatever they got.

                        As crazy as I am with 'stuff', always wanted to find a used, decent shape box brake, but .... I wouldn't use it very often, and my wife is at me to 'downsize'. frown, frown.
                        The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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                        • #14
                          Ahh, here's the guy:

                          http://www.juicyamps.com/chassis.html

                          He has a presence on Facebook. I contacted him a few times, At the time, he didn't do drilling, just chassis and laser marked faceplates. Year or so ago, prices were very good. Hundred bucks or so.


                          Sorry for another edit, check out the prices, very, very good:

                          http://www.juicyamps.com/pricing.html
                          The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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