Portable PA Peavey versus carlsbro

[ASPD01]

I am looking to buy a portable PA and the Peavey Escort 3000 looks to meet my needs. However there is also the Carlsbro Traveller which looks identical at roughly half the price. Anyone know if they are they same thing or what the shortcomings of the Carlsbro are?
Barry

[Enzo]

I am not familiar with the Carlsbro. I would be surprised if it was a Peavey seconds line. I would believe someone made a unit designed to look like the PV.

The one thing that matters to me, especially if I am going on the road, is serviceability. If something goes wrong next week, you can find a Peavey service center most anywhere you are. Carlsbro may have one across the street from you, but you ought to find that out. SOme companies have no service network at all, or want all service done at their place, wherever that might be. If you are in Nashville and they are in Idaho, you will be waiting a while for your amp.

Of course that assumes you are in the USA. But wherever you might be, the same question should be asked.

Here is a brief comparison on some forum
The Magic Cafe Forums - Peavey escort 2000 vs carlsbro traveller

As far as I can see, they have no US distribution

[ASPD01]

I am in UK so Carlsbro is quite common, however the comments about quality says it all and makes my decision I think. Thanks for that link which I had not found.
Barry

[soundguruman]

These type of systems are good for small rooms and acoustic guitar. Or maybe a DJ.
They are very low output power. Therefore, not really for a rock band.
Peavey has very good parts and service support. Carlsbro in the USA is not supported.

[ASPD01]

Thank you for the comments. I have rejected the Carlsbro but brought into consideration the Yamaha Stagepas. I have asked local warehouse to set one up alongside the Peavey for me to test, will report back on findings.
Barry

[soundguruman]

One thing about buying these small compact PA amps, in general.
Turn the amp on and let it run for an hour. Then feel the heatsink.
Is it getting really, really HOT? Too hot to put your hand on? Don't buy it.
Many of these amps destroy themselves from their own heat. Watch out for that.
They last long enough till the warrantee expires, then self destruct.
Spend more and get something that will last, with adequate cooling, preferably fan cooled.
The perfect example of a self destruct design is the Kustom KPSPM100 Mixer, which was really designed to run on 100 volts Japan.
It's actually a Sanyo product, that is relabeled 120 volts.

[J M Fahey]

Carlsbro is a very popular UK brand, found everywhere in the Islands.
Not classified as "good" simply because they always made relatively inexpensive equipment, but the ones I saw had a construction quality and technology similar to , say, Laney, not bad at all.
Part of its karma is that it is usually bought by beginners and non pros.
Crate in the USA carries a similar stigma, for about the same reasons.

[soundguruman]

Carlsbro is a very popular UK brand, found everywhere in the Islands.
Not classified as "good" simply because they always made relatively inexpensive equipment, but the ones I saw had a construction quality and technology similar to , say, Laney, not bad at all.
Part of its karma is that it is usually bought by beginners and non pros.
Crate in the USA carries a similar stigma, for about the same reasons.

The problem with crate is not stigma, it's smoke.

[J M Fahey]

To avoid wasting so much bandwidth with your useless posts, you should combine your obsessions into a single one.
Such as:

"Crate is cr*p because it´s made in Japan, it's really a relabelled Sanyo and actually made for 100V power lines, their chassis melt because they are aluminum made and Joe (who?) does not want to repair them"

[soundguruman]

To avoid wasting so much bandwidth with your useless posts, you should combine your obsessions into a single one.
Such as:

"Crate is cr*p because it´s made in Japan, it's really a relabelled Sanyo and actually made for 100V power lines, their chassis melt because they are aluminum made and Joe (who?) does not want to repair them"

The fact that the Kustom KPSPM 100 is actually a Sanyo "Profile One" Mixer, made in Japan, and designed to run on 100 VAC, is hardly my problem.
When it is relabeled for 120 volts, it tends to run hot as Hades, and blows the minus voltage regulator. I don't think that's my doing either.
Since the unit constantly overheats, when running on 120 volts, it may really be the one to avoid buying.
That is a great piece of info to pass on to some poor sucker who might accidentally buy one.

As far as crate is concerned, it's pathetic. But it is not my fault that it has widely earned the reputation as the least reliable product in this industry.
That honor goes to SLM. They built them (until recently) and can take most of the credit I think.

[soundguruman]

To avoid wasting so much bandwidth with your useless posts, you should combine your obsessions into a single one.
Such as:

"Crate is cr*p because it´s made in Japan, it's really a relabelled Sanyo and actually made for 100V power lines, their chassis melt because they are aluminum made and Joe (who?) does not want to repair them"

Posted By JH Fahey, 1-2-11, in the Music Electronics Forum:
(concerning Kustom Profile PA amp)

This page suggests some possible problems and solutions:
Kustom Profile One 100w PA -loud bang! - FixYa
although these seem to appear on all channels, not just one.
Of course, marginal PSU filtering might just barely make one channel oscillate and not the others, if the PCB layout was somewhat poor.
"Fully automatic" PCB layout programs look useful, but must be human checked .
Maybe this particular PA system had its fair share of problems, because it was discontinued, although they seem to have dumped remaining stock in Brazil and Argentina, they are everywhere around here.
No , have not had one of them yet.
If the channels use DIP 8 pin op amps, try bypassing pin 4 and 8 to ground with a .1 or .047 ceramic, or just pin 4 to 8. It may stop oscillation around that particular IC.
I suspect it may be an SMT board, ugh!!
Good luck.

But, Wrong, I'm afraid. The screeching oscillation is caused by a blown negative voltage regulator. The problem being documented and well known, by the manufacturer in Japan. (the advice posted on "fix ya" is generally uninformed and worthless)

Now, let us refer to Sanyo service bulletin 061031-1 Supplied to me by Bill O'Niel, the Official (factory) Kustom Technician: (and I quote)

Kustom Service Bulletin_061031-1_-15V Reg Failure_100W_SanyoModule-2.pdf

Products using 100 Watt Sanyo power module
When doing repairs that require replacing –15 regulators, verify R34 and 40 = 130
ohm 1W metal oxide resistor.
Symptoms of a bad regulator include a loud popping sound, and/or interrupted weak
output.
Serial number range that problem may exist is between 0310-xxxx through 0640-xxxx

Now please refer to the factory service PDF:

Kustom ECO_0343-1_Sanyo100W_Oscillation_21OCT03-1.pdf

Now, please refer to the Sanyo schematic:

Kustom PA mix 1.pdf

You will notice that the DC power supply for the +15 and -15 voltage regulators is labeled "36 volts" on the factory schematic.
BUT use you volt meter to measure the 36 volt supply (please). The actual voltage is: plus minus 43.2 volts. Gee wiz, why is this???

NOW use you variac to reduce the AC input voltage, from 120 volts, to 100 volts AC. (same as the line voltage in Japan)
Measure the power supply again.......... Whats the voltage reading? Gee wiz it's plus minus 36 volts, just as the schematic says it should be.

It's not hard to draw the conclusion that the unit was indeed designed to run at 100 volts AC.
When it is plugged into 120 volts, the input of the voltage regulator is over voltaged. The voltage regulator blows and the amplifier oscillates.

[soundguruman]

And now, we will begin to catalog all the products that were made to run on 100 VAC, that are relabeled and sold in USA, as 120 volts.

1. Digitech effects pedals. The plug-in AC adapter is labeled 120 volt input, 9 volt output.
BUT when we plug the power supply into 120 volts, and load the supply into the effects unit, the actual output voltage is 11.5 volts.
BUT when we run the supply on 100 volts AC, the output voltage becomes 9 volts, just like the label says it should be.
Gee wiz, why is the circuit board regulator overheating?

[J M Fahey]

Boy, how you LOVE to shoot yourself in your own foot.
Or to "spit at the sky", as I said earlier.

Now, please refer to the Sanyo schematic:

Kustom PA mix 1.pdf

You will notice that the DC power supply for the +15 and -15 voltage regulators is labeled "36 volts" on the factory schematic.
BUT use you volt meter to measure the 36 volt supply (please). The actual voltage is: plus minus 43.2 volts. Gee wiz, why is this???

NOW use you variac to reduce the AC input voltage, from 120 volts, to 100 volts AC. (same as the line voltage in Japan)
Measure the power supply again.......... Whats the voltage reading? Gee wiz it's plus minus 36 volts, just as the schematic says it should be.

It's not hard to draw the conclusion that the unit was indeed designed to run at 100 volts AC.
When it is plugged into 120 volts, the input of the voltage regulator is over voltaged. The voltage regulator blows and the amplifier oscillates.

Fact is, IN THE SCHEMATICS AND BULLETINS YOU SUPPLIED UNASKED, BY YOUR OWN WILL, the supply voltage quoted is +/-45V.
The +/-36V you mention exist only in your brain (or what's left of it):
Images kindly supplied by yourself:







To continue, you post 2 service bulletins.
NOWHERE they speak of PSU voltage problems, overheating, wrong power line voltage or any other obsession you babble about.

One of them is a normal service bulletin (like tons of others from any other Company) which explains the symptoms caused by a dead regulator (which can happen to*anybody*) No big deal.

The other one suggests that for stability reasons, the .1uF caps across the regulator input should be paralleled wit 47uF capacitors (which they did at the Factory above certain serial number). Big deal.
Absolutely unrelated to what you talk about in such an obsessive way.

To go on, I checked whether that amp is really "A relabelled Sanyo"
I googled: >Sanyo "Profile One" Mixer< .
I got About 4,910 results (0.21 seconds)
There was a grand total of 1 (one) hits agreeing with you: your very own post here.
None of the other 4909 ones even hinted at such association.
Of course, all of them may be wrong !!

To got on, I checked for user's opinions about its heating problems.
In Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Kustom Profile 1 PA Package with Roller Bag
There were 3 opinions.
2 of them claimed :

I purchased a year ago. I have put this system through tons of heavy gigging, indoors, outdoors, etc and It has performed great. ..... My system has never overheated, even on 100 degree patios here in the humid midwest.

I have had one of these systems for over 5 years and used it on many gigs. I have never had a problem with overheating.
In fact, I have had no problems. Gives great service for what it is. I have had other P.A., sound systems and this performs as good or better than them. Can't be beat for the price.

*BUT* there is a *very* angry man who sounds suspiciously like you.
He certainly shares some of your vocabulary and ideas.

This unit, from the factory, has severe thermal problems. It will overheat and shut down, even under light usage. There are updates that will reduce the temperature slightly, but the best recommendation is to install a cooling fan.
If you buy one of these, expect to pay $125 for updates and a fan to be installed. Otherwise is is essentially unreliable and useless.
A cute mixer, very badly designed. I would not recommend this product to anybody.

By any chance, are YOU the angry guy who signs " Michael Friedlander from California"?
If not, contact him, you have found a twin soul.

[Jazz P Bass]

And now, we will begin to catalog all the products that were made to run on 100 VAC, that are relabeled and sold in USA, as 120 volts.

1. Digitech effects pedals. The plug-in AC adapter is labeled 120 volt input, 9 volt output.
BUT when we plug the power supply into 120 volts, and load the supply into the effects unit, the actual output voltage is 11.5 volts.
BUT when we run the supply on 100 volts AC, the output voltage becomes 9 volts, just like the label says it should be.
Gee wiz, why is the circuit board regulator overheating?

Is that a 9Vac power pack you are refering to?
Typically, all Vac power packs run high, especially unloaded.
Why would you think that an extra 2.5 volts is going to kill a pedal?

[J M Fahey]

"12V" power packs typically have 16V unloaded, and so on.
Only a very inexperienced beginner would worry about that.