What is this called and where do I buy one???

[rhgwynn]

David, can I ask why you edited my post (#21)
I'm fairly certain that there was nothing in it that violated any forum rules

Maybe he thought he was misquoted somehow...

-Rob

[David Schwab]

Maybe you don't need larger magnets but I do Will those little magnets you use put a FULL and EVEN charge on an Alnico 2 bar magnet?

Yes they do. I charge alnico 5 magnets with those to full charge. Alnico 2s are weaker anyway. I prefer to buy my bar magnets charged. But I buy rod magnets uncharged.

I think you think you need larger magnets. Lots of pickup makers use neos to charge magnets, and you don't need big dangerous ones.

Each of those magnets I'm using has a surface field strength of 4,759 Gauss. The Brmax is 13,200 Gauss. The two of them together will increase the strength. So that's a pull force of about 32 pounds according to the specs the website.

That's more than enough to fully charge an alnico magnet. I have even made some weak ceramic magnets stronger.

I actually happened to use those 4 magnets because I was using them in some of my pickups, so they were handy, and they work perfectly. I didn't have a need to get larger magnets.

[David Schwab]

David, can I ask why you edited my post (#21)
I'm fairly certain that there was nothing in it that violated any forum rules

I was alerted to a typo in my post, which was also quoted in your post. All the words are the same, but one was misspelled by one letter so it meant something different.

[David Schwab]

That's the vise I bought. Works great. I also bought 2 - 1" x 2" x 3/8" N52 magnets for it. Holy crap I have never possessed magnets so strong! The came attached with a spacer and I could only get them apart with the vise (closing it on them then opening it back up), and even then, I had to pry them away from each other... These magnets will eff sheet up, like your fingers - just watch this if you dont believe me - the cherry tomato is your finger btw:

-Rob

I'm surprised they didn't shatter! I always keep the magnets stuck on a piece of steel. You don't want them loose on a bench top, or they will go sliding, and usually break.

I would not have bought magnets that big. Too much of a finger pinching risk. And believe me, I've been pinched quite a few times. Even the smaller neos I use in pickups can cause harm.

[Joe Gwinn]

I now use two 4" x 1" x 1/2" N50's and it has a combined pull of over 300 lbs. Very very dangerous.
Look at the drawing below and you will see a tiny roll pin that holds the moveable jaw to the screw. It simply fits in a grove (circled in grey) in the jaw screw. The Harbor Freight 4" vise has a cheesy little M6 screw rather than the roll pin. I'm not sure which is more dangerous but I don't feel at all comfortable using it/

See my above post Terry, they're just not safe with magnets big enough to fully charge bar magnets. Just flip one over and you'll see what I mean.
I have two more new 4" magnets but I'm waiting until I find a good quality used USA made bench vise to mount them to because I don't want to use my 60 year shop vise for a designated charger as I use it for many other projects and much more often than I charge alnico bars.

I'll say it again, a drill press vise is built to clamp down on materials, it's not built to hold back 100's of lbs of pull.

I'd be tempted to install an aluminum plate between the jaws to stop motion should the jay come loose from the screw.

If one has the machine tools, it wouldn't be hard to modify a existing vise or make a fixture with the moveable jaw better fixed to the screw, and/or that has the screw pushing the jaws apart.

[Stratz]

I'd be tempted to install an aluminum plate between the jaws to stop motion should the jay come loose from the screw.

If one has the machine tools, it wouldn't be hard to modify a existing vise or make a fixture with the moveable jaw better fixed to the screw, and/or that has the screw pushing the jaws apart.

I've pondered a safety stop of some sort for the setup I have now but if I do so then I wouldn't have the full 4" width of the magnets to work with.

I get a much more even charge on bar magnets and assembled Fender style bobbins by pulling one neo away from the work rather than sliding them through the neo's.

My Father has made me a lot of machined parts in the past such as face plates from 7075 aluminum and jigs for assembling F style bobbins with my arbor press. I hate to bother him but I suppose it's a lot better than getting my fingers crushed.

I have to do something either way because it's just too damn dangerous the way it is now.

Thanks for the input Joe.

[Joe Gwinn]

I've pondered a safety stop of some sort for the setup I have now but if I do so then I wouldn't have the full 4" width of the magnets to work with.

I get a much more even charge on bar magnets and assembled Fender style bobbins by pulling one neo away from the work rather than sliding them through the neo's.

My Father has made me a lot of machined parts in the past such as face plates from 7075 aluminum and jigs for assembling F style bobbins with my arbor press. I hate to bother him but I suppose it's a lot better than getting my fingers crushed.

If one has access to a machine shop, the best approach would be to modify a drill press vise, and it sounds like your father could easily do such a thing.

One can also make replacement jaws with a steel back and aluminum front, allowing the Neo buttons to be physically trapped, so they cannot fly free no matter what.

In the modification to ensure that the jaw cannot pull off the end of the screw, incorporate a roller thrust bearing, to make adjustment of jaw separation easier. McMaster-Carr

[Stratz]

One can also make replacement jaws with a steel back and aluminum front, allowing the Neo buttons to be physically trapped, so they cannot fly free no matter what.

In the modification to ensure that the jaw cannot pull off the end of the screw, incorporate a roller thrust bearing, to make adjustment of jaw separation easier. McMaster-Carr

Excellent idea on the steel back and aluminum front to hold the neo's . I'll have to think about the bearings. I only took a quick look at the parts so I'm not exactly sure how that would work.

Thanks Joe.

[soundguruman]

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[Joe Gwinn]

Excellent idea on the steel back and aluminum front to hold the neo's . I'll have to think about the bearings. I only took a quick look at the parts so I'm not exactly sure how that would work.

Use the thrust bearings as if they were washers, placed such that the magnet pull tends to compress them. There will be a nut keeping the whole thing from flying off the end of the screw. Use Lockite threadlocking compound to ensure that the nut cannot unscrew itself unless the assembly is heated.