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  • Flatwork Thickness Question

    I would like to know if there's any particular technical reason I wouldn't want to make the bottom flat work of a Strat bobbin 3/16" (.187) thick?

    I have used linen impregnated phenolic for a set and it's nice material. However, I am making them out of 3/32" (.093) sheet and the 6-32 taped holes
    for mounting only allow for 3 threads of engagement. That's sufficient but I'd rather have a few more threads in there. I have a set of pickups that came out of
    an American standard and they're the plastic bobbin type. What they did there was raise a boss about 1/4" diameter for the 6-32 location to create more threads.

    So anyway, I have a CNC milling machine and a few bucks to experiment with. To copy that plastic bobbin's design - using the raised boss feature on the flat work
    I'd have to start with .187 thick sheet and mill away material to get to the standard .093 thickness a lower bobbin flat work normally is; thus leaving .187 bosses but having every
    thing else at .093.

    But I got to thinking about the thickness of the lower bobbin flat work and I cannot think of a technical reason why the lower flat work couldn't be .187. I understand
    that the magnets would sit in blind holes cut to the correct depth and that I would need to relieve the area around the eyelets so I could use stock eyelets. But other than that,
    would the added thickness be of any concern? The only reason to leave it at .187 would be to save the milling operation that would produce the bosses. I really don't care either way
    since the machine is going to do the work - I like watching it do its thing. Anyway, I digress . . . any opinion would be welcome.

    Cheers!

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Hi Ron:
    Welcome to the Beginners/Hobbyist area.
    I have wound a lot of strat bobbins with regular forbon flatwork.
    Don't remember ever stipping a screw hole, but it could happen.
    I chuck a 6-32 tap in a cordless drill and tap the holes with it.
    Just go slow and don't run the tap to the end or the tap can strip the threads, but it works real slick.
    Don't see any problems with the thicker flatwork, unless room in the route is an issue.
    You will take up a little more room, but don't think that will cause any problems.
    Anyone else have any advice on bottom flatwork and screw holes?
    T
    "If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
    Terry

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    • #3
      Hey Terry,
      Thanks for the feedback (no pun intended). Yeah, the route was the only thing I could think of and that's not going to be an issue.
      The reason I was asking is because the material I want to experiment with is rather exotic: polyetherimide (Ultem: some fancy guitar picks are stamped out of .05 sheets of this). The material has got
      some fantastic properties and it is also quite beautiful: a transparent amber in color. I can get a .187 sheet of it and I just didn't want to machine away a bunch of material if I didn't have to. But I still might anyway.
      I agree with you about the threads: 3 should suffice and I don't think they'd strip out too easily in .093 material. Nonetheless, I'm just reinventing the wheel and a few more threads was what looked like a good thing.

      Go to 11: It's okay.

      Cheers!

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