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5F1 cathode resistor voltage extremely high

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  • 5F1 cathode resistor voltage extremely high

    Hello, I don't post here often, but I'm attempting my first build after having a bit more of a formal understanding on how all this stuff works. I'm having an issue with it, and google isn't quite leading me to an answer. It's a 5F1 champ. I gutted a Fender Excelsior amp that I never used, so I'm using the cab and chassis from that and I stuck a bunch of turret boards in it and it is what it is.

    The issue I'm having is that the cathode resistor has way too much voltage across it. The Power transformer I'm using is the Ted Weber W022772: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/022772sch.jpg

    with the RED/WHT 600V taps the B+ at the 16uF filter cap was about 350 volts, the 6V6 plate had 315V with respect to ground (261 with respect to the cathode), and the cathode resistor (470ohm) had about 55 Volts across it. I have a silverface AA764 champ, and according to that there should only be about 20V across the 470 ohm.

    I looked at the Ted Weber 5F1 schematic, and he used the RED 660V taps. I figured with higher voltages from there, a higher voltage on the plate would result, leading to higher plate current, thus a higher plate "resistance" and larger drop to the cathode, and the voltages would level off. That wasn't the case

    Currently I'm measuring 384V at the 16uF filter cap, 332V on the 6V6 plate (272 with respect to the cathode), about 280V on the screen grid, and 59V across the 470ohm (measured at 452ohms), as opposed to the 20 I'm looking for.

    I also noticed that on the AA764 schematic, since the 5F1 doesn't say anything about voltages, Fender only expected to drop 10V across the output transformer primary winding, I'm losing about 50V there. I'm not sure that has anything to do with it, but I thought it was unusual.

    Anyone have any idea what's going on here?

    Oh yeah. . . I'm not finished with the build either, I was just checking to see that everything was normal as I'm going along. By not finished I mean Only the filter caps and power tube and Power/Output Transformers are connected, and the tubes are plugged in. The preamp stages aren't linked in yet, as in the 6V6 control grid has nothing connected to it yet. Does this matter for the bias resistor? The OT is a weber W022905M, and the only deviation from the original schematic so far is that I have a switch between 4 and 8 ohm outputs.

  • #2
    What is the voltage on pins 5 of the (I assume) 6V6? It should be close to zero. Measure the AC volts across the speaker. With no signal it should be very close to zero, if not it could mean you have an ultrasonic oscillation. The cure for that is to reverse the primary leads to the output transformer.
    WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
    REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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    • #3
      Originally posted by MonkHouse93 View Post
      The preamp stages aren't linked in yet, as in the 6V6 control grid has nothing connected to it yet. Does this matter for the bias resistor?
      Oh yes it does. In order to actually bias the power tube grids need a 0VDC reference. Without it the tubes can "run away" (draw excessive current). This might explain the large voltages across the OT and cathode resistor. Don't turn it on again without connecting a 220k resistor from each power tube grid to ground. Then see how your voltages look.
      "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

      "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

      "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
      You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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      • #4
        I'm working on getting that connected now, thanks for the tip. Coincidentally, when I went to compare cathode voltages to my '75 silverface champ, that resistor blew out entirely Stuck another in there, measured 27 volts across it. Kinda high, but not absurd, it's expected when there's 430 volts coming off the rectifier, but that thing is another story. . . I'll report back when I finish making those connections, much thanks.

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        • #5
          Yupper. I blew up an RCA 6V6 testing a Vibro Champ once. 430Vp isn't too high for modern 6V6's most of the time, but only in AB1! For class A it's way too high. You can stick a resistor/zener circuit on the HV center tap to bring the voltage down a bit. A 10W 330R resistor parallel with a 5W (DO package) zener will drop 30V. The resistor does most of the work and the diode eliminates additional power supply sag. Mount it away from the cathode bypass cap and filter caps. Electrolytic caps don't like heat.


          EDIT: The resistor value is a guestimate. I used a SPICE type program to figure it and with a rectifier tubes resistance already in series it looks like 330R would be about right. But with a diode rectifier a 180R does the trick. Not sure why this is but don't be surprised if the resistor value needs to be tweaked. You want the resistor by itself to drop just under 30V. Then put the 30V zener across it.
          Last edited by Chuck H; 01-18-2014, 08:38 PM.
          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

          "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
          You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

          Comment


          • #6
            So everything is wired up, I checked with the schematic a few times, and with the layout too, even though mine involves two separate chassis (worst idea ever), just see where physically wires are placed. I didn't really have time to check the voltage on the 470 ohm 6V6 cathode resistor because the 6V6 itself kept making this fast clicking sort of noise, and then i saw a couple sparks and heard a few pops going on inside of it and freaked out and shut if off. loudthud mentioned ultrasonic oscillation and reversing the OT leads. I don't know what ultrasonic oscillation sounds like but the clicking was happening at low frequency, could this be the issue?

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            • #7
              The way you describe your wiring at this time I don't suspect oscillations. That light show you saw almost certainly means those tubes are toast. Adding grid to ground resistors wouldn't have caused that. Something else was changed, is wired wrong or was omitted from the available information so far.
              "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

              "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

              "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
              You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm at a loss here... I've been over the wiring so many times I'm pretty convinced I have it right. I took out the switchable output impedance in case something weird happened there and no luck. The clicking itself I discovered is coming from the output transformer, It's almost like a test pulse It doesn't happen until the 12AX7 goes in, which means it gotta have something to do with what's going onto the grid, pin 5, of the 6V6 from the pin 6 plate of the 12AX7. It has to be something simple I'm just overlooking...

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                • #9
                  Try Loudthud's suggestion of reversing the OT primary leads. The preamp tube does complete the feedback path. Also, the clicking from the OT could be due to oscillation.
                  Originally posted by Enzo
                  I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                  • #10
                    There is no mention of a 12ax7 being in the equation in your previous description of the wiring!?! In fact you said:


                    Originally posted by MonkHouse93 View Post
                    The preamp stages aren't linked in yet, as in the 6V6 control grid has nothing connected to it yet.

                    If there's more to the circuit in it's current state of test we need to know or we can't make informed suggestions about what's going on. So...

                    Do you have the power tube grids wired up to a 12ax7 PI circuit and is that PI circuit connected to the feedback loop??? This is REALLY the worst way to do this. That way where I need to ask about EVERYTHING to rule out ANYTHING!?!
                    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sorry guys, by everything is all wired up I meant the whole circuit is literally together now from input to output. I tried reversing the OT leads to no avail I'm gonna take fresh look at it tomorrow

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                      • #12
                        Alright, Update: I reversed the leads on the 1MEG volume pot, as in the side that connected to the coupling cap is now the ground side, and the ground side now connects to the coupling cap. I noticed today I had that backwards from the layout, I didn't think it made a difference but it does. Chuck you were right Oops. Now rather than pulses it squeals unless the volume is down. The layout says the blue wire goes to pin 3 on the 6V6 and the red goes to the B+ at the first filter cap, which is how I have it. A quick google search shows reversing these might help, but then it will be backwards according to the diagram, I guess that's an okay thing as long as it works? I'm going to find out in a few minutes, just thought I'd mention it. . .

                        Edit: reversing OT leads causes high pitched squeal with no volume, goes away with a bit of volume, then it becomes a tone generator as the volume goes up. Maybe there's too much wires running everywhere with this dual chassis thing
                        Last edited by MonkHouse93; 01-20-2014, 05:42 PM.

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