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  • Help!! Behringer pmp6000

    Friends please i need your help, I bought a behringer PMP6000 in USA, it is 110V and was connected by error to 240V, a few seconds and smoke, that I might have passed? That solution can have? Please help

  • #2
    RIP It's toast...
    A new one for $600...
    At Sweetwater.

    Comment


    • #3
      The power supply is a switch mode power supply that can be configured internally for 230 volts but if configured for 120, connected to 240, the problem is surely in the primary side of the power supply. It works by converting the AC mains directly to high voltage DC, without a power transformer. The high DC voltage is then switched on and off with some large power transistors at a high frequency, 500khz-2 mhz for most, and that high frequency energy can be sent to a small power transformer, much smaller and lighter than if the same power was run through a transformer at 50 or 60 hz, for the same isolated secondary power. With too high a supply voltage, look what is burned, probably some surface mount resistors connected to the primary side switching transistors. The transistors themselves might be damaged. The filter capacitors saw excessive voltage so they might have been damaged. There probably is not that much wrong with it but I warn you not to work on it. The primary side of the switching power supply is connected to AC mains and can be very dangerous to work on without experience and isolation transformer. If working on the secondary isolated side of the small power transformer, you would be a lot safer but that is not where the problem is. I would take it to a tech who regularly works on switch mode power supplies. Your average guitar amp tech is not usually a good one to take it to, they tend to not keep up with later electronics since most amps are pretty old technology. It should not be very expensive to repair.
      What country, since you mention 240 volts?

      Comment


      • #4
        melted power transformer, they won't sell you one.

        Comment


        • #5
          What evidence do you have that the transformer is melted? That is not a typical failure mode for a switch mode power supply, so why in this one case are you saying so definitely that it is the transformer?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by km6xz View Post
            What evidence do you have that the transformer is melted? That is not a typical failure mode for a switch mode power supply
            He probably thinks it's a linear supply. He certainly couldn't be bothered to read anyone else's posts, might clutter the mind with useful information. I'm fairly certain he does not work on switchmode supplies, nor have the ability or understanding.
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


            Comment


            • #7
              Ahhh......if only I had the ability to diagnose gear with 100% accuracy without even looking under the hood.
              "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                if only I had the ability to diagnose gear with 100% accuracy without even looking under the hood.
                sgm ptn (psychic tech network). About as accurate as any other psychic network.
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                Comment


                • #9
                  Check with Full Compass. They used to sell the entire smps boards.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've had a few items of US voltage SMPS equipment that's been used on 240v. A well-designed SMPS for international markets will more often than not automatically compensate for local supplies and will often come marked up as 90v-220v or 230v.

                    Some of the ones I've had with a specific 110v configuration have suffered similar damage when operated on 240v to ones that I see with damage from lightning surges. Sometimes you can be (very!) lucky and just the mains-connected protection components such as fuses and MOVs fail, as per their intended purpose. With quite a few designs where there's a voltage selector it flips the rectifier to a voltage-doubler configuration and if yours is one of these then it's likely that there are a few failed components on the primary side.

                    The main problem with SMPS repair is isolation, safety, loading and testing. It isn't a good idea to 'have a go'. If you don't repair all of it the first time round then it will blow again. When the switching transistors short, the PWM IC and feedback loop often become damaged as well as the startup components. You can go round and round chicken & egging it.

                    The typical scenario is; replace all the obvious failed components. Re-connect and switch on. Pop. Try again - replace all the obvious failed components, plus a few more possibles and one or two guesses. Switch on. Pop. Same again.......and again.....

                    It's quite likely that the connected circuits to the secondary are ok. I can't remember replacing a transformer in one - they're flash tested to way-over what doubling up on the mains can produce.

                    When you look at a SMPS block diagram it appears to be pretty straightforward, but there's a lot more complexity when you come to look at the actual circuits.

                    My advice is to take the entire unit to someone with experience of this particular equipment. Try to get a fixed-price for repair. If you get an power supply yourself and there are further problems, those will need fixing too. When the new supply is installed it needs a controlled startup and current-limiting to make sure it comes up ok, and the output voltages monitored.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      PMP6000

                      Originally posted by Mick Bailey View Post
                      I've had a few items of US voltage SMPS equipment that's been used on 240v. A well-designed SMPS for international markets will more often than not automatically compensate for local supplies and will often come marked up as 90v-220v or 230v.

                      Some of the ones I've had with a specific 110v configuration have suffered similar damage when operated on 240v to ones that I see with damage from lightning surges. Sometimes you can be (very!) lucky and just the mains-connected protection components such as fuses and MOVs fail, as per their intended purpose. With quite a few designs where there's a voltage selector it flips the rectifier to a voltage-doubler configuration and if yours is one of these then it's likely that there are a few failed components on the primary side.

                      The main problem with SMPS repair is isolation, safety, loading and testing. It isn't a good idea to 'have a go'. If you don't repair all of it the first time round then it will blow again. When the switching transistors short, the PWM IC and feedback loop often become damaged as well as the startup components. You can go round and round chicken & egging it.

                      The typical scenario is; replace all the obvious failed components. Re-connect and switch on. Pop. Try again - replace all the obvious failed components, plus a few more possibles and one or two guesses. Switch on. Pop. Same again.......and again.....

                      It's quite likely that the connected circuits to the secondary are ok. I can't remember replacing a transformer in one - they're flash tested to way-over what doubling up on the mains can produce.

                      When you look at a SMPS block diagram it appears to be pretty straightforward, but there's a lot more complexity when you come to look at the actual circuits.

                      My advice is to take the entire unit to someone with experience of this particular equipment. Try to get a fixed-price for repair. If you get an power supply yourself and there are further problems, those will need fixing too. When the new supply is installed it needs a controlled startup and current-limiting to make sure it comes up ok, and the output voltages monitored.

                      Thanks to all for the help, I am from Bolivia, here we use 220V
                      was using a transformer from 220V to 110V, transformer forgot and straightforward step 220v, is now a technician that I hope can fix it. They believe that you can get spare parts?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Repairing a SMPS power supply is a balance between how long it takes a technician to do a component-level repair, compared to replacing the entire power supply. It depends on how good/experienced/quick your technician is. Components are available worldwide, but a complete board may be more difficult to get hold of locally.

                        Any replacement needs to run off 220v, then you don't need the transformer. If your technician can repair the existing board, ask if it can be configured for 220v.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          SMPS U29 Schematic

                          My guess, and it is a guess mind you, is U1 took a hit.
                          http://www.dianyuan.com/bbs/u/36/1135072817.pdf
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            I didn't see the input or bridge circuit - Elektrotanya has it on P14

                            BEHRINGER PMP6000 SCH Service Manual free download, schematics, eeprom, repair info for electronics.

                            Say Manubol, did you check the mains receptacle fuse?

                            Also, it's clear that the PSU can be reconfigured for 230v, so when it gets fixed you won't need a transformer.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              On page 14 it is clearly described that there are three jumpers J1, J2 and J3: J3 has to be shorted for 230V, and for 120V J1 and J2 have to be shorted.
                              In such a case failure of the transformer is very rare. Usually what fails is: switching transistor, switching IC, main capacitors on the primary side, bridge, fuse. This should be easy to fix and I don't think that you need to buy a new transformer. Just do it carefully.

                              Mark

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