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How to port 15" sub enclosure

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  • How to port 15" sub enclosure

    I have a sub enclosure for a 15" speaker. It is quite beaten but I am replacing the baffle and back panel. Someone did a horrible port job on it. They just sawed several random holes in the baffle and the back panel looks like they tried several jack locations. This speaker is going in my garage and will be powered by crown. This will not be for FOH sound but for music and movies in the garage. I calculated the volume of the enclosure to be 4.4ft3.

    I would like to do a slot port. I just cant figure out how big the slot should be and how deep. Give me the scoop on what to do.

    Ideas for a speaker also welcome. Ive been looking at the eminence kappa and omega speakers.

  • #2
    I can't suggest a speaker but you will want to choose one before doing any port design. I've used online calculators and had good luck. Even if the calculator you use is for a round port some simple math using Pi can convert the port size to area rather than just diameter. Calculated depth should remain the same for any port shape.
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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    • #3
      The Eminence Kappalite 3015LF will be pretty happy in that enclosure volume, if the sticker shock factor is acceptable. I use WinISD for port modeling, but for shelves it typically specs a little on the long side. That's actually OK, you can just make a removable shelf extension and cut a few trial panels until you get what you like.
      --Charlie Escher

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Passinwind View Post
        The Eminence Kappalite 3015LF will be pretty happy in that enclosure volume, if the sticker shock factor is acceptable. I use WinISD for port modeling, but for shelves it typically specs a little on the long side. That's actually OK, you can just make a removable shelf extension and cut a few trial panels until you get what you like.
        That is a fine speaker but it is out of stock and I just received this speaker: Dayton Audio DVC385-88
        I will be using 2 - 4"x18" port tubes. I will be using PVC pipe so I am not sure how to flare the inside part of the tube or if it is even necessary. Thanks for the replies.

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        • #5
          You can polish the inside of PVC by wiping it with lacquer thinner. Work quickly in single strokes with a soft brush. Smooth and shiny!

          When you say "flare the inside part" I'm guessing you want the portion inside the cabinet flared out like a funnel? Just chamfer bevel the inside of the rim. I've seen commercial ports with and without flared ends. I'm not sure it matters that much either but chamfering might make you feel better
          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

          "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
          You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by chunkitup View Post
            That is a fine speaker but it is out of stock and I just received this speaker: Dayton Audio DVC385-88
            I will be using 2 - 4"x18" port tubes. I will be using PVC pipe so I am not sure how to flare the inside part of the tube or if it is even necessary. Thanks for the replies.
            I wouldn't worry about fiddle faddle "flaring" those port tubes. Just assemble and enjoy. Your garage will be rockin! Just keep a good steel mesh grille on to keep critters out of the ports and flying tools out of the cone. For uses like these I install "hardware cloth" usually @ 1/4 or 3/8" mesh. You can cover it with grill cloth to make it look better.
            This isn't the future I signed up for.

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            • #7
              That stretched steel mesh stuff is great. Easy to paint and mount too. Commonly available and used on many commercial designs for these reasons. Just make sure the edges are well inside a front cabinet lip to avoid snagging.
              "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

              "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

              "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
              You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

              Comment


              • #8
                Yea I got a 15" round speaker grill from parts express. Never thought about keeping critters out of the port holes though. That is a good idea. I dont need a mouse making a home in the cabinet and chewing on my speaker although he would get a rude awakening when I fire it up!!
                I was going to do a 1/2" round over on the outside of the port where it meets the cab. I will see and hope that is good enough. I still have to make some dowel braces for the inside. I was going to do 1 for each 2 sides if that makes sense.
                Thanks guys and I am ordering a Crown XLS 1000 for the sub as we speak.
                Oh another quick question off the cab subject. Any suggestions on a mixer that I can use for TV, CD's, Instruments and my computer? I like playing along with prerecorded drum tracks and would love to run this thru the garage. And perhaps if a electronic drummer comes over and I get a few guys to practice as a band. Would love to mic it all up. I think 8 channels would be fine. Been looking at mackies but not sure what I really need.

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