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  • Gallien Krueger MB150e 112

    Hello All,

    Joined the forum and looked around a lot. As with all forums, great members and tons of good info. I have an issue I'll probe the masses for. I have an old (board says 1990) GK mb150e 112 that I've used heavily for years, but it's been put away for about 2 years since I sold my bass. However bought a new Fender bass and broke it out (no pun intended). I noted immediately that the speaker surround was toast. Ordered new speaker (8ohm from GK - exact replacement). I replaced the speaker but noted lots of dust on the boards. Bought CRC and cleaned out the (then popping) pots on the front controls and sprayed everything down well to clean it up before putting everything back together. I deliberately let it dry for about an hour before I put it back together and plugged everything in correctly (took pictures to be sure). Plug it in, turn her on and the speaker goes to full excursion and I notice a burning smell. Turn everything off quickly and take her back apart to note the large resistors on the board are toast. I replace them and try again...same issue. I've gleaned from reading here that a shorted transistor is likely to blame. My question is how did I screw up a transistor? Maybe in taking it apart, I exposed a soon-to-fail transistor just because the amp is 24 years old? A long shot, I know...anyway.
    #1. I'll research how to identify a blown transistor
    #2. Did I not wait long enough and somehow short the transistor (thereby causing subsequent resistor failure (in series it seems)) with the CRC cleaner that hadn't dried?
    #3. I'm reading to replace them in pairs, correct?
    #4. I'm building a bulb tester/current limiter as depicted on here (thanks for that by the way).
    #5. Does it matter if I use quick burning vs. slow burning fuses in the bussman fuses (8amp, 250v)?


    Thank you all in advance for your expertise/experiences/suggestions!

    -Dave

  • #2
    What is in the CRC?

    I vote the amp was still wet.

    At this point a 1 amp fuse will work as you are troubleshooting a severe fault.
    The 8 amp rating (slo blo) is when the amp is kicking out full power to a load (ie: speaker).

    Comment


    • #3
      isopropyl alcohol


      CRC Contact Cleaner, 12 oz., Aerosol Can - G3347687 at Zoro

      Comment


      • #4
        Welcome to the place.
        Originally posted by Dneel81 View Post
        #1. I'll research how to identify a blown transistor
        Really simple if you have a decent digital multimeter. Do you have one?
        Originally posted by Dneel81 View Post
        #2. Did I not wait long enough and somehow short the transistor (thereby causing subsequent resistor failure (in series it seems)) with the CRC cleaner that hadn't dried?
        What did you spray with the CRC cleaner, just the pots or the entire board?

        Originally posted by Dneel81 View Post
        #3. I'm reading to replace them in pairs, correct?
        If you are talking about the output transistors, then usually yes. But figure out what is wrong before you move ahead.

        Originally posted by Dneel81 View Post
        #4. I'm building a bulb tester/current limiter as depicted on here (thanks for that by the way).
        GK made a couple of different versions of your amp. If yours is one of the earlier ones it may still have the switch mode power supply which may not work well with the limiter.

        Originally posted by Dneel81 View Post
        #5. Does it matter if I use quick burning vs. slow burning fuses in the bussman fuses (8amp, 250v)?
        If it calls for a fast blow type only use a fast blow type. If it calls for a slow blow type then substituting a fast blow will probably work for testing, but should be replaced with the correct one.

        Before you get too deep into these repairs, try to get a copy of the schematic from GK. You need to figure out what section of your amp blew up, the power amp or the power supply. If you have the SMPS you will need to use extra care as there are really dangerous voltages available there.

        Comment


        • #5
          I do have a multimeter. I'll do that when I get home.
          CRC on everything, board, parts, 1/4 jacks.
          I can't get an answer at GK. I get Lonnie's voicemail and she's not returned my call x 3 days now...I'll keep at it.
          I'll stick with the slow blow fuses.
          Any tips for getting through to GK to get the schematic? I'm sure I'll need the serial number, right? Thanks!

          Comment


          • #6
            tried the engineering department and the man told me that Bang & Olufsen made the amp for the MB150e 112 and that they (B&O) will not share the diagram for proprietary reasons...this sound right? Sounds cuckoo to me but I'm ignorant, admittedly.

            Comment


            • #7
              There was a GK amp that used pre-made class-d power amp modules that were sold by B&O. If you amp is older, then I doubt that you have those in there.

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              • #8
                They were not using B&O boards in 1990.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Dneel81 View Post
                  tried the engineering department and the man told me that Bang & Olufsen made the amp for the MB150e 112 and that they (B&O) will not share the diagram for proprietary reasons...this sound right? Sounds cuckoo to me but I'm ignorant, admittedly.
                  No, that doesn't sound right. The guys at the engineering department have no idea what they are talking about. The Bang&Oluffsen modules are used in new amps: GK MB500, while you have an old version MB150, which has the power amp build of discreet components. Are you sure you asked for MB150 and not MB500?
                  MB150 is an old amp manufactured 20 years ago (or even more). They still have it on their web site: MB150 III Microbass Series III Owner's Manual | Gallien-KruegerGallien-Krueger
                  It seems that you have shorted transistors in the power amp, or problems with the power supply.
                  Here is the old amp: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/ampli...bass-combo-amp
                  and here is the new one: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/ampli...-bass-amp-head
                  The difference is visible, isn't it?

                  Mark

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you have a camera, can you post a pic of the amp opened up? Then we can see if it is the version with the power transformer or the SMPS one.
                    Once we know that it should not be too hard to find the correct schematic.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by g-one View Post
                      If you have a camera, can you post a pic of the amp opened up? Then we can see if it is the version with the power transformer or the SMPS one.
                      Once we know that it should not be too hard to find the correct schematic.


                      Will do when I get home and get the chance. Thank you.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks Mark. Appreciate it. Very possible he heard MB500...English was not his first language. Mine is from 1990, based on the board I see.

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                        • #13
                          MBE Series these are dated '91 and have both types of PSU (transformer and SMPS) supply schematics included
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by oc disorder View Post
                            MBE Series these are dated '91 and have both types of PSU (transformer and SMPS) supply schematics included


                            Thats what I have been waiting for. Thank you very much!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hopefully it did not damage your new speaker. Disconnect it and do not reconnect until the amp is repaired, and verified that there is no DC on the output.
                              Originally posted by Enzo
                              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                              Comment

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