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Thread: Orange drops or Mallory 150s in 5E3 build?

  1. #71
    Bent Member Chuck H's Avatar
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    I've bought both Teflon and silicone jacket wire "by the foot" for a couple of projects. Fun to work with. Nice to have no fear of shrink or fouling a lead with the tip of the iron. But so expensive!!! I decided that I'd be better off improving my soldering skills and paying better attention.

    I don't think even major amp brands that use PVC use plain PVC. The first lead wire I ever bought (some twenty five years ago?) was plain PVC and it was awful. I used it for two short mod projects and then replaced it.

    Did I mention irradiated PVC is damn fine stuff and cheap? Don't let the interwebs sell you on Teflon lead wire. It's not necessary in guitar amps.

    1 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

  2. #72
    Bent Member Chuck H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
    Yes, rules are made to be broken. For example I might melt a little fresh solder into a joint first to "wet" it. Then I can solder properly and the wet joint will take solder more easily.
    Sometimes, if a component is old and I'm in a hurry, rather than buff or clean the component lead I'll just melt a little flux core onto it. If it flows I know I'm good to go.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

  3. #73
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    You will find that your soldering will be 100% better with a temperature controlled soldering station rather than the 40 watt iron or 60 watt iron or whatever. Leaded solder is also much easier to work with. I usually pre-tin my tip with a little blob of solder then put that on the joint to help heat transfer quickly. If you can get a good mechanical joint before soldering that really helps too. Some of the old military tube equipment would have to be full power tested with no solder or very little solder in the unit, then after passing that test, they would put solder in to hold the parts in place. You can really only do that with terminal strips and turrets with the wires wrapped around them. If you try it with eyelets it doesn't work nearly as well.

    Greg

    4 Not allowed! Not allowed!

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