Does anyone make a footswitch like this?

[daz]

Maybe posting the user manual for the footpedal that you're using would also help.

I have no experience with newer Fender products. The footpedal for the modeling amp I have comes with a variety of button options, some which are 'Easter egg'-like, revealing their usefulness only after careful examination of the documents. I can use one button to turn on and off a programmable effect (boost, or OD for example) but only after pressing another button to unlock the hidden level. Once that's done I'm golden and can use the single button at will. But I have to set it up first, before I can use it. I'm hoping that your pedal may allow a similar kind of simple user programming.

I've read the manual and researched it all really well and know the thing's capabilities fully. It can't do what i want.

[Chuck H]

How about this....one SPDT switch (latching) and two 555 timers ICs (or indeed one duel 556 timer IC) configured as monostable circuits (the "output high" period is up to you to decide) and implement a very simple edge triggering circuit, connect the SPDT switch common (say...pole 2) to ground , connect pole 1 to the trigger of one 555 circuit and pole 3 to the trigger of the other 555 circuit and connected the outputs as required. You must use a latching switch is case the switch bounces from pole 1 to pole 3.

This might help to make sense, "http://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm#monostable", the edge triggering circuit is a little further down the page.

If switch bouncing is a issue, (on either pole), look up "SR flip flop switch debounce circuit" and connect "Q" to one 555 and "NOT Q" the the other 555.

I gave your post a "like" because accurate and comprehensive alternatives are important. As in "this is how you do it right so there's no possible problem." But if the switch timing lines up the mechanical circuit is eminently easier

[daz]

But if the switch timing lines up the mechanical circuit is eminently easier

Not to mention It's too involved. I really don't want to build a circuit and add a power supply for it and have to build it all onto the board etc etc. And all for the lack of a simple mechanical solution......Naaa, If i can't do it with a idea like that dual switch i'll just leave things as they are with the relay/pot box.

[Audiotexan]

Ok...read the majority of the thread...and before I lose the idea I have, here goes:

How about, since most digital effects combos these days allow for a continuous controller send/return (not sure about the Mustang -not familiar with it)...

Would it be possible that you could:

1. assign the continuous controller to "volume" in each patch
2. build a box that performs a similar function to a volume controller
3. except: in that box, use two pots (preset) to your vol. needs
4. incorporate a latching switch in the box between the pots.

voila! Two seperate volume levels on demand, via CC and works with all patches!

Or am I off my rocker?
/yes, pun intended. =P

[daz]

Been there. It has a $90 optional expression pedal that can be assigned to volume. But i want a switch, not a pedal. And building something....well, i have no idea how. The pedal is not a generic one and has fenders proprietary circuitry in it from what i'm told. Anyways, i already looked into that and saw nothing i could do. I did think to mod the circuit with a switch that would change the pedal's position and just use the guts of the pedal with a switch. But i'm not paying $90 to find out if it's possivble and fender doesn't have schematics of the pedal or amp that they share.

Ok...read the majority of the thread...and before I lose the idea I have, here goes:

How about, since most digital effects combos these days allow for a continuous controller send/return (not sure about the Mustang -not familiar with it)...

Would it be possible that you could:

1. assign the continuous controller to "volume" in each patch
2. build a box that performs a similar function to a volume controller
3. except: in that box, use two pots (preset) to your vol. needs
4. incorporate a latching switch in the box between the pots.

voila! Two seperate volume levels on demand, via CC and works with all patches!

Or am I off my rocker?
/yes, pun intended. =P

[Enzo]

Daz, my one channel or other channel thing was based on the assumption that you had a conventional amp circuit, not a computer based amp. it is always a good idea to provide make and model right up front. I agree, my scenario doesn't fit your Mustang.

A latching switch will not harm those momentary inputs, the pullup resistors are high in resistance so very little current flows. However, depending upon how the switch reading circuit is wired or the software that scans it, a "stuck" switch might confuse it. Only a quick experiment will tell you that. So it won't hurt it, but it might make it not work right. If you follow me. But it also could be very happy that way.

I have discussed non-repairable before. the ONLY thing non-repairable means is that Fender (or whoever) will not pay shops in the field to service them under warranty. It does not refer to the circuitry or actual repairability. I don't have the Mustang in my files. MAke sure which version you have, like Mustang II versus the original. Fender only puts the most requested schematics on the web site out of hundreds of models. CALL them and ask for the schematic. Worst thing could happen is they say No.

As to your issue, what we want to do is make one button "toggle" between two patches. There may or may not be a way.

[daz]

Well, as i said several posts back, i DID try it and it works fine but i was worried the contacts remaining latched might damage something and chuck confirmed that might be possible so i wasn't going to use it. But if you say it won't i'll take your word and do it that way. I temporarily hooked it up with a SPST latching switch. Each of the switches shares a common so i only needed 3 poles, a common and a wire from each switch. It worked great with no "circuit confusion", tho i only tried it for a few seconds, switching it maybe 20 times. So maybe after being latched for a while the chance of confusion might increase....ya think?

Daz, my one channel or other channel thing was based on the assumption that you had a conventional amp circuit, not a computer based amp. it is always a good idea to provide make and model right up front. I agree, my scenario doesn't fit your Mustang.

A latching switch will not harm those momentary inputs, the pullup resistors are high in resistance so very little current flows. However, depending upon how the switch reading circuit is wired or the software that scans it, a "stuck" switch might confuse it. Only a quick experiment will tell you that. So it won't hurt it, but it might make it not work right. If you follow me. But it also could be very happy that way.

I have discussed non-repairable before. the ONLY thing non-repairable means is that Fender (or whoever) will not pay shops in the field to service them under warranty. It does not refer to the circuitry or actual repairability. I don't have the Mustang in my files. MAke sure which version you have, like Mustang II versus the original. Fender only puts the most requested schematics on the web site out of hundreds of models. CALL them and ask for the schematic. Worst thing could happen is they say No.

As to your issue, what we want to do is make one button "toggle" between two patches. There may or may not be a way.

[Enzo]

My potential for confusion is not born of how long, it is born out of knowledge of how SOME systems read their switches. SOme input switch circuits are matrixed, rows an columns like a calendar. If you stuck a switch, then it reads closed no matter which column is being "strobed." So if one of your Thursdays is stuck, the system can read that as all the Thursdays are on. Sorta like that.

Even though I used to teach pinball systems, and that is how all the playfield contacts work, for that matter, so does your computer keyboard, I still learned the hard way. I had a little drum machine I wanted to modify for a client to take remote button inputs. I built the interface, and each and every button worked like a charm. Then I started a pattern...chaos. Wwhen more than three drum sounds played at once the system choked. I should have known better.

[daz]

My potential for confusion is not born of how long

So can i take that as meaning that since it worked perfectly after clicking it about 20 times it will surely work?

[Chuck H]

So can i take that as meaning that since it worked perfectly after clicking it about 20 times it will surely work?

I already mentioned earlier (and Enzo seconded it, I think) that using a latch switch in place of a momentary may cause logic confusion under specific circumstances. You might be in the middle of a song and "something" will shift a tad and the amp could just switch by itself. Probably not, but don't be surprised if it happens. If you feel comfortable trusting it go ahead. It's much simpler and it's probably fine. Without knowing everything about the logic circuit (and I never could, even with a schematic) I can't possibly endorse it. No more than if you had jumped from an airplane, caught a freak updraft, landed on a haystack and asked "Hey! I just had the most incredible experience of my life! It worked when I did it last time. Should I do it again?" Well, not exactly like that. But I think you get the point

[daz]

Since we are now down to this, may as well throw some things i haven't mentioned yet into the mix that may be telling as to how likely this could work with a latching switch. I didn't mention this earlier because i wanted to avoid confusion but at this point i believe it's important. I actually have 2 switch boxes. The 2 button that comes with the amp and has no LCD or led's, and a 4 button that has the LCD and led indicators. Each has it's own jack on the amp and each uses a 2 conductor cable, that is, tip/sleeve. Both are programmable at the amp to do various functions. Some functions can be used with either footswitch. The function i will be using with the 2 button to do this is a function that assigns each button to any 2 patches i choose that are assigned in the amp's utility settings. The 4 button switch will be assigned to totally different functions, stomp box on/of, modulation on/off, and delay on/off.

Don't know if that helps to answer the question whether or not it is likely to cause confusion or not, (of the amp, not you ) but there ya go.

[Jazz P Bass]

Not too sure if this is pertinant, but a lot of current microcontrollers (ie: what the switches are inputting to) can use up to three different signal levels as an inputto one pin.

Each switch has a slightly different voltage potential that the UC can recognize as a valid input.

That is one way of using a two conductor cable for motre than one input.

[daz]

Well, I'm going to pass on this and just try it with the 2 button scenario. really don't want to but i already started my pedalboard remodel. Gutting the fender foot switched and using their circuit board but taking wires out from the switches and LED's to a 4 button footswitch which will take their place. Mainly because the fender ones have the switches so close together it's unusable. The first time i gigged with it i kept hitting other buttons. Plus i can take only the functions i want from the 4 and 2 button footswitches and have only those. It'll be a long tedious job with lots of fabricating, but it'll be worth it in the end. And if i can figure a way to get that patch function working with 1 button i can always mod it later. But i don't want to risk the possibility of circuit confusion in the middle of a gig.