Polepiece for Supro string-through pickup?

[Lollar Jason]

the replacement poles werent stainless were they? try the allthread like I mentioned but I have found black oxide works fine- could be a different alloy than what I get though. If I was replacing select poles in an old one I would use allthread and slot the ends.
Other than that Like I said the one magnet version doesnt work very well. Call my shop and order a set of new magnets, mine are usually stronger unlike the really inconsistant originals so you really have to replace both. They are somewhat expensive because they all custom made and have to be machined with the two slots but youll have a kick ass pickup after that- if you do that replace the poles with all black oxide or allthread and that will be the end of it. Maybe check to make sure your pickup reads about 6K. be carefull pulling poles in and out- the original bobbins are made quite fragile where the poles pass through

[bluzmn]

I put the original (broken) polepieces back in; they'll probably be a PITA to adjust, but I should only have to do it once or twice. I'm now able to get a pretty uniform volume across all the strings and still adjust the polepieces high enough to get a pretty hot sound out of the pickup. I can't decide whether or not to try the set screws from Fasteners Plus; black oxide is merely a coating so there is no way of knowing whether or not they are the same alloy.

[Stratz]

I can't decide whether or not to try the set screws from Fasteners Plus; black oxide is merely a coating so there is no way of knowing whether or not they are the same alloy.

Only one way to find out

[Joe Gwinn]

I can't decide whether or not to try the set screws from Fasteners Plus; black oxide is merely a coating so there is no way of knowing whether or not they are the same alloy.

The black oxide fastener alloy is a medium-carbon steel, probably 1035 to 1045, hardened for toughness and strength.

Stainless steel is a different critter. Most kinds of stainless steel are not magnetic. Only hardenable stainless is magnetic, like 440C.


As others have suggested, it's best to just try the various kinds of fastener, and see which one is best.

[big_teee]

There are all kinds of 6-32 screws.
I would be tempted to just buy a steel screw, cut the head off and file a slot in the top of it.
Or take your screw and file a slot in the other end.
If you want it stained or darker, after cutting and filing, put some bluing, or acid on it.
Sounds like an easy enough fix.
Or if you're content with the one you have keep it.
However, looking at the broke head would naw on me.
I would have to fix that.
GL,
T

[Stratz]

Stainless steel is a different critter. Most kinds of stainless steel are not magnetic. Only hardenable stainless is magnetic, like 440C.

Thats interesting about the stainless steel Joe. Maybe there's some good tonal qualities to the magnetic SS grades.

Gibson listed the specs for their 2015 pickups and on their "Gabby, 59 burst special edition" they list the slug material as 416 Grade Stainless Steel. They are both Alnico 3, bridge and neck.

[big_teee]

I looked at a lot at the 2015 gibson pickup specs.
Some of them look real questionable.
Pickup specs over half-way down the page.
http://www2.gibson.com/Products/Elec...-Les-Paul.aspx
The 59, they show both the neck and bridge the same at 5200-5590 for screw and slug.
Yet they show the neck at 8k, and the bridge at 8.5k.
That is a big offset between the bobbins, and not sure the 5590 will fit.
I've tried 8k on a neck bucker, and I always got mud.
Maybe that is where the stainless screws come in?
T

[Joe Gwinn]

That's interesting about the stainless steel Joe. Maybe there's some good tonal qualities to the magnetic SS grades.

Gibson listed the specs for their 2015 pickups and on their "Gabby, 59 burst special edition" they list the slug material as 416 Grade Stainless Steel. They are both Alnico 3, bridge and neck.

You can get 416 in small quantities from Speedy Metals:

Speedy Metals Information for 416 Stainless Steel

More generally, the 400-series stainless steel alloys are magnetic to varying degrees, while the 300-series alloys are not magnetic. Although some 300-series alloys become weakly magnetic when mechanically bent or stretched.

[big_teee]

You can get 416 in small quantities from Speedy Metals:

Speedy Metals Information for 416 Stainless Steel

More generally, the 400-series stainless steel alloys are magnetic to varying degrees, while the 300-series alloys are not magnetic. Although some 300-series alloys become weakly magnetic when mechanically bent or stretched.

I wonder what the advantage of running Stainless for poles would be?
Or is this something that gibson is showing that they can do that others can't?
Snake Oil and mirrors.
Also if it is a new gimmick, why would they choose to use it on a classic 59?
Don't think they used SS on a real 59, in 59?
T

[Joe Gwinn]

I wonder what the advantage of running Stainless for poles would be.

My guess is that it was cheaper, because plating (to prevent rust) would not be necessary.

[bluzmn]

At this point, it's a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"; as Jason Lollar said, I could damage the bobbins while taking the polepieces in and out. I'm lucky I didn't do any damage this time, with the way I had to torque the pole pieces to get them out. I don't own any of the tools Jason Lollar mentions; if I did, I'd just level off the tops of the broken polepieces and cut a new slot.
@big_teee - Yeah, normally looking at that broken head would gnaw on me, too, but when the pickup is fully assembled you can't see it, so I can ignore it