Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Marshall Plexi type 1x12 combo cab Qs.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Marshall Plexi type 1x12 combo cab Qs.

    Hi-

    Ive been asked to build for a friend. Built a few f'jointed 3/4"pine / tweed 'fenders' fine but different & in comparison a simpler design to these.

    1) The facia panel above the baffle: how is this attatched?
    2) I notice orig shell looks to be 1/2" (ply then).. how was/ is this jointed?
    3) Are modern repros 3/4" as a rule?
    4) How is the piping set into tolex on top?

    Thanks SC.

  • #2
    Anyone?

    Comment


    • #3
      Apart from the horizontal chassis mounting board, I think Marshall cab construction is fairly similar to the AC30, so see http://music-electronics-forum.com/t4258/#post32945
      I think the piping is just a push fit into a suitable slot; best to experiment with some spare materials for the slot dimensions, but probably start with about 1/8" wide and 3/16" deep.

      Also Geofex http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/voxamp/voxcab.htm
      Last edited by pdf64; 07-30-2015, 09:46 PM.
      My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by pdf64 View Post
        Apart from the horizontal chassis mounting board, I think Marshall cab construction is fairly similar to the AC30, so see http://music-electronics-forum.com/t4258/#post32945
        I think the piping is just a push fit into a suitable slot; best to experiment with some spare materials for the slot dimensions, but probably start with about 1/8" wide and 3/16" deep.

        Also Geofex http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/voxamp/voxcab.htm
        pdf64- thanks! terrific info, t'interweb at its best (been away for a while/ just got back seen your reply).

        The slot I understand a gap left in one butt-joint section edge.. but how the tolex is applied over this 'trench', then recessed, in order to then fit the beading in without either cutting the tolex along the trench or pressing in (it wouldnt be pliable enough to push in, or be able to hold the beading in next to it) is still perplexing.

        I still cant acsertian how the spkr board and its top tolexed facia section are made-as-one. I can see its likely a one-piece front with these 2 areas on one front section.. but how even with the info above is not clear.

        Does anyone know if 3/4" plywood is ever seen fingerjointed in any amp cab anywhere?

        gratefully, SC

        Comment


        • #5
          I think I've seen SF TR cabs that have fingerjointed 3/4" ply, and also think that's how my 60s AC30 is built (I'll check at the band room next week).
          I've no experience at covering cabs etc; I thought that the piping is a push fit, if the tolex has to be cut then so be it.
          Perhaps USA tolex type materials are too thick for the standard piping technique, with English builders using skinnier coverings?

          Consider ignoring the malware warnings and checking / asking over at TAG, eg see The Amp Garage :: View topic - Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial
          My band:- http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingBand

          Comment


          • #6
            Good point, marshall stuff (now) tends to be thinner indeed. I guess cut the toloex down the trench then & s'how just strong-glue the piping in/ press down: so then trench has to be perfect width for a firm coupling.. its an absolute headache this top piping detail afaict.

            F-jointed ply eh? Ive never seen any ply cab uncovered so Ive never seen this joint.. thought prob the fingers would splinter cutting them being layers of thin wood together, esp if 1/4" fingers.

            I cant risk the link- Im still using my trustyXP on an oldschool square screen! thx all the same pdf64.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Sea Chief View Post
              Good point, marshall stuff (now) tends to be thinner indeed. I guess cut the toloex down the trench then & s'how just strong-glue the piping in/ press down: so then trench has to be perfect width for a firm coupling.. its an absolute headache this top piping detail afaict.

              F-jointed ply eh? Ive never seen any ply cab uncovered so Ive never seen this joint.. thought prob the fingers would splinter cutting them being layers of thin wood together, esp if 1/4" fingers.

              I cant risk the link- Im still using my trustyXP on an oldschool square screen! thx all the same pdf64.
              I'd opt to do without the piping and its installation headaches, it adds nothing to the tone, just a "looks" feature. And finger-jointing ply is folly unless you have top-quality ply like Baltic void free 13-ply birch. Doing it with ordinary A/C ply, not much of a "joint" when you have cheezy splintery wood with holes randomly distributed in it, not suitable for speaker cabs in any case. Although that hasn't stopped some amp companies.

              Simplify, simplify. If you're going to build, keep it simple. What counts is tone, no rattling, and keeping all 10 fingers & sanity intact. Or scan your Craigs list & similar, keep some cash handy and seek out an affordable used factory-made cab with all that fancy-dan piping, frills, furbelows and gingerbread if you must have them.

              XP here too, may be switching to Linux or Ubuntu or Lubuntu soon. Nothing wrong with a square screen. My new "letterbox" screen makes photos of skinny people look fat, and those that start out wide now look like circus sideshow escapees, I don't know it's much of an advantage.

              How's your music critic neighbor? You haven't mentioned him lately, has he moved to Bannockburn or the Falklands to get away from the noise?
              This isn't the future I signed up for.

              Comment


              • #8
                Ive been asked to do the piping detail thats the trouble.. like anything (shellac for eg) fairly easy once youve done a good few times & know the right gap/ right glue/ whether to cut tolex/ how to use the piping 'tail' around edges/ how to fasten underside w'out it pulling up-out the slot etc etc. This is one reason Ive avoided marshall cab designs up to now tbh. An utter pain in the ass.

                So glad myXP still works fine- was worried when 'the end' was nigh.. but afaict normal service here. I -hate- the widescreen computer screens too (the most stupid design Ive ever seen bar none IMHO) so I wouldnt change this 12 yr old old used £75 lappy for any fancy applecrap or fancyschmanz wide gigabite schmigabite affair. I think Ive got 560kb only! & I couldnt give a f**k :-). Actually Im the same with tellys.. I will cry when my nice silver glass-screened philips crt tv got phut, & Ill scour the earth for another rather than buying any flat mumbo piece of crap, with their teenager-spkrs built in their sides, ugly monolith look, flimsy built. Urgh. The 2nd most hideous design today.

                Do carry on. :-) SC

                Comment

                Working...
                X