There's a similar thread here http://music-electronics-forum.com/t40701/ where the discussion is about reducing the acoustic coupling between neck and body to improve sustain and tone.
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Originally posted by eschertron View PostThere's a similar thread here http://music-electronics-forum.com/t40701/ where the discussion is about reducing the acoustic coupling between neck and body to improve sustain and tone.
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So there we are- a very successful job all in all. Alot of tinkering with thin shims here & there for alignment.. & neck on for good. Yiu can see the gap in the 2nd pic.. but its fine really, not aware playing it. Plays damn well considering I havent done TRod yet, the nut seems high at 1st fret ("Earvana" pro fitted.. apparantly), or got optimum saddle height yet.
The join wasn't perfect, as when drilling the 2 new holes slightly overlapping the old the bit slipped from the new into the old hole.. so not a vg join with the 2 screws into these 2 now enlarged holes/ but tight enough ~maybe. The other 2 were ok but I maybe went a fraction wide with the bit at 3.5mm (should have used the 3mm and driven the screws in hard with a tad of soap for a very tight fit).
Huge thanks to you guys- I would have made a dogs dinner of this without invaluable help on here. Not a bad looker? esp for all the 4 main bits from different gtrs make it only £140 spent inc new gotoh tuners & new a'market alnico p'ups.
So laptop running perfectly, and the frankenstrat turns out a peach! really quite fab! cheers chaps, SC.
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Originally posted by Sea Chief View PostSo laptop running perfectly, and the frankenstrat turns out a peach!
While the laptop is running make a system repair disc and make sure it will boot from it, then if it crashes again you should be able to boot from the repair disc and fix it without having to reload the whole operating system.
Go to Start > Control Panel > System and Security > Backup and Restore. The repair disc option is at the top left.Last edited by Dave H; 12-06-2015, 11:11 AM.
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Cheers again Dave H. Couldnt have done it properly without patient folks like your goodself, elipsey & Paleo Pete etc.
Most sunburst are a bit MEH to me, even US fenders.. but occasionally one pings out as special/ the fade & colours, (light) weight, alder grain, soft contours & deep nitroC etc all gelling together: this is one of those. Its the nicest strat body Ive ever played regardless of it not being a one-piece. Its up there with the best strats Ive seen or played in shops worth many many hundreds. And its only an ebay £30 used squier. Amazing. Even a collector freind of mine with old martins, gretches & £3k fenders was hankering over it.
Thanks- I'll have a go at that backup info (actaully Ma said that error mssg on start up has been there for ages/ way before it died.. so Im leaving that as it/ seems no issue).
SC
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I think so too on the strat, but I like a basic car colours on the smaller cheaper (or not so now) mustang, duosonic.
Most sunbursts I see have the dark edge cropping in too much really taking over the amber colour, & hides the alder or ash grain. MIJ ones esp bad at this I find.
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Originally posted by Dave H View Post
I think I used cocktail sticks (they are hardwood) and Evo Stik Resin W on the two I did. I tapped three (?) sticks into each hole (the glue will fill any small gaps) and let it dry overnight before trimming and sanding it flush. Put some masking tape on the drill bit as a depth gauge. You don't want to go and drill through the fingerboard.
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Just dont do what I did- I used a legth of doewl which turned out to be very soft.. not a softwood (you could get a softewwod dowel legth 8 ft long) but a soft hardwood. If that makes sense!
Use cocktail sticks- main reason: bloody hard wood, even if job is slightly compromised by the gaps 3 or so will have in a ~4mm hole, you'll still be able to use it structurally. Mine needs redoing tbh on two holes/ I might well drill out a good 10mm bastard hole and get a very hard fat f**k off dowel in there, then drill into the side of this c**t twds its edge.
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