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fizzy distortion at nearly any level-- AB763

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  • fizzy distortion at nearly any level-- AB763

    Hey all,

    I'm looking for help to find the source of a real bad buzz in a Deluxe Reverb Reissue circa 93-95.

    It is not a noise or hum present without input or even with a 1kHz test signal. It used to be so subtle (a few years ago) that I thought it was rattling something in the cabinet, the speaker or something in the room. But it is now very prominent on top of a guitar signal at all but the lowest volume and pick attack. It begins at first attack and rides through the decay of the note(s), swirling a bit.

    A few years ago I replaced the speaker. No change. I don't play out so I just lived with it. But now I have taken up this hobby of herding electrons for sound with the help of this forum, Randall Aiken's site, Merlin Blencowe's books and Doug Hoffman's site/forum/store. My circuit theory is way rusty but I have a 25 year old unused electrical engineering degree (I own/run a bakery/bar), a scope and multimeter and I know how to be safe. But I am very new in this fun game, so have mercy.

    As the amp is over 20 years old, I thought changing the filter caps (then all electrolytics) could do it. No. Also not the tubes.

    I have watched the signal with a scope through all stages (with 1kHz test sine and guitar) and it seems fine and predictable until the plates of the output tubes where the signal gets very jagged in a fractal-looking way as I increase the volume pot. Either channel, NFB connected or not.

    Power supply seems okay though high. B+ (to OT tap) is at 437V with ballpark 1-2V p-p ripple. Z (to screen resistors) 437V. Y (to PI load resistors) 355V. X (to preamp load resistors) 300V. C- (to power tube bias pot) -50V. Bias test point set to -37 (schematic test conditions).

    DC at 6v6s: Grids -36V. Screens 310/314V. Plates 437V. Cathodes 4mV.

    Strange to me #1: Though I've read around here that the output transformers rarely just go bad without some user help (I don't believe that I have ever turned on without the speaker plugged in) I am hoping that is so I can replace it and solve this. I have not de-soldered any OT connections yet. The primarys to tap read 199 ohms, primary to primary 398. When I test any connection to ground the meter fluctuates, usually starting around 15M-20M then counting down all the way to about 50K then going back up to the high starting point. Secondary to secondary is near zero. Again, while connected.

    Strange to me #2: I put in bias test points (from power tube cathodes to test point, through 1 ohm resistors, to ground test point, back to their pcb ground point) and the current draw of the 6v6s is at 4mA. Adjusting bias pot gets only to max of less than 8mA. Some old tubes that were run way long before I changed them read 6/7.8 mA with the bias test point at -37V).

    Should there be any DC readable at the grids of the phase inverter? 55v? The waveforms out of the PI seem to look fine, with just a slight imbalance. DC at the plates 221/226V.

    I hope something here can help someone flick on a lightbulb for me.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Originally posted by electron obvious View Post
    Strange to me #2: I put in bias test points (from power tube cathodes to test point, through 1 ohm resistors, to ground test point, back to their pcb ground point) and the current draw of the 6v6s is at 4mA. Adjusting bias pot gets only to max of less than 8mA.
    Seems that you have done everything that you should have, filter caps, tubes, voltage tests, etc.

    The idle current draw of the 6V6's seems too low, are you certain of the value of the cathode resistors that you have installed?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
      ......The idle current draw of the 6V6's seems too low, are you certain of the value of the cathode resistors that you have installed?
      That^^^^^^. Bias is way low. Crossover distortion?
      "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

      Comment


      • #4
        Bias test points: yes two 0.5 watt 1% resistors--I bought four and chose the closest two with my so-so multimeter. They tested fine before and after install.

        Depending if you take max dissipation as 12 or 14 watts, the 70% idle current should be 19.22 or 22.43 mA, respectively. I did raise grid stoppers stoppers significantly (from 1.5k to 47k--reading the valve wizards book) but the grid of the power tubes are still at -36V. This problem preceded that move and was no better or worse after. Thought you should know.

        The other strange: my multimeter may have been wonky but even though I got those countdown readings several times, a minute ago I measured the OT leads- primary's same, normal. But all leads to ground now read large, normal- except secondary to secondary was still zero, speaker plugged in or no.

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm wondering if you don't have a bad or intermittent ground connection somewhere. Check all of your ground connections. Tighten all ground nuts, etc. Check the speaker jacks for proper grounding.
          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

          Comment


          • #6
            This may sound kooky, but it may be a leaky cap or the dreaded conductive circuit board fouling a preamp stage bias. Look for DC on preamp grids under test. Check preamp bias voltages with the amp at rest.

            EDIT: Never mind. I ran with AB763 and didn't acknowledge that this is a RI amp. Neither of the above are likely to apply.
            Last edited by Chuck H; 02-17-2016, 01:11 AM.
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by electron obvious View Post
              The other strange: my multimeter may have been wonky but even though I got those countdown readings several times, a minute ago I measured the OT leads- primary's same, normal. But all leads to ground now read large, normal- except secondary to secondary was still zero, speaker plugged in or no.
              The primary readings to ground are being controlled by the filter caps. The slow rising or falling readings are the filter caps charging or discharging through your meter.

              The secondary winding is so short that most meters will have a hard time reading it accurately. One side of the secondary winding is connected to ground, so any reading to ground will basically read as a short.

              Comment


              • #8
                How do you get from 437V at the screen supply to 310V at the screens?
                Open screen resistors or a bad connection?
                That's certainly going to kill the idle current.
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                Comment


                • #9
                  I am starting to seriously doubt the accuracy of test equipment here.
                  "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I think those bias test resistors should be pulled and checked. Since the problem started small and then got worse I'm confused. The bias current straight up way too low and the amp is likely suffering from crossover distortion. We need to find out why the power tubes aren't drawing current.
                    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yes, it wouldn't hurt to test them. I don't see a need to pull them, though. Without the tube conducting (amp off) they are just connected to the cathode which is hanging in air. Agreed on the crossover distortion for sure.
                      Last edited by The Dude; 02-17-2016, 01:27 AM.
                      "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                        Yes, it wouldn't hurt to test them. I don't see a need to pull them, though. Without the tube conducting (amp off) they are just connected to the cathode which is hanging in air.
                        Right! Just pull the tube and test. Be sure to look for the decimal point... or the "k"
                        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
                          We need to find out why the power tubes aren't drawing current.
                          His screen voltage is very low.
                          Originally posted by Enzo
                          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by g1 View Post
                            His screen voltage is very low.
                            Oh,......I missed that. We might wanna check the screen resistors, too! Something definitely whacky there.
                            "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You've definitely got something there. I mistakenly installed 470k instead of 470 ohm. Thank you.

                              I'm not sure that will solve my preceding buzz problem but I'll have to order the correct ones before returning for this saga.

                              Would low screen voltage / low current mess with the wave and cause such fizzing?

                              Would a bum OT continue to operate for years with only added fizzyness?

                              I hear a sweet tone under there.

                              Comment

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